Dig Dug Cocktail Needs CPR

You have failed to meet the 2 out of 3 "Knowns" criteria. Meaning that you need 2 out of 3 of the following to be known good in order to fix your problem.

1. Power supply / Power Brick
2. Game Board / Boardset
3. Monitor

In your case you have multiple problems, which make it very difficult to assist you with as some of these problems overlap and run together.

Your only known good is currently your Power supply / Power Brick. You need a second known good in order to not end up pulling your hair out to fix the 3rd problem.

I guarantee that you have a Game Board problem. The "squeal" as you call it, is an error tone. Much easier to diagnose if you have a working monitor.

Your monitor definitely has an issue. The HOT is fine, from what I can tell. Suspect the Regulator is bad. Verify by pulling X701 and retesting the monitor with something that has a working signal. Such as your Pacman machine. This is a video game, size doesn't matter. If the monitor works with X701 pulled out, your Regulator will need to be replaced.
 
Dokert,

I totally get you on the multiple front issue, but pardon if I'm confused.

If the HOT tested 0.000V and the regulator tested 0.63V, then how is the HOT good and the regulator potentially bad?

Evan
 
wxforecaster said:
Dokert,

I totally get you on the multiple front issue, but pardon if I'm confused.

If the HOT tested 0.000V and the regulator tested 0.63V, then how is the HOT good and the regulator potentially bad?

Evan
Click to expand...

You have a B+ reading of 166vdc, which would not be there if the HOT was bad. Also if the HOT or Fly were bad, most likely F901 would be blown.
 
wxforecaster said:
http://www.pinrepair.com/g07/

According to this, I should be getting a nominal decimal voltage similar to a normal transistor in diode mode test. I get zero on the HOT.

Then I found this:
Person has his B+ stuck at 150V with a bad HOT.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=180369&highlight=high


Confused for sure....
Evan
Click to expand...

This is not a very good test for either the HOT or the Reg. Also keep in mind that a GO7-CBO & a GO7-FBO are not identical in parts used. You are working with a GO7-FBO and reading about a GO7-CBO.

Could your HOT be the problem? Sure, but I am not there to test it for you and I can only work with the info provided to me by you.
 
Since this aspect of the problem isn't necessarily Dig Dug related, I'm going to open a new thread on the Monitors forum. There's definitely not a lot of information on this forum regarding the G07 FBO, and I'm not sure exactly what CBO information is still valid. However, for the sake of learning the trade, I'd rather try to repair the chassis then give it up and purchase a working one.

Thanks for everything thus far, Dokert. We've made huge strides in just getting the power brick and ARII boards operational.

Evan
 
Case closed. Sorry this took a few weeks.

Capped the 13" FBO and replaced the HOT (the old one tested good so that probably wasn't necessary). Since I got a good picture when I removed X701, I'm thinking it was the cap kit, namely the C501 that fixed it. Nice sharp picture now with B+ running 120V spot on instead of 166.

Board wise, I took the board from the upright and slapped it in the cocktail and it works fine. So, hopefully with your guys' help and my trusty new logic probe, we can fix the original board that will go into the upright.

Evan
 
OK, now that I have a working cocktail monitor and board (wife is VERY happy), I am trying to troubleshoot the original board that came with the cocktail.

With a working monitor, I can now see that it's going through the normal boot process, but never completes and recycles. Before the boot process starts anew, I briefly see a message RAM 4H on the monitor.

Before I go ahead and purchase a replacement, I would hate to replace this chip and then "kick the can a little bit further down the road" only to have one or more subsequent issues that turn up. With this trusty logic probe now in my posession, is there any other diagnostic work that I can do? If anyone is local to the Kansas City area, I would absolutely love to spend an afternoon or evening with one of you all and talk shop and learn the ropes of repairing this stuff (and no, I'm not trying to steal your business, one full time job and 2 rugrats are more than enough thank you) :)

YIKES. Good thing I read the Manual. RAM 4H does not refer to a chip at 4H, but rather 7M. Yeh, that's intuitive.

Evan
 
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You could swap the suspected bad part with a known good part from your working boardset. Just be careful that you don't get the parts mixed up! :)
 
MH,

Valid suggestion.

Although I'm Mr Speedy when it comes to (de)soldering, I was hoping to avoid the 2x problem with that swap idea (since I have to put the good one back). However, in light of now having a bootable game, I think it would be tough to do any further diagnostics without a good RAM chip in that slot and may go ahead and do this.

This looks like a very common chip.

-E
 
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Don't buy just one! Keep the wife happy is always a good idea, for all involved.



wxforecaster said:
MH,

Valid suggestion.

Although I'm Mr Speedy when it comes to (de)soldering, I was hoping to avoid the 2x problem with that swap idea (since I have to put the good one back). However, in light of now having a bootable game, I think it would be tough to do any further diagnostics without a good RAM chip in that slot and may go ahead and do this.

This looks like a very common chip.

-E
Click to expand...
 
Alright, where can I acquire some of these puppies. This is the RAM in 7M on a Rev B board, which is the bad component accord to the RAM 4H error during boot

It reads:
AM9114EPC
8221FPP

digdug_chip.jpg
 
2114.

Bob Roberts
arcadechips.com
Jameco
Twisty Wrist

Get several, they're common on old arcade boards.
 
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wxforecaster said:
Darren,

So I don't make silly questions like that in the future, how would one have made that linkage given the numbers/letters on the chip?
Click to expand...

It wasn't a silly question at all. I didn't intend to imply it was. I'm still learning the cross-references and common substitutions for 70s & 80s RAMs, too.

There really aren't that many different types of RAM used in games of this era, and 2114 is a pretty common one.

But to answer your question, I didn't look up the number on the RAM you posted. I looked at the location you specified (7M) on the schematics (SP-203, 4th printing, sheeet 7B). You can get a copy here: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Dig_Dug/Dig_Dug_SP-203_4th_Printing.pdf

That labels it as a 2114. I didn't look at the manual (http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Dig_Dug/Dig_Dug_TM-203_4th_Printing.pdf) but it might have the same information in the parts list for PCB.
 
Alright!! My first PCB repair is a success.

Replaced the RAM at 7M and then noticed that two of the pins did not have connectivity to their
two traces. Basically made a "solder string" from the pin to the trace.

It boots right up now and plays fine (see exception below)! Now I can put all the cocktail parts back together and redo the molex connector and move onto cosmetic issues.

The only "oddity" is that when Pooka or Fygar moves through solid dirt, all I see are two "pink" eyes. On my other board (and every other Dig Dug I've played) , they look like two white eyes with a black center and a yellow outline.

Evan
 
wxforecaster said:
Alright!! My first PCB repair is a success.

Replaced the RAM at 7M and then noticed that two of the pins did not have connectivity to their
two traces. Basically made a "solder string" from the pin to the trace.

It boots right up now and plays fine (see exception below)! Now I can put all the cocktail parts back together and redo the molex connector and move onto cosmetic issues.

The only "oddity" is that when Pooka or Fygar moves through solid dirt, all I see are two "pink" eyes. On my other board (and every other Dig Dug I've played) , they look like two white eyes with a black center and a yellow outline.

Evan
Click to expand...

Now that you have more than one ram chip you can carefully piggy one on top of suspect chip to see if it is bad.

I suspect your oddity is a ram problem also.
 
wxforecaster said:
Alright!! My first PCB repair is a success.
The only "oddity" is that when Pooka or Fygar moves through solid dirt, all I see are two "pink" eyes. On my other board (and every other Dig Dug I've played) , they look like two white eyes with a black center and a yellow outline.

Evan
Click to expand...

What do you get in test mode?
 
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