Dig Dug Cocktail Needs CPR

You should be looking at sheet 3A for the power brick pinout and it matches what you have listed. You have a bad transformer and will need to replace it or the power brick as a whole, or go to a switching power supply with and external audio amp.


wxforecaster said:
Dokert, here's what we get:

J5:

10-12 65VAC
13-15 65VAC

6-7 5.5 VAC
8-9 11.6 VAC

BTW, here's the pinout if this helps. What's interesting is the wire colors don't match after pin 6 based on the sheet 2A cocktail wiring diagram in the 4th revision:

1 Orange/White
2 Orange
3 Orange
4 Violet
5 Violet
6 Red
7 Red
8 Yellow
9 Yellow
10 Brown
11 Grey/Brown
12 Brown/White
13 Blue
14 Grey/blue
15 Blue/White
Click to expand...
 
Dokert,

After finding sheet 3A and verifying the wire colors, I realized that I was looking at this from underneath the power brick and had the pin sequence reversed from left to right. Methinks the Dig Dug power supply is actually in good shape. Here's what I got with the CORRECT measurements:

J5:

pins 10-12 65VAC (vs. 60)
pins 13-15 65VAC (vs. 60)

pins 6-7 38.2 VAC (vs. 36)
pins 8-9 6.6 VAC (vs. 6.3)

A bit high, but MUCH MUCH closer to what you (and the schematics) suggest.
Am I OK in thinking the power supply is OK enough to move on to the ARTII board?
 
The "Power Brick" with those readings is fine, move on to the power supply (A/R II) Brother.


wxforecaster said:
Dokert,

After finding sheet 3A and verifying the wire colors, I realized that I was looking at this from underneath the power brick and had the pin sequence reversed from left to right. Methinks the Dig Dug power supply is actually in good shape. Here's what I got with the CORRECT measurements:

J5:

pins 10-12 65VAC (vs. 60)
pins 13-15 65VAC (vs. 60)

pins 6-7 38.2 VAC (vs. 36)
pins 8-9 6.6 VAC (vs. 6.3)

A bit high, but MUCH MUCH closer to what you (and the schematics) suggest.
Am I OK in thinking the power supply is OK enough to move on to the ARTII board?
Click to expand...
 
OK, I repaired the electrically taped pins at J6 and the missing R29 (replaced it with a beefier 1 watter) and set it higher above the board so if it burns, it burns alone.

I have two questions:

1.) I think I have a revision 1 of the board as there is nothing on the right hand side but a bunch of solder points and test points. After plugging in the connectors from the power brick to the ARII (no PCB or monitor) I get ~13V at 10.6 VDC unregulated, and 5.3 at the +SENSE. I got nothing at -SENSE and nothing at any of the test points on the right hand side. Are there any other test points and what are proper readings under no load (these look reasonable to me).

2.) There are obvious signs of burning on the PCB connector which I will repair and clean all of the remaining tabs. With respect to the 44-pin connector, I've done enough pinball work that I'm not intimidated about redoing this from scratch, but quite honestly the connector itself looks OK with a few of the female connector co-located with the burning in need of replacement. Is it possible to just replace a few of the spring connectors or am I better off just taking a few hours to redo the 40 or so wires from scratch on a brand new part? (If the latter, who's got the best price on the "kit"?)

Evan
 
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wxforecaster said:
OK, I repaired the electrically taped pins at J6 and the missing R29 (replaced it with a beefier 1 watter) and set it higher above the board so if it burns, it burns alone.

This is fine

I have two questions:

1.) I think I have a revision 1 of the board as there is nothing on the right hand side but a bunch of solder points and test points. After plugging in the connectors from the power brick to the ARII (no PCB or monitor) I get ~13V at 10.6 VDC unregulated, and 5.3 at the +SENSE. I got nothing at -SENSE and nothing at any of the test points on the right hand side. Are there any other test points and what are proper readings under no load (these look reasonable to me).

You should have a -01, which is not a rev 1 at all. A/R II's come in -01 through -06 in several revs for each. None of them are marked as they should have been. The voltages for the unreg 10vdc is fine. Adjust the pot to turn down the +5vdc.

2.) There are obvious signs of burning on the PCB connector which I will repair and clean all of the remaining tabs. With respect to the 44-pin connector, I've done enough pinball work that I'm not intimidated about redoing this from scratch, but quite honestly the connector itself looks OK with a few of the female connector co-located with the burning in need of replacement. Is it possible to just replace a few of the spring connectors or am I better off just taking a few hours to redo the 40 or so wires from scratch on a brand new part? (If the latter, who's got the best price on the "kit"?)

Nope, the original edge connector was made by amp and you can not get the amp pins anymore. Molex pins DO NOT fit amp edge connectors.
Evan
Click to expand...

Answered above in red.
 
wxforecaster said:
So let me tackle this a different way. Original is out, but why wouldn't going with a 44 pin molex connector and standard .156 pins work? It should still slide perfectly over the board, no? For example:
Click to expand...

Yeah, that will work fine - it's just that they don't make the pins for the original edge connector housings anymore, so you can't just replace the burned up pins and re-use the old housing. You have to change the whole connector. The Molex and AMP .156 edge connectors are *functionally* identical - but the pins inside can't be used in the other type of housing.

Now, with that said, you don't necessarily need to change the connector if the board is just a little bit singed/darkened. A certain amount of that is normal. Usually cleaning up the edge connector is enough. But, if the harness connector really is damaged, then you have to replace the whole thing.

-Ian
 
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Ian, yeh the 4 pins associated with the 2 burned tabs on the PCB are not very pretty -- both bent out of shape and severly oxidized. I may try to clean them up just to dry to get the game working, but for the long haul, I'd rather do an entire recrimp. After replacing burn general illumination on umpteen Williams/Data East pins, it will be nice to work on a board sitting down rather than trying to tackle this task leaning into the backbox of a pin :)

Evan
 
Ian has explained it well.

Yes the 22/44 from Mikes will work fine, Bob Roberts has them for $5.50 IIRC.

Either way, in your case I would replace the edge connector. The edge connector could be drawing the +5vdc higher than it needs to be on the A/R II via the sense lines by crappy design.
 
OK baby steps! I've got the AR II board perfectly regulated back to 5V.

We are back in business with coin door lights!!! YAY!! Replaced the bulbs anyways.
I corrected the wiring to the start cones, and those are now correct as well.

I cleaned the PCB connectors for now (will be replacing them entirely soon).

When I plug in the PCB and turn the game on here's what happens (still no monitor connected):
1.) LED start cones light
2.) LED on PCB lights
3.) I hear a loud "click" at both coin doors and can see some metal actuator closing on both mechs
4.) There is an AWFUL high pitched squeal coming from the speaker that stops when I disconnect one of the terminals to it.
5.) I rechecked the +SENSE on the ARII and it's still at 5V (5.03).

Evan
 
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wxforecaster said:
OK baby steps! I've got the AR II board perfectly regulated back to 5V.

We are back in business with coin door lights!!! YAY!! Replaced the bulbs anyways.
I corrected the wiring to the start cones, and those are now correct as well.

I cleaned the PCB connectors for now (will be replacing them entirely soon).

When I plug in the PCB and turn the game on here's what happens (still no monitor connected):
1.) LED start cones light solid or flashing?
2.) LED on PCB lights indicates +5vdc on the game board
3.) I hear a loud "click" at both coin doors and can see some metal actuator closing on both mechs coin lockout coils are opening
4.) There is an AWFUL high pitched squeal coming from the speaker that stops when I disconnect one of the terminals to it. most likely a board issue
5.) I rechecked the +SENSE on the ARII and it's still at 5V (5.03).

Evan
Click to expand...

above in red
 
1.) Both cones are lit solid
2.) This is a good sign :)
3.) The coin lockout coils open (click once) when the game is plugged in. Is that good or bad?
4.) Which board? It looks like the ARII board was recently recapped by the previous owner, but I'm wondering if the problem is from here or the game PCB.

Going to connect up the monitor and see if I get *anything* there.

Evan
 
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wxforecaster said:
1.) Both cones are lit solid Coin it up and see if they blink
2.) This is a good sign :)
3.) The coin lockout coils open (click once) when the game is plugged in. Is that good or bad? Coin lockout coils de-energize when there is no power and will not accept coins. When energized, coin lockout coils allow coins to pass through to the coin bucket.
4.) Which board? It looks like the ARII board was recently recapped by the previous owner, but I'm wondering if the problem is from here or the game PCB. Game board. Errors will come in beep tones and are listed in the scat as to their meanings.

Going to connect up the monitor and see if I get *anything* there.

Evan
Click to expand...

above in red
 
Other than the high pitched squeal, I hear no sounds from the game. Coining up does nothing.

On the monitor side, I get no picture. I see no neck glow. I do hear the very high pitched frequency sound associated with a monitor turning on. Assuming the 13" is the same as the 19" G07 and the B+ is tested on the far leg of the ceramic... I get a whopping 166V DC there. Could I be so lucky that the monitor just went into shutdown mode given the voltage? Going to see if I can dial this down. What PAIN IN THE @$$ that is because the 2 cords are no where near long enough to set the monitor outside the game, meaning I cannot adjust the B+ pot with the game in.

Also, on the PCB, does anyone have a listing of how a 44-pin molex is sequenced? I want to verify all the wires are in the right slots, and yet I see things that would seem impossible. I can understand 1-22 on one side and A-V on the other, but the schematics have wires in W, X,Y, Z. So what numbers/letters correspond to what locations on the connector?

Evan
 
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I am not sure this is what you need but you can look over the site here. This is the edge connector pin outs but check em out as this is not the same as my Dig Dug.

I think I have a a Dig Dug 2 board.


http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=DigDug.html

Notice} I think I understand your confusion, there are some letters missing there G,I,O,Q. That is how a 22 pin connector goes from A-Z
 
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No G,I,O,Q sure makes a lot of sense :) Using the cocktail schematics this tested out good.

Dokert, not so good news on the monitor:
As I said, I was getting 166V at the B+ test point.

The hot tested 0.000V in diode mode, so I assume that's bad.
The regulator tested 0.63V in diode mode -- that seems reasonable?

I noticed a couple oddities compared to my Ms Pac G07 --
1.) Both fuses are surface mounted. Both pass a continuity test in circuit (all connectors to chassis removed)
2.) I don't see a B+ adjustment. There is nothing behind the V-hold and no other visible pots besides the 5 standard at the front of the chassis.

Regarding the PCB, I recorded the following .3gp video of the high pitched squeal with a low bass thumping coming through the speakers at power up. NOTE: the monitor is not involved and is sitting over on my work bench. I do not think Windows Media Player will play .3gp audio so you may need an alternative player. Also, I'm not sure if this matters but on the speaker the white wire is on the tab fartherst from the coiin door/start buttons (left), and the brown wire is on the one closest (right).

http://www.interwarn.com/Temp/digdug.3gp

Evan
 
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