Dim monitor when using VGA on 60-in-1

Lukenatme

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I just bought a 60-in-1 in a JAMMA'ed Galaga. The person who built it kept it simple: JAMMA harness, power supply, board, monitor so there's not too many unrelated variables here. The chassis looks like a Jenn-Sinn or something similar. The only brand label on it reads "Action Chassis". It is connected with a standard VGA cable to the 60-in-1. The brightness and contrast are maxed out in the monitor's on-screen controls, plus I have tried tweaking the adjustments on the flyback. There are no other pots that can be adjusted and the lone fuse on the chassis is good. Is this video amplifier the next best option?

http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

Am I going to have to do the slicing and dicing that it says is required, or is that not applicable here?
 
Don't think you should need a video amp for that. I've used my 60-1 both ways (arcade monitor and computer monitor). Both were bright with plenty of room left on the knobs.

I also have a Matshuita 202 connected directly to a pc (spliced a vga cable) and it looks great.

I would try the monitor in another cab or with a different board.
 
I've tried 3 different 60-in-1 boards, two were from the seller, one I bought a few weeks ago from Nixs. The machine was sold as having this issue--the seller thought it was a board problem, but they seemed to know less about them than I do, but it could've been an act.
 
After 3 boards, and same result, I would start checking voltages on the monitor and then cap it. I'm no expert so hopefully someone else will chime in.
 
You have a monitor that probably needs to be recapped or freshened up.

BTW - when you say the brightness and contrast are maxed, I'd like some clarification. Some VGA's have on-screen menu controls, and some have remote or on-chassis pots. Plus the flyback will have it's own screen brightness control. You have tried all of these (if available) options?
 
You have a monitor that probably needs to be recapped or freshened up.

BTW - when you say the brightness and contrast are maxed, I'd like some clarification. Some VGA's have on-screen menu controls, and some have remote or on-chassis pots. Plus the flyback will have it's own screen brightness control. You have tried all of these (if available) options?

This just has an on-screen brightness/contrast/various other vertical and horizontal adjustments, no remote adjustment board. It also has 3 dials on the flyback: focus, screen, and an unmarked dial (what would that be?), arranged in a triangle (the dials aren't in a vertical line). The on-screen brightness and contrast are at 100, the bar is full and cannot be increased further. I have also played with the 3 dials on the flyback. They aren't maxed out because the best picture I could get is about 75% of each dial being turned all the way up.

I guess the next step is to post some pictures of the chassis so I can have a positive ID for a cap kit.
 
turn the brightness and contrast down to 50, turn up the flyback until its as bright as possible without fading or retrace, then adjust the brightness and contrast up as necessary.

if that doesn't work, try doing the factory reset in the monitor from the menu, then adjust it...
 
turn the brightness and contrast down to 50, turn up the flyback until its as bright as possible without fading or retrace, then adjust the brightness and contrast up as necessary.

if that doesn't work, try doing the factory reset in the monitor from the menu, then adjust it...

Still not bright enough to be playable. It kinda looks like the colors need to be turned up since the screen looks washed out, but I don't see any R/G/B pots.
 
Still not bright enough to be playable. It kinda looks like the colors need to be turned up since the screen looks washed out, but I don't see any R/G/B pots.

those will be digital too. might be labeled as "Color Gain"
 
Hook up a standard PC LCD to the multi board and ensure the boards output is good. I would assume it is.
If you have a digital menu you'll have an option to factory reset that monitor. Try it.
As Mod says you probably need to recap it but without pictures to identify what chassis you have "which would also help others further trouble shoot your issue" you'll have to make a cap list instead of ordering a premade cap kit from someone else.
 
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