Did a caps kit,got no neck glow

sohchx

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I did a cap kit and flyback on my WGk7000 today. When I fired it up I get the static noise from the monitor but no neck glow,no picture. Game now plays blind. I have checked the polarity of my caps at least 5 times and every thing is correct. I just don't get it,I should have left it alone. I also have 120 going into the chassis. What do you guys think?
 
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make sure you didnt crack the hv shutdown pot. Verify you have the proper caps installed next to the pot and make sure they are int he proper orientation
 
Pfft. Ignore those guys. :D

Let's start from the beginning:

1) What is your B+ measuring?

2) Does the monitor sound like it's turning on at first then go dead?

3) Did you test/replace the VR during the rebuild?

4) Did you test/replace the HOT during the rebuild?

5) If you remove D10, will it fire up?
 
Pfft. Ignore those guys. :D

Let's start from the beginning:

1) What is your B+ measuring?

2) Does the monitor sound like it's turning on at first then go dead?

3) Did you test/replace the VR during the rebuild?

4) Did you test/replace the HOT during the rebuild?

5) If you remove D10, will it fire up?

Thanks for chiming in, I am new when it comes to chassis troubleshooting so bare with me. I typically send stuff out for repair but I'd rather learn by doing things myself.The game played perfectly fine besides the sparking FB before I did any of this. How can such a simple job make things go wrong if everything is done correctly?

1) Is B+ measured from the porcelain thing on hanging on the side of the chassis and if so how is the process performed?

2) The monitor makes the typical static crackling sound when powered up but no neck glow.

3) I have not tested or replaced the VR as it did not come with the kit

4) Is the HOT the component with three legs that is screwed onto the heatsink with the FB behind it? If so that came with the kit and was replaced.

5) I have to wait until I am back home to remove D10,I will get back with the results. Just to confirm,Is D10 a semiconductor diode 1N914B?
 
I already posted that the flyback is new,all work was performed today

Just because it is new, it doesn't mean it didn't crack when you first applied power. Making assumptions is a sure way to miss problems and waste time, best to rule out everything it can be first. Also, poor soldering technique can still lead to bad joins even if you *just* did the work.

If I had a dollar for every time... etc.
 
And, you say you get the static sound when you turn on the monitor, but does the HV stay up? i.e., can you feel the HV on the face of the tube? Go over your work, make sure the flyback is soldered in properly, that you didn't short the HOT to the heat sink when you replaced it, things like that. And, of course, check your B+ voltage - it might be going into shutdown.

-Ian
 
Do you have the yoke connector pushed all the way down? I had this happen on a medium res monitor in a Toobin once. I just didn't have the yoke connector pushed down tight. Could also be the video connector/ header. Check the simple things first. Then follow Mod's guide.
 
Just because it is new, it doesn't mean it didn't crack when you first applied power. Making assumptions is a sure way to miss problems and waste time, best to rule out everything it can be first. Also, poor soldering technique can still lead to bad joins even if you *just* did the work.

If I had a dollar for every time... etc.

Well,I can assure you one thing,my soldering technique is not poor as I have been doing it for 22 years and also do it as a proffession on a daily basis.
 
Other than the caps and fly, did you resolder anything else? I personally go over the chassis very well, but solder every joint on the neckboard, just because.

Check every joint in the heater circuit. I had this happen once (same symptoms you're describing) but once I did that it fired right up.
 
Other than the caps and fly, did you resolder anything else? I personally go over the chassis very well, but solder every joint on the neckboard, just because.

Check every joint in the heater circuit. I had this happen once (same symptoms you're describing) but once I did that it fired right up.

As standard procedure I never reflow joints,I completely desolder them and then resolder. I resoldered all of the molex connectors and all of the smaller joints on the board under a scope so if it is cold would definately have caught it. Good ideo on the neckboard,I'll do that,thank you.
 
Would the wrong FB or defective one cause this? Does the FB have anything to do with producing neck glow?

It *could* be a bad flyback. But I'm sure it's not... And yes, the flyback does produce the heater voltage in the K7000.

Is this monitor going into an Atari Kangaroo? 'cause you're really jumping to conclusions here. Stop. Take a deep breath. Open your eyes, and do the basic troubleshooting outlined here. You'll find your problem. Randomly swapping parts isn't how you fix things :D

-Ian
 
It *could* be a bad flyback. But I'm sure it's not... And yes, the flyback does produce the heater voltage in the K7000.

Is this monitor going into an Atari Kangaroo? 'cause you're really jumping to conclusions here. Stop. Take a deep breath. Open your eyes, and do the basic troubleshooting outlined here. You'll find your problem. Randomly swapping parts isn't how you fix things :D

-Ian

It's for an APB cab. I was thinking of putting the old flyback back in just to see if it was the issue. It's just so infuriating to go from a working to game to a non-working game just by trying to improve it's performance.
 
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It's for an APB cab. I was thinking of putting the old flyback back in just to see if it was the issue. It's just so infuriating to go from a working to game to a non-working game just by trying to improve it's performance.

Putting a flyback with a crack in it back in there is just going to be a waste of time. You need to go through and check the things we've asked you to check. What's the B+ voltage? Is the HV staying up, or does it just pulse at poweron? Is the HOT shorted to the heat sink? Are the solder joints in the heater circuit good?

We're trying to help, but you're not making it very easy :D

-Ian
 
Questions for Modessit, As I said earlier I am a chassis Noob when it comes to troubleshooting. As per your steps posted above how do I perform the following?

Measure B+

Test the VR

Test the HOT

Test HV

Why is none of this posted in the K7000 troubleshooting guide sticky? Would have avoided me having to post in the first place. I appreciate everyone here trying to help thanks.
 
We're trying to help, but you're not making it very easy :D

-Ian

Yeah I'm sorry for that. I just feel like as long as I have been into this hobby I should know all of this shit by now,but being that my games never give me issues and always work I have'nt learned much troubleshooting yet. It just frustrates me to have to be walked through something that is so simple to everyone else.
 
Why is none of this posted in the K7000 troubleshooting guide sticky? Would have avoided me having to post in the first place. I appreciate everyone here trying to help thanks.

Probably because a lot of it is in the manual.

But in your case, start by testing the B+ - according to the manual, the test point is at IC4, pin 4, or on the neckboard, P202, pin 3. You're looking for 123VDC

EDIT: To clarify, set your meter to read DC volts. Connect the black lead to the metal frame of the monitor, connect the red lead to EITHER of the two test points listed above.

Another thing you should check is to see if the HOT is shorted to the heat sink. Easy to do if you forgot the insulator when you replaced it. Check continuity between the metal tab and the heat sink itself.

-Ian
 
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Probably because a lot of it is in the manual.

But in your case, start by testing the B+ - according to the manual, the test point is at IC4, pin 4, or on the neckboard, P202, pin 3. You're looking for 123VDC

-Ian

I have the manual at home what page did you get this from?
 
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