DK Jr - MOLDY BARN FIND edition ... SAFETY & where to begin?

bustin' out the drill was/is gonna be my last resort ... i'm hoping some sagely arcade restoration guru has some kinda trick/gimmick to make it easier

I had something similar and I ended up holding the nut with pliers and drilled the head of the bolt. I flattened the top with a file and made a pilot hole with a smaller bit. The second bit needs to be slightly bigger than the bolt and the head comes right off.
 
quick silly question ... how the HELLLLLL do you remove these nuts that are rusted on? turning the nut just turns the bolt, and there's nothing on the top of the CP to grab onto since the bolt top is so acute/close to the CP:

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Mike sells those, so you can sacrifice it. Spray some liquid wrench or WD40 whatever you have on the bolt. Take a Dremmel with cutting disk and cut a trench in the top of the bolt so you can use a screwdriver to hold it while you torque the nut off the other side.
 
thats tough, i usually use a tiger torch, or soak it in WD-40. but i don't have any wood Nintendo panels, only the metal ones. You could end up damaging the wood.

a dremmel and some vice grips??
 
How about this? You shoot it with WD-40 and let it soak in for a few. Grab the very end of the threaded side, with vice grips and unscrew the nut as far as you can. That should give you enough room for a hacksaw or other tool of your choosing.
 
How about this? You shoot it with WD-40 and let it soak in for a few. Grab the very end of the threaded side, with vice grips and unscrew the nut as far as you can. That should give you enough room for a hacksaw or other tool of your choosing.

That is what I would recommend.
 
Rep for tackling this daunting restore. Don't know that I would brave that cab.
 
DAY 3

just hit second round of vinegar for the day and been sitting in the sun since around 8am.

vacuumed out the bottom. it's cleaning up, but i'm still wondering if i need something more hardcore than 3-times-a-day vinegar drenchings and 10+ hours in direct sunlight. this thing's gotta be safe for indoors.

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That is what I would recommend.
+2 except use penetrating oil instead of WD-40. Unless the threads are damaged this should work.

+1 If they are use a dremel to to score the head so you can put a flat head screwdriver in it to hold it still while wrenching the other side.
 
i've read that bleach simply sits on the surface of plywood

and regardless of what i use, i just wanna make sure whatever i use kills the funk long-term so this is safe for a home.

still haven't found anything definitive online or even here (maybe i missed something?)

Is there something wrong with using straight bleach?
 
I used bleach on pacman cabinet similar to yours...and I sprayed it several times..initially just letting it sit for 30 minutes at time to get the heavy top layers as I wiped it out with old rags....but last few applications I left sit for hours and very last just let it dry out in there..and it came out super clean....just saying...wood is porous that isn't protected by stain or some other protectant so the bleach like most things is going to soak into the wood eventually...I'd rather have cab smell like bleach..than vinegar anyway..:D You have gotten a majority of the stuff off the bottom and I'm betting Bleach would do the trick to finish the rest of that left over mildew / mold.
 
thanks man ... at the end of the day, i don't care what i use, as long as the mold is either dead or 100% ineffective. not sure what my post-restore plans are for the cabinet, and i gotta make sure wherever it ends up long-term that it's completely safe

this is day 3 of sitting in the direct sun all day, and the air is nice and dry ... temps are mid-to-high 70s. i'm still not done with the cleaning phase of this thing, but i think i've got a good start on it :)

I used bleach on pacman cabinet similar to yours...and I sprayed it several times..initially just letting it sit for 30 minutes at time to get the heavy top layers as I wiped it out with old rags....but last few applications I left sit for hours and very last just let it dry out in there..and it came out super clean....just saying...wood is porous that isn't protected by stain or some other protectant so the bleach like most things is going to soak into the wood eventually...I'd rather have cab smell like bleach..than vinegar anyway..:D You have gotten a majority of the stuff off the bottom and I'm betting Bleach would do the trick to finish the rest of that left over mildew / mold.
 
holy crap i woulda never thought of that actually, thanks man!

damn that would've saved me hundreds of hours in the past lol

+1 If they are use a dremel to to score the head so you can put a flat head screwdriver in it to hold it still while wrenching the other side.
 
A page back, Wondercade said,
Mike sells those, so you can sacrifice it. Spray some liquid wrench or WD40 whatever you have on the bolt. Take a Dremmel with cutting disk and cut a trench in the top of the bolt so you can use a screwdriver to hold it while you torque the nut off the other side.

Just pointing that out :)
 
ElectricDreamz, good on you for attempting to rescue the poor derelict. Its not Zombie Moon Patrol, but Hazmat Dk3 is a close call.

I'd re-iterate that you should use a good filter dust mask, spend the $8, you don't want to fsck up your lungs if you could avoid it.

I had similar mildew type stuff in my Outrun Turbo Mini, but not as bad as yours. I wiped it down with Chlorox wipes for the thick stuff, then used Concrobium.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UVGHQK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good for the bathroom walls too. Stops mold/mildew from growing. Doesn't get rid of the stains though.

I did a wipe down with a diluted bleach solution for that. Sprayed on concrobium again and let it dry.

The smell, though, was tough to get rid of. I eventually had some cans of espresso coffee (Bustelo!) that past its date, but sealed and dry. I dumped that into the bottom of the cabinet. Left it there for some weeks, and then vacuumed it up. All good.

Definitely re-cut and transplant all the stuff on the power block to a new piece of plywood.

Best of luck! :)
 
After all is said and done, hang one of these deodorizers inside to give it that true "arcade smell". :)

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you doing that with a rattle can? while i get the idea of the clear coat, do you know if it actually helps prevent any kinda evil from coming out/getting back into the wood?

I'd finish with a bleach wipe and then seal it with clearcoat. I plan on doing that to mine. Just a satin clear.
 
Following this thread closely as I have a haz mat pin I'm going to be dealing with when the weather finally turns.
 
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