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Did Cap Kit, Worked briefly,now FOCUS POT GLOWIN!
- Thread starter Leinhit
- Start date
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
The banded side should be checked with DC voltage...
looks like the flyback is putting out the proper heater voltage, but is the diode rectifying properly? I would try pulling one leg of that diode out. That would disable the horizontal oscillator disable feature, especially since we know now that the heater voltage is okay....
BTW....You said earlier that this was a TM202, right? The schematic I've been using (and the only one I have found - even at the TM202 link on Xmission) is for the TM220. Could this make a difference? Are we sure yours is a TM202? Or that the flyback you got was for your version and not a different version (assuming that the flybacks weren't the same)?
The banded side should be checked with DC voltage...
looks like the flyback is putting out the proper heater voltage, but is the diode rectifying properly? I would try pulling one leg of that diode out. That would disable the horizontal oscillator disable feature, especially since we know now that the heater voltage is okay....
BTW....You said earlier that this was a TM202, right? The schematic I've been using (and the only one I have found - even at the TM202 link on Xmission) is for the TM220. Could this make a difference? Are we sure yours is a TM202? Or that the flyback you got was for your version and not a different version (assuming that the flybacks weren't the same)?
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
My chassis is a TM202-G.. And the parts chassis I bought is the same. There is a label on both chassis that say this.
The fly in it right now came out of the parts chassis I bought.. so I'm sure its OEM
Ok, the banded side had been tested on DC200.. and it was 25.3
So, pull one leg of the D513 Diode out you say? Ok, it will take pulling the chassis out to get to it w/ a desolder iron..
I found a manual at Basement arcade is for TM220 also.. I wonder if there is any difference.. maybe one is B/W and the other is color? dunno! but 19" raster..
My chassis is a TM202-G.. And the parts chassis I bought is the same. There is a label on both chassis that say this.
The fly in it right now came out of the parts chassis I bought.. so I'm sure its OEM
Ok, the banded side had been tested on DC200.. and it was 25.3
So, pull one leg of the D513 Diode out you say? Ok, it will take pulling the chassis out to get to it w/ a desolder iron..
I found a manual at Basement arcade is for TM220 also.. I wonder if there is any difference.. maybe one is B/W and the other is color? dunno! but 19" raster..
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
If this gets you a picture, then I'd start by replacing that diode (maybe swap it from the parts chassis).
If it doesn't, then we can start looking at the blanking circuits.
BTW - You HAVE gone through all the caps (I think you said you replaced them) and verified none were in backwards.....right?
If this gets you a picture, then I'd start by replacing that diode (maybe swap it from the parts chassis).
If it doesn't, then we can start looking at the blanking circuits.
BTW - You HAVE gone through all the caps (I think you said you replaced them) and verified none were in backwards.....right?
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Another BTW -
If you want to check your B+ voltage, find a test point in the center of the board slightly behind and to the right of the B+ adjustment pot on the center edge of the board. The test point is labeled TPD091. Set your meter on DC 200 and put your black lead to a ground (frame) and your red lead on this point. It should read about 123vdc. If it's off, adjust the B+ pot to get it where it should be.
Another BTW -
If you want to check your B+ voltage, find a test point in the center of the board slightly behind and to the right of the B+ adjustment pot on the center edge of the board. The test point is labeled TPD091. Set your meter on DC 200 and put your black lead to a ground (frame) and your red lead on this point. It should read about 123vdc. If it's off, adjust the B+ pot to get it where it should be.
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Ok.. I just did it.. I unsoldered the banded side of D513 and pull it out of the hole.
No picture yet, still the same black screen.... I did see just two slight random flashes of light on the far right side of the monitor.. very small and dim.. just a split second.. prob. nothing.
Ok to put the D513 back in or leave it out until next directions?
Ok.. I just did it.. I unsoldered the banded side of D513 and pull it out of the hole.
No picture yet, still the same black screen.... I did see just two slight random flashes of light on the far right side of the monitor.. very small and dim.. just a split second.. prob. nothing.
Ok to put the D513 back in or leave it out until next directions?
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Ok on checking the B+.. will do it now...
and yes.. I did the cap kit.. and checked all the ones I put in to verify correct +- , also had the TV repair guy check visually and he said they were good to.
*** I just checked B+ and it was 146.2-5 V.. and it wouldn't adjust no matter how far I turned the adjustment either way... hmmm... wasn't there another post this past week about something very similar?
Ok on checking the B+.. will do it now...
and yes.. I did the cap kit.. and checked all the ones I put in to verify correct +- , also had the TV repair guy check visually and he said they were good to.
*** I just checked B+ and it was 146.2-5 V.. and it wouldn't adjust no matter how far I turned the adjustment either way... hmmm... wasn't there another post this past week about something very similar?
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
If you have D513 out, you may try swapping it with the one from the parts chassis just cuz....
If you have D513 out, you may try swapping it with the one from the parts chassis just cuz....
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Reply here instead of editing ..
*** I just checked B+ and it was 146.2-5 V.. and it wouldn't adjust no matter how far I turned the adjustment either way... hmmm... wasn't there another post this past week about something very similar?
Also.. I can swap the D513 in a bit, or tomorrow in case other checks needed now ... since its still in and on..
** here was the original post recently about high B+
Reply here instead of editing ..
*** I just checked B+ and it was 146.2-5 V.. and it wouldn't adjust no matter how far I turned the adjustment either way... hmmm... wasn't there another post this past week about something very similar?
Also.. I can swap the D513 in a bit, or tomorrow in case other checks needed now ... since its still in and on..
** here was the original post recently about high B+
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Well, your B+ is too high. We need to find out why....
OK....
Pull the chassis out.
Put the meter on diode test and check all the combinations of legs for Q801 and Q802, and then check R811 (47k), R812 (500), R813 (5.3K), and R815 (270).
If you get short readings (beep or zeros) on any of the leg combinations, or a zero reading or open (set the meter to tha prropriate ohm range for each resistor), then replace that part.
I assume that fuse F002 is good, otherwise we wouldn't have anything, but doublecheck it...
I gotta crash for now. If you still can't find a problem, go into the parts listing for the main chassis at the end of the manual and test everything that has a triangle next to it. If you get a funky reading on anything, try swapping it out, or verifying the reading on your parts chassis.
I'll check back tomorrow night (gonna be outta town during the day tomorrow) and see if we can come up with some other ideas...
Well, your B+ is too high. We need to find out why....
OK....
Pull the chassis out.
Put the meter on diode test and check all the combinations of legs for Q801 and Q802, and then check R811 (47k), R812 (500), R813 (5.3K), and R815 (270).
If you get short readings (beep or zeros) on any of the leg combinations, or a zero reading or open (set the meter to tha prropriate ohm range for each resistor), then replace that part.
I assume that fuse F002 is good, otherwise we wouldn't have anything, but doublecheck it...
I gotta crash for now. If you still can't find a problem, go into the parts listing for the main chassis at the end of the manual and test everything that has a triangle next to it. If you get a funky reading on anything, try swapping it out, or verifying the reading on your parts chassis.
I'll check back tomorrow night (gonna be outta town during the day tomorrow) and see if we can come up with some other ideas...
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Yup on B+ being too high...
That fuse has continuity.. so I believe that means good.
I swapped the D513 and now using the spare parts chassis one.
Here is my results so far from the tests you requested.. and explanation on how I got to them.
Q801-- I couldn't find it on the board.. is it the thing mounted to the side bracket that looks like the HOT ,but on the opposite side of the chassis? IF So.. I got readings of 731,199, and 839 on the various leg combinations.. (my meter doens't have a speaker for beeps)
Compared to my spare parts chassis Q801 of 650, 206, and 850 on the same combinations.
Q802-- 700+, 700+ and then just a "1" (is that bad . i.e shorted open?)
Q802 parts chassis 733,707, 1625.. the 1625 is where the one I'm using just gives me a "1". Should I swap them? tempted to before tonight when you get back on.
R811--13.2 with Ohm set @ 20k
R811--8.4 spare chassis
R812--475 @2000 setting
R812--452 spare chassis (This is the B+ adjustment right?)
R813--4.8 ohms set @ 20k
R813--4.89 spare chassis
R815--264 ohms set @2000
R815--265 spare chassis
So the only thing I see here is the Q802 not comparing closely to the spare chassis one... What you think of these results?
EDIT ** Ok, while waiting I went ahead and swapped the Q802 that gave different readings from what I had and the spare parts chassis.
BUT, oddly, once I installed the spare into the board, I got a " 1 " again when testing w/ the diode tester on those same two legs (the red line on the middle leg and the black on the right leg) !! ? What does that mean? It gives readings on the 3 combinations when its in the spare chassis, and back to " 1 " once installed.
The one I took out still gives a " 1 " on the same leg combination while out and lying on the desk.
Does that mean something further down the line connected to that Q802 is bad and its affecting the reading? Maybe its a clue Shaggy !
I will not install and try it until talking to you again, don't want to risk ruining this Q802 somehow..
Yup on B+ being too high...
That fuse has continuity.. so I believe that means good.
I swapped the D513 and now using the spare parts chassis one.
Here is my results so far from the tests you requested.. and explanation on how I got to them.
Q801-- I couldn't find it on the board.. is it the thing mounted to the side bracket that looks like the HOT ,but on the opposite side of the chassis? IF So.. I got readings of 731,199, and 839 on the various leg combinations.. (my meter doens't have a speaker for beeps)
Compared to my spare parts chassis Q801 of 650, 206, and 850 on the same combinations.
Q802-- 700+, 700+ and then just a "1" (is that bad . i.e shorted open?)
Q802 parts chassis 733,707, 1625.. the 1625 is where the one I'm using just gives me a "1". Should I swap them? tempted to before tonight when you get back on.
R811--13.2 with Ohm set @ 20k
R811--8.4 spare chassis
R812--475 @2000 setting
R812--452 spare chassis (This is the B+ adjustment right?)
R813--4.8 ohms set @ 20k
R813--4.89 spare chassis
R815--264 ohms set @2000
R815--265 spare chassis
So the only thing I see here is the Q802 not comparing closely to the spare chassis one... What you think of these results?
EDIT ** Ok, while waiting I went ahead and swapped the Q802 that gave different readings from what I had and the spare parts chassis.
BUT, oddly, once I installed the spare into the board, I got a " 1 " again when testing w/ the diode tester on those same two legs (the red line on the middle leg and the black on the right leg) !! ? What does that mean? It gives readings on the 3 combinations when its in the spare chassis, and back to " 1 " once installed.
The one I took out still gives a " 1 " on the same leg combination while out and lying on the desk.
Does that mean something further down the line connected to that Q802 is bad and its affecting the reading? Maybe its a clue Shaggy !
I will not install and try it until talking to you again, don't want to risk ruining this Q802 somehow..
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Ok, I'm home! Did you remove that one from the parts chassis that you put in and tested it with it out of the cab? Sometimes you'll get a false reading through another part, but that's usually a short - not an open. Are you testing on the leg or on the solder pad? Pull it out and test it, then test the empty holes - on both chassis - to see if you get any weird readings....
Ok, I'm home! Did you remove that one from the parts chassis that you put in and tested it with it out of the cab? Sometimes you'll get a false reading through another part, but that's usually a short - not an open. Are you testing on the leg or on the solder pad? Pull it out and test it, then test the empty holes - on both chassis - to see if you get any weird readings....
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
BTw. The three legs of the transistor Q802 are the emitter (E), the collector (C), and the base (B). B is the middle leg. E is the leg connected to the non-banded side of D805. C is the leg connected to R808. Which combination is giving you the L?
Remember to test both directions, with the red an E and black on C, then the black on E and the red on C - for example. Some directions should measure something, while the opposite direction won't....
If both transistors measure the same when out of circuit, then they're probably both good. If they're different, then I would put in the one from the parts chassis...
BTw. The three legs of the transistor Q802 are the emitter (E), the collector (C), and the base (B). B is the middle leg. E is the leg connected to the non-banded side of D805. C is the leg connected to R808. Which combination is giving you the L?
Remember to test both directions, with the red an E and black on C, then the black on E and the red on C - for example. Some directions should measure something, while the opposite direction won't....
If both transistors measure the same when out of circuit, then they're probably both good. If they're different, then I would put in the one from the parts chassis...
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Unless the TM202 is different than the T220, this should be reading 47K ohms. That is a resistor striped yellow, purple, orange, something (probably gold). If those are the colors on R811, then pull it out of circuit and check it again. Maybe this is part of our problem, as it's not dropping the B+ far enough....
Unless the TM202 is different than the T220, this should be reading 47K ohms. That is a resistor striped yellow, purple, orange, something (probably gold). If those are the colors on R811, then pull it out of circuit and check it again. Maybe this is part of our problem, as it's not dropping the B+ far enough....
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Ok.. here we go..
I took the Q802 from the parts chassis and put it in the one I'm using already.. I did NOT test it out of the chassis. Since its in, I can't test the empty holes, except on the parts chassis.
Does a " 1 " mean short or open? I tested touching the legs from the componet side of the board.
On to your next questions
Ok.. here we go..
I took the Q802 from the parts chassis and put it in the one I'm using already.. I did NOT test it out of the chassis. Since its in, I can't test the empty holes, except on the parts chassis.
Does a " 1 " mean short or open? I tested touching the legs from the componet side of the board.
On to your next questions
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
I already put the parts Q802 into the board. That gave readings on all 3 combinations while in the parts chassis, but once I put it in the chassis we're working on, that B-E combo gave a " 1 " again.
If you mean which combo is giving the " 1 " (it looks like a one to me) It is RED line to the B and the black line to the E. I did test in both directions on all the combinations.
I already put the parts Q802 into the board. That gave readings on all 3 combinations while in the parts chassis, but once I put it in the chassis we're working on, that B-E combo gave a " 1 " again.
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
That's actually a lower case L, shorthand for "overlimit". Try testing the empty holes on the parts chassis....
That's actually a lower case L, shorthand for "overlimit". Try testing the empty holes on the parts chassis....
Re: Did Cap Kit, FOCUS POT UPDATE
Ok, with that R811 out of the chassis.. it reads 59.5 Ohms set on 200K
So much different readings in and out of the chassis....
I'll leave it out for now.. But the parts chassis R811 read similar installed too.. I could take it out and check?
Ok, with that R811 out of the chassis.. it reads 59.5 Ohms set on 200K
So much different readings in and out of the chassis....
I'll leave it out for now.. But the parts chassis R811 read similar installed too.. I could take it out and check?
