Dig Dug Cocktail Needs CPR

wxforecaster

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Wasn't sure whether to put this here or in the restoration forum, but since it needs more physical help than TLC, I'll start here. Hopefully Dokert and some other Atari gurus can help me breathe some life into it, but the Dig Dug cocktail I picked up yesterday definitely appears to have some nice restoration potential. It will also put me in good graces with the Mrs. since it's her favorite game. For nothing more than that do I want to get this running.

Still waiting on Tom to get over the flu for the DK Jr. monitor removal/cap project, so we'll move onto this for now.

Below are some pictures and associated questions related.

Thanks in advance,
Evan

digdug_top.jpg

Cocktail Top seems to have the wrong underlay (wood grain + a couple inkjet printouts slid under for effect from what I can tell). Where can I get a repro Dig Dug cocktail underlay?


digdug_player1.jpg

Player 1 CP not bad, but could use a new repro overlay. Do these exist? Also need a coin lock for below the mechs.

digdug_player2.jpg

Player 2 CP could also use a new overlay. Worse yet, what the heck is supposed to go beneath the CP? Right now there's a black painted plywood board there held in with a couple long wood screws.

digdug_monitor.jpg

Monitor is filthy but looks complete. It's an electrohome G07 (yay something I've worked on!) Right now there's no power flowing to it, but I'll probably just Bob Roberts' the thing while it's out of the cabinet anyways.

digdug_power_supply.jpg

Power supply looks to be physically in good shape but the game is dead, so we need to start here. Dokert or anyone can provide me some test points for this thing?

(continued...)
 
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digdug_audio_regulator.jpg

Yuck. Appears someone tried to trouble shoot this first rather than the source. Quite a hack job I'm going to have to undo -- or just acquire another ARTII board on the cheap.

digdug_pcb.jpg

PCB is complete and marked good (whatever that means). There is a metal printed "B" in a square in the top left. Does this mean revision B? If so, where can I find the latest and greatest schematics? NOTE: When the game is powered on, the LED on the left does light steady.

digdug_board_connect.jpg

There is a loose ground wire and two loose white/black connectos. Where do these go?

digdug_connectors.jpg

There are 3 loose connectors in the bottom of the cabinet. Two of them obviously go back to my monitor. Where does the third (marked with a ?) go?

All in all, when I plug in the game, I get an LED on the PCB and that's it. No coin door or cone start lights, no monitor anything and no hums, high pitched squeals or other signs of life.
 
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The board that goes under the CP should be failry thick with one (maybe two) metal slot screwed to it. The metal bar that you can see in the opening normally will pass through the metal slots holding the access door in place. It can be removed from the top with the glass top propped up.

I'd start by testing the main fuse to the power brick. That is the one in the black fuse holder. Once you verify it is good you can test power at each fuse with the machine on.

I'd pull the electrical tape and verify all of the wires have sturdy connections. I'd most likely solder the wires together and heat shrink the joints.
 
nice pickup

i got lucky and found an nos glass for mine but that was years ago, seem to recall seeing an underlay somewhere

The board as described should also have a stepped edge, i can take pics if you want. also i remember seeing unused connectors, i'll check if ? is one of them

- gwarble
 
digdug_connectors.jpg

There are 3 loose connectors in the bottom of the cabinet. Two of them obviously go back to my monitor. Where does the third (marked with a ?) go?

The plug in the bottom of the pic goes to the monitor chassis for AC power, the six position amp style connector is missing it's mate. The mate plugs into it and the monitor video header. The plug with the question mark hooks up to nothing, it is for another coin counter which you do not have.
Dok
 
Looking forward to a full day off today to play with this. In the meantime a nice gentle rain and thunderstorm outside were relaxing enough to begin work on this early this morning.

The good: Got the power supply out by itself and it cleaned right up. Looks literally brand new! The main black fuses and all the others tested good.

The other good: I noticed that the white/black wire strands and ground that were hanging in the 6th picture above come from J4 and are supposed to go to a fan, which is not present. I assume there should be a fan in the cocktail for heat dissipation. Where can I get one?

OK, right I have the power supply by itself with the only connector being the plug to the outlet. What are my test points and furthermore, do I need to have J2 plugged in since that goes to the on/off switch (I would assume yes, but it is 1AM after all).

Evan
 
OK, I think my power supply has some problems.

With nothing connected other than the on/off switch and the outlet plug...

I've got 122 VAC confirmed coming into the game, and verified across J1A.

J5:
1-4, 1-5, 2-4, 2-5, 3-4, 3-5 are all 15.4 VDC

8-9 is 11.7 VAC (should be 6.3?)
10-15 is 49.5 VAC (should be 120?)

Any ideas on where to go from here?

Evan
 
Yes, there should be a 120vac fan in there, and Radio Shack still sells them at least they do today.

J5 DC power is fine, it is unregulated 10.3vdc which could actually be as high as 16vdc.

8-9 is definitely high

10-15 is off.

post a bunch of pics of the power brick from all different angles, including the bottom. You may have a Vector power brick in there instead of a Raster power brick. Let's face it, people are stupid and all Atari power bricks look alike to most people.
 
Dokert, here ya go. While I was at it, I took a few pics of the ARTII board since we're going to have to undo that awful hack.

Not to put the cart before the horse since the ARTII board isn't even hooked up, but here's some info:

Red/White & Red/Yellow were bound together w/ electrical tape
Red/Green & thin Red were bound together w/ electrical tape
Remaining plugs in J7 are:
4 red/green
5 red/white
8 tan
9 brown

J8 3 tan
4 orange

J6 1&2 purple
3,5,6 orange

digdug_power_supply1.jpg


digdug_power_supply2.jpg


digdug_power_supply3.jpg


digdug_power_supply4.jpg


digdug_power_supply5.jpg
 
digdug_power_supply11.jpg


digdug_power_supply12.jpg



ARTII board:

digdug_audio_regulator1.jpg


digdug_audio_regulator2.jpg


R29 isn't even a resistor!!! What the heck?!
And whatever is to the right of it has a bunch of goop coming out of it. Almost feels like silicone caulk
It looks like it was recapped (poorly I may add) Going to need to reflow solder, but I think that's the least of my problems when we get to this point.
 
R29 should be a 100 ohm resistor, and they commonly burn up when the A/R II fails. The ooze is simply extra flux and will clean off with iso alcohol. (90% or better)

The disconnected connector in pic 1 goes to the missing fan.

I will have to review the Dig Dug scat to check what the J5 pinout should be.
 
J5
10-12
13-15
Both should read roughly 60vac, 10-15 will not give you a proper reading without jumpering 12-13.

6-7 36vac
8-9 6.3vac
 
Dokert, here's what we get:

J5:

10-12 65VAC
13-15 65VAC

6-7 5.5 VAC
8-9 11.6 VAC

BTW, here's the pinout if this helps. What's interesting is the wire colors don't match after pin 6 based on the sheet 2A cocktail wiring diagram in the 4th revision:

1 Orange/White
2 Orange
3 Orange
4 Violet
5 Violet
6 Red
7 Red
8 Yellow
9 Yellow
10 Brown
11 Grey/Brown
12 Brown/White
13 Blue
14 Grey/blue
15 Blue/White
 
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Looks like R29 is toast. Guess you'll be replacing that. ;)
 
Don't you love the use of wire in its place? Reminds me of the darwin award winner back in the 80s who fixed his vehicle by inserting a bullet in a fuse folder under the dash. Yes, the "fuse" eventually blew and he shot himself in the nuts, wrecking his vehicle and dying in the crash as I recall.

Well going to do some repairs on the ARTII board while I await to hear back from Dokert or any other experts as to what the deal is with my power supply voltages being all horked up.

Evan
 
On the ARTII board I fixed all the molex pins that were wrapped in electrical tape.
I tested R1 through R30. Other than the obvious R29 issue (yes it's supposed to be a 10 ohm), the only exceptions I noticed were R5 (3.1 ohms vs 2.7 -- I guess this is tolerable) and the weird R8 that has 3 prongs on it -- I got 870 v 1k on the farthest apart leads.

My Tenma multimeter has a capacitance test function that I was going to use to test the caps, but I'm not getting a reading on any of them. Can't say I've had much experience here.

Evan
 
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