Did a caps kit,got no neck glow

I did it two ways,one test lead on the left prong one on the right and that gave me 006DCV I then put both leads simultaneously on one tab and then the other which gave me 0DCV. I don't see any other way to do it. I also noticed something else when its powered on. The resistor at R105 gets really hot.

Where are you grounding your meter? Theres no way that theres only 6VDC on that resistor.
 
Where are you grounding your meter? Theres no way that theres only 6VDC on that resistor.

Yeah, the Black lead should only be on a Ground (large heatsink works well) when measuring for voltages. Use the Red lead for probing where you want to take the measurement from. (see attached pic)


I'll have to remember that as well, never come across one that had that issue.
But I have plenty of junk chassis, so there may be one in that bunch.
 

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Yeah, the Black lead should only be on a Ground (large heatsink works well) when measuring for voltages. Use the Red lead for probing where you want to take the measurement from. (see attached pic)



I'll have to remember that as well, never come across one that had that issue.
But I have plenty of junk chassis, so there may be one in that bunch.


I got 160DCV
 
I got 160DCV

On BOTH ends ?

One end represents input voltage to the regulator, the other end represents output voltage from the regulator, which is why I always suggest taking readings from BOTH ends.

Helps determine which way to start troubleshooting sometimes. If input voltage is good then you leave that side of things alone, etc.
 
On BOTH ends ?

One end represents input voltage to the regulator, the other end represents output voltage from the regulator, which is why I always suggest taking readings from BOTH ends.

Helps determine which way to start troubleshooting sometimes. If input voltage is good then you leave that side of things alone, etc.

More specifically 166VDC on the tab with red wire, 160VDC blue side
 
Get the proper C36, then see where you are before you spend any more time shotgunning....
 
R105 is the degauss coil thermistor.....it is going to run hot as it is try to hold back the current from the coil right after initial start up and degauss cycle. (it is doing its job)
 
R105 is the degauss coil thermistor.....it is going to run hot as it is try to hold back the current from the coil right after initial start up and degauss cycle. (it is doing its job)

Oh okay,I already ordered a new one so I guess it could'nt hurt to replace it.
 
Alright I'm back. My order came from bob roberts today consisting of a new Critical safety cap,replacement resistor for R105 and a new 200v 560uf cap for C55. I replaced the cap for C55 already and was in the process of replaceing the critical cap only to find that it has already been done. The thing is,the original cap is still on the top of the board along with the new one on the bottom. I took pics of the whole bottom chassis and pics of all the modifications that have been done,are these from the factory and Does anyone know the reason for all of these extra components? Should I remove both or one Critical cap and do it the correct way? The board was serviced back in 07 by Brady distributing according to the label on the old C55 cap.

I was going to use this as my tutorial for install

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/csc.html
 

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Alright I'm back. My order came from bob roberts today consisting of a new Critical safety cap,replacement resistor for R105 and a new 200v 560uf cap for C55. I replaced the cap for C55 already and was in the process of replaceing the critical cap only to find that it has already been done. The thing is,the original cap is still on the top of the board along with the new one on the bottom. I took pics of the whole bottom chassis and pics of all the modifications that have been done,are these from the factory and Does anyone know the reason for all of these extra components? Should I remove both or one Critical cap and do it the correct way? The board was serviced back in 07 by Brady distributing according to the label on the old C55 cap.

I was going to use this as my tutorial for install

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/csc.html

I can't read what that cap on the bottom across C36 is reading (looks like 102?), but I would remove both, put your new one in, and see what happens. If it IS a 102, then it would appear someone tried to increase the 432 value by adding the cap in parallel, but that only bumps it to 532, when you need 612...
 
I can't read what that cap on the bottom across C36 is reading (looks like 102?), but I would remove both, put your new one in, and see what happens. If it IS a 102, then it would appear someone tried to increase the 432 value by adding the cap in parallel, but that only bumps it to 532, when you need 612...

Alright,I haven't fired it up since replacing C55 so I am going to try that before I remove both caps. What do you think of all the wiring and resistors all over the bottom?
 
I can't read what that cap on the bottom across C36 is reading (looks like 102?), but I would remove both, put your new one in, and see what happens. If it IS a 102, then it would appear someone tried to increase the 432 value by adding the cap in parallel, but that only bumps it to 532, when you need 612...

Oh I get what your asking!!!! The bottom cap across C36 reads 102G 1.6KV. The replacement Bob sent me is the exact type of cap but reads 602G 1.6KV
 
I can't read what that cap on the bottom across C36 is reading (looks like 102?), but I would remove both, put your new one in, and see what happens. If it IS a 102, then it would appear someone tried to increase the 432 value by adding the cap in parallel, but that only bumps it to 532, when you need 612...

New CSC installed, still get nothing. Should I just give up on this and send it out for repair?
 
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