Did a cap kit on my k7000 WG, now it won't turn on?

john rainbo

Active member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
1,314
Reaction score
7
Location
Illinois
Did a cap kit on my k7000 WG, now it won't turn on?

I have no neck glow at all. None. This isn't the first cap kit I've done. So what happened, here? Is it possible I'm not getting that anod cap in all the way? The kit went well, but I have no power or neck glow what so ever. Any ideas?
 
Have you checked the fuse on the chassis?

Follow the flowchart...

wg-k7000-flo.jpg


- Mike
 
some times when you do a cap kip something else goes bad...sounds to me like a flyback.
Just remember when you put new parts in... old parts will go out...
It could be a voltage reg that went out if not the fuse.but if the fuse is bad then check the voltage reg but if fuse is good then check the flyback.
this is the best i can do i hope i helped
 
When flybacks go, they usually go with great audio/visual clue, eg smoke and/or fire.

If it's one with white knobs, it should be replaced regardless.

I've said this before, I'm sure I'll say it again: when you cap a monitor, also go over it and touch up all the solder joints too. Your iron is already hot, and the chassis is already out.
 
Thing that pisses me off is I know I did a good job on the caps and everything. Man, what a sad situation. I didn't see anything that would indicated the flyback is gone, but it's possible, I guess.
 
I checked the B+ resistor on the side, which is actually 180 ohms, 25 w.... not what the flow chart says. It's showing 108v right now. It's steady, so I don't know if that's the issue (even though that's not the values the flow chart suggests).

And so, following the flow chart, it says that the other end should be 145... it's 109. So, it says the C55 Cap could be bad, which is the huge power filter looking cap. Could this really have gone out replacing the other caps? I don't have a monster 200v 560 uf cap on hand, I'm sorry to say.
 
Last edited:
Yes, it could be that C55 cap, I've had them do that before. Also could be the voltage regulator. If you replace both, you'll probably be golden.
 
Yes, it could be that C55 cap, I've had them do that before. Also could be the voltage regulator. If you replace both, you'll probably be golden.

Two caps that I didn't replace. Damn. I will try to replace them first, then see what happens. This sucks, as the monitor looked pretty good before messing with it. I just wanted it to look really nice, and this is what happened instead! lol
 
The voltage regulator isn't a cap, it's the transistor looking thing with 5 legs or so mounted on the heat sink in the corner, behind the flyback. It's what makes your B+ the right number.
 
well we dug into it today and we were able to fix it. FIrst i fixed a bunch of cracked solder, a few possible solder bridges, and replaced all the caps steve did not replace inclusing the big filter cap. Still no dice, this thing wouldnt even try to power on... fuse stil good.


following the fromm flowchart we found no b+. following down as to the cause mr fromm suggested checking r103. We found r103 was totally open. Its weired because ive seen r103s fail in the past, but usually catastrophically with a big crack or carbon tracks etc.. this one looked great but was just plain open.

We replaced that and she lit right up, looks great, the jailbars he was after are gone too.
 
Last edited:
I see you want a WTB/trade for 25"k7000 chassis dead or alive. I just got one and as far as i know its dead.I can tell its been worked on before its got 2 caps on back side and resistor on top of resistor.When hooked up all it does on screen is green.
PM me if you still looking for k7000.
 
Back
Top Bottom