Defender multi Williams control panel issue

i86time

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So I've been sitting on a JROK and the parts for a Defender multi control panel for 4 years now and finally decided to make it. I'm using TOGs cpo and plexi, GGG Superpro leaf sticks and Ultimarc's Goldleaf buttons. I cut the panel to match the plexi but have run into a couple issues.

The first is that the Hyperspace button sits to near the edge of the cp such that when the button is installed the control panel will not fit. I figured out this was due to the plexi/cpo spacing, placing the hole a bit over 1/4" nearer the edge, combined with the larger button/nut that I am using. I could probably alleviate this by using a standard small leaf button, but I may just sand/chisel some space to get it to fit. I was just curious if anyone else out there using TOGs cpo/plexi and something other than the original button types noticed the same thing.

The more vexing issue has to do with the joystick bases. When they are installed the control panel again will not fit properly as the edge of the base nearest the monitor come into contact with the lip that the control panel sits on. The Superpros have the 'standard' footprint of 3.5"x 3.15". Even when the base is turned so that the wider side is parallel to the cp edge, there's just not enough room. I've seen at least a couple multi Defenders on here using TOGs cpo, but none of them have mentioned this issue. The only way I can see them fitting would be to move the base about 1/4", but this would be noticeable as the joystick hole would no longer be centered within the graphic and would not work with the TOG plexi. Again, I can probably cope/chisel out a bit and have it fit fine, but wanted to see if anyone else had this issue and what they did.
 
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I ran into the same problem as well. I had to notch out the cabinet to get the joystick bases to fit. I also had to notch my joystick bases to make room for the flap button as well. I just bought a set of Groovy Games Dominus8 leaf switch sticks. and I'm going to remake the panel to move the flap button over another 3/8 inch. I just sent TOG a request to move the text over on their CPO to accommodate.
 
Thanks for the confirmation, I figured it had to be more common.

I think I've settled in on routing out the cp from underneath to accommodate the joystick base. It raises the stick up about 1/4" which is a bit higher than what I wanted, but will be less destructive to the cab. I'll have to shave off a bit of both joystick bases to make room for buttons, but with these long 1-1/8" buttons the nut that holds it will also cover that edge of the base and secure it a bit.

Did you secure the joystick bases from the underside with a screw or did you countersink a small bolt from above and a nut underneath? I still have to clear out a bit of the wood above the coin door to make room for the Hyperspace button. If that was up another 3/8" or so it would be fine, but that would require TOG to re-do the CPO as well.
 
For my mult cp I used T-Nuts to secure my joysticks.
That is how Williams did it. This way they can be removed if needed.
 
I used wood screws and they keep the sticks solidly in place. I thought about t-nuts, but then I would need to figure out what to cover with so they don't show through the CPO when applied to the wood.
 
I 've decided to use flush mount threaded inserts in the cp to attach the base which will allow me to remove the base if I am unhappy with the stick height (but only to raise, not lower, if that'll even happen) without tearing up the wood with inserting/removing screws. I cut the cpo, but will not adhere it to the cp, instead sandwiching it between plexi and using #6-5/8" screws in the corners, so I won't have to worry about any imperfections in the cp surface.
 
I used wood screws and they keep the sticks solidly in place. I thought about t-nuts, but then I would need to figure out what to cover with so they don't show through the CPO when applied to the wood.

I routed the face of the cp down 1/8" and put plex over it.
I sanded and primed it then appplied the cpo on top of the plex.
It was a Joust type cp but a flat defender would be easier.
A Defender you could cut the plex just short of where the cp enters the cab.
I glued and used nuts and bolts to attach the plex but the glue was probably enough. I then bondoed over the bolt holes and primed.
If you are attaching the cpo plex with nuts and bolts then gluing isn't necessary.
Another reason I did it this way was to put the dust washers below the cpo. The last pic is the finished cp.
 

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I've also have a JROK board in a Defender cabinet with TOG's cpo and plexi.

Fitting things in the Defender cp is a bit of a squeeze. My Defender's rear control panel support was already cut for the original 2 way joystick. I had to make a cutout for the second joystick on the MultiWilliams control panel. I've got the GGG Leaf Pro joysticks (kinda meh). I routed out the bottom of the control panel to mount them to get them to a height that kinda works with both Defender/Joust and Robotron.

The TOG cpo's Hyperspace button is placed about 1/4 inch lower than the original Defender control panel. My Hyperspace button is also right up against the front of the cabinet. I'm using all leaf switches so it fits ok.
 

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I've also have a JROK board in a Defender cabinet with TOG's cpo and plexi.

Fitting things in the Defender cp is a bit of a squeeze. My Defender's rear control panel support was already cut for the original 2 way joystick. I had to make a cutout for the second joystick on the MultiWilliams control panel. I've got the GGG Leaf Pro joysticks (kinda meh). I routed out the bottom of the control panel to mount them to get them to a height that kinda works with both Defender/Joust and Robotron.

The TOG cpo's Hyperspace button is placed about 1/4 inch lower than the original Defender control panel. My Hyperspace button is also right up against the front of the cabinet. I'm using all leaf switches so it fits ok.

Thanks for that info, that's basically how I figured it would be had I used short leaf buttons. I hope the GGG SuperPro's will be OK. I picked up the ball top stick for them which allows for an adjustable height. The way I set up the cp they're at the lowest point now, so I can only go up. I liked the height with the sticks surface mounted underneath, but it was not meant to be for now. Worst case scenario, I just cut another cp....
 
This thread was a great find, I have a Defender that was converted to MK1. I have all the parts to do a Multi-Williams de-conversion with the Gamma-1 pcb and I guess I'll be running into these same issues.

I found some old transparent leaf buttons and switches I'll be using for the restore, but for the joysticks I've been on the fence. I have some NOS Happ/IL sticks that were made for Defender (they were 2-way but I added the missing microswitches and now they are 4-way), I was planning to used these but was tempted by the GGG leafs. Can you give more feedback on the GGG?
 
I have the Groovy Game Gear Leaf Pro joysticks. I wanted to keep things all leaf for my MultiWilliams. Compared to a Wico the Leaf Pros offer less resistance and are looser. Ok for Defender/Stargate/Joust but so-so for Robotron. With the bottom of my cp routed out the joysticks are a decent compromise in height for all the games. As discussed you need to do some cutting to make things fit. I didn't try any other stick out.

Since my cabinet is in my classroom it's mainly used by my students. I'm the only one who notices/cares. The kids seem to have fun. We'll see how they hold up.

Let us know what you end up doing.
 
I finally finished my CP. I haven't been this frustrated with a project since putting up crown molding. A bunch of little things that just added up. I'll never be a serious Defender or Robotron player, but the stick height seems like a good compromise.
 

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Robo is best with tall sticks.
Defender/Stargate is best with a short two-way stick.
Too much compromise for me. But I also live with this on my WMS Multi.
Glad I have a dedicated Stargate with the original stick.
Glad I have a dedicated Robotron with proper WICO sticks too.
I find I play the dedicated machines more than the WMS Multi. :(
 
Yep, love the Multi-Williams but can't stand that cluttered CP. I'm working toward a Defender with original guts but will have a JROK in there as well. The plan is to have the original Defender dedicated CP and make extras to drop in for the other games: one for Defender/Stargate that will add in the inviso, make a separate one for Robotron with the proper sticks...though as costs add up I may compromise on that point and go for the shorter Wicos, and one for Blaster/Sinistar with a 49-way.

A lot of work but a better gaming experience plus, I'll have all those nice panels hanging about as additional decor!
 
The panel looks good. How are the joysticks?

I agree that having a multi game panel involves a lot of compromises. I set mine up mainly for the convenience of my students so they can try the different games out. They don't know the difference.

For when I want a more authentic experience I am building swappable panels. So far I have a Joust and Defender/Stargate almost done. I had This Old Game print a custom Joust overlay and had the Defender cpo sitting on a shelf in the closet so I just needed to add the Inviso button. After I finish up some other projects I might make a Robotron panel with Wico sticks. I'm using an ATX power supply connector to make swapping easy.
 

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The panel looks good. How are the joysticks?

After a week I noticed it'll take some getting used to, but it isn't bad. I installed the ball top shafts with my SuperPro (I don't think the Dominux was produced when I bought these) and on Defender/Stargate it is odd. Even at the lowest height (where I have it currently), it's a bit awkward. When doing the 'curl one finger above and other below' the stick requires a bit more hand movement to activate the switches than with a normal CP and the ball top is 1) larger and 2) at an odd height compared to the original . The SuperPros don't require a lot of force though and the switches seem to engage early on in the sticks travel, so it's not like you have to slam it 100% up or down. With the bat stick the SuperPro came with it may be easier to use but I doubt I'll test it.

Like I said, I'm not setting any records, but this setup seems to be fine for Joust and Robotron.

I agree that having a multi game panel involves a lot of compromises. I set mine up mainly for the convenience of my students so they can try the different games out. They don't know the difference.

For when I want a more authentic experience I am building swappable panels. So far I have a Joust and Defender/Stargate almost done. I had This Old Game print a custom Joust overlay and had the Defender cpo sitting on a shelf in the closet so I just needed to add the Inviso button. After I finish up some other projects I might make a Robotron panel with Wico sticks. I'm using an ATX power supply connector to make swapping easy.

I still have my stock Defender CP and I bought the Gold Age/wildfire JROK harness and it came with the Defender adapter, so I can swap it in as well.
 
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