Did I just trash this socket?

demogo

Well-known member

Donor 14 years: 2012-2025
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
14,952
Reaction score
2,102
Location
Texas
Apparently my soldering iron brushed the corner of this socket by accident. Did it damage it to the point where the socket needs to be replaced now?


attachment.php



attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • pic 2.JPG
    pic 2.JPG
    156.7 KB · Views: 190
  • pic 3.JPG
    pic 3.JPG
    116.3 KB · Views: 187
Apparently my soldering iron brushed the corner of this socket by accident. Did it damage it to the point where the socket needs to be replaced now?


attachment.php



attachment.php


It looks like it will still work. Seat a chip in it and test continuity with your DMM from the bottom solder joint to the pin in each of the suspect locations.
 
If I get continuity, does that mean I'll probably have solid, reliable continuity?
 
If it is a Major Havoc or something then I would go back and fix that. If it's more like Zaxxon then just leave it alone if it works.
 
Can anyone tell me what that socket would be called? A Z80 plugs into it.

I want extreme reliability so it should probably be fixed.
 
If you can replace it without further damage to the board then do it. If you don't have a way to easily desolder it then clean up the square hole with a sharp hobby knife to get rid of the melty bit that is covering the hole. If the side of the socket isn't damaged and if it's just the top of it you're fine.
 
If you can replace it without further damage to the board then do it. If you don't have a way to easily desolder it then clean up the square hole with a sharp hobby knife to get rid of the melty bit that is covering the hole. If the side of the socket isn't damaged and if it's just the top of it you're fine.

I have a new Hakko 808 that I'm thinking would take the socket off pretty quickly. I could probably solder a replacement socket in; I'd have to go look closely at the holes and see if they're far enough apart for me to safely do...

Could one of you guys possibly find me a link to mouser for the socket that I need?

I'll go out there with my Xacto knife and see how much I can clean this up but it does look like some of the side was damaged...
 
Where are you in Texas? I forgot... If you're in the Dallas area stop by and I'll give you one.
 
Where are you in Texas? I forgot... If you're in the Dallas area stop by and I'll give you one.

Hours south of you, I'm afraid. :(

But Mouser is pretty quick. My guess is this is too obscure for Fry's.
 
Here's a side shot.


attachment.php



Ignore the wire sticking up. Does that look salvageable? I just don't want to introduce any instability into the game because of this.
 

Attachments

  • pic 1.JPG
    pic 1.JPG
    26.4 KB · Views: 97
Go ahead and replace it.

Not 100% sure if the one at Fry's is dual wipe...
 
Here's a side shot.


attachment.php



Ignore the wire sticking up. Does that look salvageable? I just don't want to introduce any instability into the game because of this.

That doesn't look too bad. Clean it up and see how it looks/works. It only looks like a little bit of the plastic got hit and nothing else.

Have you done socket replacements before/are you good at it? No shame in avoiding do it if you think you won't do a good enough job that you'd be happy with.
 
That doesn't look too bad. Clean it up and see how it looks/works. It only looks like a little bit of the plastic got hit and nothing else.

Have you done socket replacements before/are you good at it? No shame in avoiding do it if you think you won't do a good enough job that you'd be happy with.

Nope, never replaced a socket before. I understand it's a lot easier with a Hakko desoldering gun and I do have one of those.

I actually just checked with a repair tech at work that does soldering/rework for modern electronics and asked him if he could do it for me. He agreed to look at it.

If this were a scrub board then I'd absolutely pull out the Hakko and give it a go. But it's not; it's a high value board for me so I'm a little reluctant to make it my first socket replacement attempt.
 
If this were a scrub board then I'd absolutely pull out the Hakko and give it a go. But it's not; it's a high value board for me so I'm a little reluctant to make it my first socket replacement attempt.

That is kind of what I thought. :)

I was in the same place (not a high value board, but impossible to find). Sadly, the guy I found to do it didn't do a great job. 10x time better than me, but when I saw little "rings" around the legs of the old chip, I figured I was screwed. The new socket/new chip either didn't fix the problem or the replacement job wasn't executed well enough.
 
That is kind of what I thought. :)

I was in the same place (not a high value board, but impossible to find). Sadly, the guy I found to do it didn't do a great job. 10x time better than me, but when I saw little "rings" around the legs of the old chip, I figured I was screwed. The new socket/new chip either didn't fix the problem or the replacement job wasn't executed well enough.

I've seen this guy's soldering work on modern 8 or 10 layer surface mount boards with components so tiny I could never begin to work on them. This is a big part of this guy's job; this would have to be a walk in the park for him. Single layer, through hole, components much larger than what he's done before.

He did say he'd use lead free solder which made me a little uneasy though. He said it's company policy now to only use lead free and he promised me it'd stick fine to the board.
 
IMHO.

Rather than use the 808 to remove that socket (and risk damaging the PTH or pulling a trace if you don't get all of the solder out), you can simply cut the plastic socket right out with a pair of small side cutters and the simply heat up each pin with a soldering iron one at a time and pull them out with tweezers. Easy stuff.

Takes like 3 minutes on a 40 pin socket.
 
Back
Top Bottom