Did a caps kit,got no neck glow

sohchx said:
I have the manual at home what page did you get this from?
Click to expand...

The voltage is marked on the schematc, but the above suggested test points are on the troubleshooting flowchart, page 11, under the heading "No High Voltage". Realistically, there are several other places to test, but the ones the manual points out are nice and easy to get to :)

-Ian
 
As mod mentioned, check the B+ on that resistor. Its way easier to check it there then it is to check it on the deflection board. If its within 120-125VDC then the monitor is probably operating minus the heater voltage. If its above 135 or so the monitor is probably in HV shutdown. A bad regulator could cause this but a bad flyback could also cause your B+ to shoot skyward. There are also a number of other things that can cause this to happen but lets see what your B+ is first. Check it on the side closest to the tube.

Simple way to check for heater voltage is to look for it on pins 4 and 5 if you have the small neck or pins 9 and 10 on the fat neck tube. You could also check pin 4 to GND or pin 10 to GND for the voltage. It should be AC voltage so set your meter correctly. Also make sure that no pins are bent inward on your neck.

Filament voltage comes off of pin 9 of the flayback but you should also be able to find it on pin 5 of P5. If its not at P5 then I'd look over your traces leading back to the flyback. If they are good you have a bad flyback.
 
vintagegamer said:
Any updates there Sparky? :D
Click to expand...

Hey man, No I got to busy to fool with it last night. To top it off,I have another problem. Now my Rtype monitor is giving me issues too after doing a caps kit to that. Now I have a total of three games in my collection that are down all due to a monitor issue. None of this makes any sense!! I have done at least 6 kits this year with no problems and now everything I touch is going down. After I get these three resolved I may just send my stuff out to get done cuz this is rediculous. I'll try to get back to testing this tonight.
 
RetroHacker said:
Probably because a lot of it is in the manual.

But in your case, start by testing the B+ - according to the manual, the test point is at IC4, pin 4, or on the neckboard, P202, pin 3. You're looking for 123VDC

EDIT: To clarify, set your meter to read DC volts. Connect the black lead to the metal frame of the monitor, connect the red lead to EITHER of the two test points listed above.

Another thing you should check is to see if the HOT is shorted to the heat sink. Easy to do if you forgot the insulator when you replaced it. Check continuity between the metal tab and the heat sink itself.

-Ian
Click to expand...

Okay through testing I got 159VDC for B+, for the HOT continuity is 0.
 
sohchx said:
Okay through testing I got 159VDC for B+, for the HOT continuity is 0.
Click to expand...

159VDC will put that monitor into HV shutdown. Since you get static for a split second that would indicate that the HOT should be good. If it were bad you would know it thanks to a bright blown fuse everytime you power up.

I'd pull the voltage regulator and look for shorts between its pins.

Matt
 
"Made in China = Garbage... :p "

I see, that's a rather narrow, racist and very foolish view don't you think? I'll give you one example here:

chinagirl.jpg


OK, so that's a bit sexist on my part - I suggest you read a book (written by an American - Sara Bongiorni [good American name there]) entitled "A Year Without Made in China".

Her family discovered it simply wasn't possible.

Where do you think ALL pushbuttons and 60in1 PCBs, power supplies, CRTs not to mention practically anything to do with arcade stuff these days comes from?

If it was all still Made in America none of us could afford any of it so I say THANKS to the Chinese.

I am an electronics technician with 40 years experience and I think the majority of current Chinese electronics is certainly on par with that made in Korea or perhaps even Japan!
 
Homepin said:
"Made in China = Garbage... :p "

I see, that's a rather narrow, racist and very foolish view don't you think? I'll give you one example here:

I am an electronics technician with 40 years experience and I think the majority of current Chinese electronics is certainly on par with that made in Korea or perhaps even Japan!
Click to expand...

What ever it is that your smoking I want some! Are you being serious??

While its true that there are some quality products coming out of china most of the stuff I have to fix after only being out in service for less then 6 months has the words "Made in China" on them some where. Its cheap shit being made with cheaper shit, bottom line... Whenever one of my kids toys fails after only a few uses I ask them to look where it was made. Guess where... China

I too am an Electronics tech but I only have 25 years (well 26 in a few months). I've never seen such poor quality stuff as I'm seeing now.

I stick to what I said, Made in China = garbage... I try to stay away from stuff thats made there as much as possible and I'm teaching my kids to do the same. I for one long for the days when one could read "Hecho in Mexico" on most products.

Japanese electronics were always more reliable then the stuff coming from China. I think I even have some 12+ year old PC mother boards that were built in Japan and they still work. I'm lucky to get 12 months out of the current crop of Chinese mobo's.

Your welcome to your opinion. I'm not being racist, I'm being truthful.

BTW, that chick is hot!!! She's one of the quality products that I was talking about. :)

Matt
 
Homepin said:
"Made in China = Garbage... :p "

Where do you think ALL pushbuttons and 60in1 PCBs, power supplies, CRTs not to mention practically anything to do with arcade stuff these days comes from?
Click to expand...

Ugh... Power supplies and 60-in-1's are your example of quality products? You mean the power supplies that fail within 2 months?

FWIW, I dont think the 60-n-1's represent any sort of quality. They are simply bootleg boards that happen to be built in China because they are cheap to build there. Those boards suck BTW. Crap sound, bad emulation. Yuck!

Lets talk CRTs... I wonder where Electrohome had the GO7 tubes built. Wasnt it Japan? How many GO7's are still out working with great pictures? Hmmm??? Now lets look at newer monitors with tubes made in China. Look who needs a new monitor in less then three years because the picture is fading!!! LOL! What a joke!

Buttons, ok fine. A simple product with NO ELECTRONICS in them other then a mechanical switch. I'm sure the plastic is filled with lead and other poisons though.

Lets talk light bulbs... You can watch as those crappy Eiko's and CEC's burn out within HOURS of installation! Yeah, I said hours not months. Put it side by side with a GE bulb and theres no comparison. I shopped a WMS Corvette in 2006. It STILL had some factory GE's in it. Whats that, 9 years? Or is it 10? You'll never get that from a Chinese bulb.

I do like Chinese food!

Rant off, for now.
 
Did you pull that resistor in the back corner of the board OFF of the board and test it? If your B+ is shooting high right away your missing some sort of load some where. Are you still getting the static from the tube upon power up or is the monitor totally dead now?
 
gamefixer said:
Did you pull that resistor in the back corner of the board OFF of the board and test it? If your B+ is shooting high right away your missing some sort of load some where. Are you still getting the static from the tube upon power up or is the monitor totally dead now?
Click to expand...

Resistor? Can you give me a number location of the component your speaking of,more specific than "the back corner"? Yes,I still get the static at power up.
 
The resistor is R103. But, if your still getting the static upon power up then its probably good. I suppose you could check it for the heck of it, its 2.7 ohms.

Hmm... The fact that it was working before you capped it tells me that you need to go back over your work. I'm sure you've already done that a million times but there has to be something there.

With the power off, remove one of the wires off of that large resistor on the side of the chassis and measure it. It should be 220 ohms from the looks of the schematics.

Matt
 
gamefixer said:
The resistor is R103. But, if your still getting the static upon power up then its probably good. I suppose you could check it for the heck of it, its 2.7 ohms.

Hmm... The fact that it was working before you capped it tells me that you need to go back over your work. I'm sure you've already done that a million times but there has to be something there.

With the power off, remove one of the wires off of that large resistor on the side of the chassis and measure it. It should be 220 ohms from the looks of the schematics.

Matt
Click to expand...

Will do!! I'll get back to you shortly.Thanks
 
Forgive me for jumping in here, but...

I did one a while back and when I pulled the chassis to do the cap kit, I took the neckboard with it. In order to pull the neckboard, I had to cut the ground wire. I almost forgot to reattach it, but then did.

Could it be that simple? Or maybe different things would happen if that ground wire wasn't attached?

Or maybe the connectors on the chassis for the neckboard aren't fully seated? They're a bitch to plug in sometimes, depending on whether or not you removed them. Also, what if the focus (black) wire from the flyback isn't fully seated into the neck socket?

Little things like this are why my chassis don't work when I put them back (well, now they do!) because I overlook the little things occassionally. Probably because I need better light in my garage, and probably because most of my work is done late at night with a few beers.

Either way, hope this helps.
 
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