Defender RAM compatibility?

TheDrewster

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I just got done rewiring my Defender tonight and the harness I purchased came with a 4164 adapter. Unsure if I needed it, I looked at my boards and I saw that all the RAM were 4716, with no modifications to the traces on the rear. The boardset has been working without issue so fart, but it had an ATX-style Happ Power Pro hacked in, so I dont know if it was supplying any special voltages to the board for these RAMs or not.

I guess what I want to know is that if I were to put the original power supply back in (which I am awaiting delivery of), will I need any sort of adapter or special voltages for this board to continue working?
 
Post the whole chip part # to be sure. NTE seems to think it's a tri-voltage DRAM chip, but I'd like to look up the whole part #.
 
The benefit of running the 4164, with adapter, is the lack of needing the 12v line, and runs cooler, right? I've been considering just switching over to this on my Defender as a "hardening" precaution against future problems. Seems like a cheap thing to do, since you already have the adapter?

Hope that's not too far OT Drew, just talking out loud...
 
They draw less power, run cooler, and are more reliable since they don't use the pesky +12v line.
 
Correct.

The adapter is for use with 4517 (16k 5v only), 4164, or 41256 DRAMs.

RJ
 
If you use the adapter and change your ram to the 4164 you will be better off. Since I changed over my Robotron, I haven't had a RAM chip go bad and it has been years. I used to have to buy RAM regularly before I upgraded, and yes I consider it an upgrade.

Chuck
 
If you use the adapter and change your ram to the 4164 you will be better off. Since I changed over my Robotron, I haven't had a RAM chip go bad and it has been years. I used to have to buy RAM regularly before I upgraded, and yes I consider it an upgrade.

Chuck

Where does one get this adapter?
 
Thats really the right way to do it. You shouldn't leave unused address lines floating. Tie them either to gnd or the 5v line.

And having the adapter seems hokey. You're really just adding another point of failure to your system. A piece of copper and some solder and I'll be off to the races.

Where is the best place to source the RAM after I make this mod?
 
I prefer to do a simple mod on the board. That way you don't have to worry about using some adaptor (or forgetting to and frying your RAM).

http://www.scoresaves.com/misc/JustSayNoTo4116.html

[soapbox mode]
If you do any of these mods to the board (or if you just use an adapter), please for the love of gawd LABEL THE FRICKIN' BOARD, so when you send it out for repairs the person doing the repairs knows what you did to the board.

I get these frankenbutchered boards in all the time with no warning messages on them and the owners, in most cases, don't even know the mods were ever done (they were done by previous owners, who may or may not have informed the current owners). If I'm tired I may not find the mod since
"someone would have to look really hard to know that a change was ever made".

[/soapbox mode]

ken
 
OK sheesh! ;) I'll label it already! :thumbs_up:

Looks like TwistyWrist is where it's at again...

PM sent to Ken.


[soapbox mode]
If you do any of these mods to the board (or if you just use an adapter), please for the love of gawd LABEL THE FRICKIN' BOARD, so when you send it out for repairs the person doing the repairs knows what you did to the board.

I get these frankenbutchered boards in all the time with no warning messages on them and the owners, in most cases, don't even know the mods were ever done (they were done by previous owners, who may or may not have informed the current owners). If I'm tired I may not find the mod since


[/soapbox mode]

ken
 
Or ferchrissake....it takes 2 seconds to look at the ram and determine its type. It takes 20 seconds with a meter to see whats goin' on at the power connector.

Cutting the -5/12v traces at the header is the easiest way to insure no triple supply gets to the board despite a "stock" power connector.
 
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