did anyone ever touch up a glass bezel??

I think most people use Testor's model enamel. It's inexpensive, opaque and comes in lots of colours so it's easy to match. I've used it on a few bezels and it works well. I attached some pics of an area I did on my Pac-Man bezel.

There was also a good example of a Galaga bezel touch-up a few weeks ago in the showcase sub-forum. Again, the person used Testor's: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=163264
 

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I actually start by triple thicking the bezel. Not the clear areas you want to see through , just the screened areas. Once that's dry I just use some red, green, blue and white acrylic paints I bought from walmart to mix any color I need. I basically mix the color until it looks near correct and then paint a stroke on cardboard and dry it with a heat gun. that way I can see the dry paint color next to the bezel color I'm trying to match. Once the color is correct I apply to the bezel and let dry. Once dry I once again triple thick the bezel to seal the touch up work. BTW for most blacks I use rustoleum semi gloss or gloss oil based paint.
 
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yes krylon triple thick is a clear coat used to seal just the screened art on a glass bezel. Don't want to coat the parts you want to keep clear as it will leave a haze if you spray it on those areas. It can be removed if you get some overspray but it's better to avoid the scenario if you can. As mentioned it not only seals the old art but gives a slight buffer in case there is an issue with the touch up. The clear coat allows a layer of protection where if you have a touch up wrong you can carefully remove the mistake and try again.
 
How do you triple thick paint that is curled up? Do you somehow hold it down while you spray? Do you spray and then push it down? I have a few bezels that are begging for me to touch up when I get a chance but I'm afraid of going anywhere near the curled up paint.

Any chance that this technique could be used for bubbled glass artwork? If so, any difference in how you get the bubble to lay back down flat on the glass?
 
I don't get it, you're spraying the triple thick on the backside of the marquee the same side where the original paint is, then touching up on top of the triple thick??? Won't that make the new paint and the original paint appear on different levels?
 
Use Triple Thick(TT) with caution. Several Pinhead's have had problems with it lately. It has been theorized that the formula has changed in the last year or so. Some, including people exprienced with TT ing backglasses have had them ruined with recent TT use. Search over at RGP google group for information/experience.
 
I'm a new member here and have been fiddling with classic arcade games for some time. Please let me know if anything I post belongs elsewhere or is otherwise out of line.

I've done several projects that required touch-up of the bezel glass including recent work on a Galaga bezel. I use acrylic paint sets that are available at art supply stores. I also use paint pens--they're a quick-n-dirty way to make small repairs. I like the artists' acrylic paint sets because they already have a lot of color choices--makes the final mixing either easy or unnecessary. They're also water-soluable which makes cleanup a lot easier and the water-base keeps them from eating into the existing inks as much.

I'm big on doing things as well as I can without shortcuts (like those screened vinyl coverings for Pac Man). Everything is done the tedious way but the results are so much better. It also keeps me out of trouble (mostly) and appeals to my perfectionist side.

I started a (non-profit--there's no money in this!) website to document my restored collection and the methods I've used.

http://pac-maniac.com

The thumbnails below are one example of bezel touchup from my site link.

I've also been collecting parts for arcade games, mostly Pac-Man. I now have 6 original Pac joysticks, 12 PCB boards, marquees, and many other items. Don't hesitate to contact me via that website if you're interested in trading or acquiring some of these parts.

Thanks, and glad to be aboard!
 

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awesome!!! i have alot of work to do on this pac bezel.including a corner (with yellow dots) across the entire bottom!!! take a look. whaddaya think? salvageable?
 

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Use Triple Thick(TT) with caution. Several Pinhead's have had problems with it lately. It has been theorized that the formula has changed in the last year or so. Some, including people exprienced with TT ing backglasses have had them ruined with recent TT use. Search over at RGP google group for information/experience.

I agree that I believe they have changed the formula. Although I have used it on a number of glass marquees since when I believe the change was made and have had no issues. All the items I used it on were probably no older than 81. Some of the stuff the pin guys may have been working with could have been older and that may have had something to do with the issues caused by the TT.
 
awesome!!! i have alot of work to do on this pac bezel.including a corner (with yellow dots) across the entire bottom!!! take a look. whaddaya think? salvageable?

That's repairable for sure but it'll take some work. To replace the yellow dots, you'll need to get a leather hole punch tool (they sell them dirt cheap, $6.49 at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/revolving-leather-punch-41339.html). Mark a length of masking tape straight down the middle, then tape it to the (cleaned) front side first to get the dot spacing. It's safer to use low-tack painter's tape than regular masking tape.

Make marks at the dot intervals across your line. Then use that hole punch on those marks. There's one hole punch choice that's an exact match for those graphics. You'll need to experiment with paint mixing to get the colors right. Then paint it on. Once dry, you can strip away the tape. Then apply the black.

I've redone some where the white area around the text boxes and blue pinstripes were badly damaged--I've been successful in making it look so close to new that noboby notices. Let me know how it goes! I'll help any way I can.
 
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I like the artists' acrylic paint sets because they already have a lot of color choices--makes the final mixing either easy or unnecessary. They're also water-soluable which makes cleanup a lot easier and the water-base keeps them from eating into the existing inks as much.

Do you seal the back of the newly applied acrylic?
 
One of the other things I do is to mix the paint and then use an airbrush. I have some carboard sheets with various cutouts (lines, circles, squares, L's, etc.) so that I can lay them down without using tape that can peel weak paint. I touch up the areas that need it by using the holes in the carboard as a mask.

ken
 
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