Defender Issues

ringwar

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I just got a Defender today. Upon power up it says

"Press Advance to step thru test press highscore reset to make change"

The manual says to

1. Set switch to Manual-Down
2. Depress Advance to display function 28
3. Set switch to Auto-Up Depress advnace.

Then the game goes to:

"Press Advance with switch auto for game over manual to step thru Adjustment"

What am i dong wrong, I got it from a guy that said it worked good up until a few months ago. I can't get this thing to boot to the game, I checked the battery it has a 3.6v charge.

Any ideas?
 
Check to make sure you have contiuity to ground on the auto-up button. It may not be recognising the switch changing state.

ken
 
Ken, It does. The auto-up button works. When i do what it says to restart the game, it tries to boot but then goes back to the same test screen. I'm thinking it might be a power supply issue. So i ordered a rebuild kit from Bob Roberts.

Check to make sure you have contiuity to ground on the auto-up button. It may not be recognising the switch changing state.

ken
 
Well i checked the voltages and this is what i got.

4J2
1 -5vdc
2KEY
3 12vdc
4 -15vdc
5 15vdc
6 15vdc
7 0
8 0
9 0
10 0
11 0
12 5vdc
13 5vdc
14 5vdc
15 5vdc

4J3
1 9.3 vac
2 9.3 vac
3 33vdc
4
5Key
6
 
That could also be a sign that there is an error with the 5101 CMOS RAM chip.

Another common cause is that the ROM board ribbon cable needs to be recrimped. It is not uncommon for the wires to pull away from the connectors on the ribbon cables as that is where most people grab to pull the connector off.

Here is a link to a good tutorial on how to use a vise to recrimp the cable: http://www.arcadesolution.com/ribbon.html

Just skip the part about cutting the ribbon cable, unless you are going to actually replace it.

ken
 
Thanks, I will give that a try also. I have a power supply kit and monitor cap kit coming from Bob Roberts. This has one of those rechargeable batteries on it. Am i better off installing a lithium battery kit? This is my first Williams game and i don't really have any experiences on them maintenance wise.

That could also be a sign that there is an error with the 5101 CMOS RAM chip.

Another common cause is that the ROM board ribbon cable needs to be recrimped. It is not uncommon for the wires to pull away from the connectors on the ribbon cables as that is where most people grab to pull the connector off.

Here is a link to a good tutorial on how to use a vise to recrimp the cable: http://www.arcadesolution.com/ribbon.html

Just skip the part about cutting the ribbon cable, unless you are going to actually replace it.

ken
 
If it truely has a rechageable battery (and not just a big lithium battery) on it, make sure the diodes are in place before you do the lithium battery mod. Lithium batteries are not rechargable and I have heard of them exploding when the diodes where removed.

ken
 
Rebuilt the power supply today. Voltages are good. But alas still no workie. And some times the advance button works, some times it doesn't do anything(checked switches with a meter they are good) so i am leaning towards the recrimp of the ribbon cable. I am going to buy a nice new little bench vice in the morning to try that re-crimping.
 
Well it wasn't the power supply, or ribbon cables. This Pinx's arcade has the same issue i have that the game was stuck in book keeping. He replaced the 5101 and 4071 CMOS, My 5101 has already been replaced and socketed by an older repair so I found some 4071 on ebay(these were tough to find) and i'll be installing a dual wipe socket and new ic for that one. If it still doesn't work Bob Roberts sells the 5101 ic,

 
When the 5101 fails it gets really hot in most cases, leave the game powered up for a couple of minutes and do the touch test on the 5101.
 
Replaced and Socketed the 4071. No dice. Same issue won't leave book keeping. 5101 doesn't get hot and has been replaced by someone previously but i'm going to replace it anyways.

Well it wasn't the power supply, or ribbon cables. This Pinx's arcade has the same issue i have that the game was stuck in book keeping. He replaced the 5101 and 4071 CMOS, My 5101 has already been replaced and socketed by an older repair so I found some 4071 on ebay(these were tough to find) and i'll be installing a dual wipe socket and new ic for that one. If it still doesn't work Bob Roberts sells the 5101 ic,
 
Replaced the 5101, recapped board, installed 2032 lithium battery kit. Still the same issue. Won't leave bookkeeping. I think this board will being going out for repair. I don't know what to do next except replace all the ram.
 
1 Good thing happened today. I had purchased an untested CPU last week off of sleezebay. Came in today. Tested it and RAM FAILURE!!!!!!!!!!!. SO i pulled all the 4116 off and swapped them out from my non-working CPU and SHABAM!!! I now have a working Defender CPU!!! I still don't know hat the issue with my original CPU is, but at least i can play Defender now!!
 
Defender PCB fixed! it was the 7404 causing my bookkeeping issue. Now i have 2 working Defender CPU's.
 
OK, well it's been about 16 months since I originally had this issue with my Defender, now tonight I had the same problem. But since I now am running a lithium battery my Defender boots right up bypassing bookkeeping(door closed). Tried to coin up a game... nothing. Opened the door restarted game. Booted right up(when it should have went into bookkeeping) and still wouldn't load a credit. SO then I removed the battery to force into book keeping. This time it boots to book keeping and wouldn't leave. So I figured it something was amiss with the 7404 again. I pulled it and tested it with my little chinese ttl tester.... bad. Tested a spare 7404 and it tested good. Installed the new 7404 and bam! Game works again. Now getting to my question. What could make a IC go bad that fast? I would assume if it was a power issue I would have other bad ttls. Any ideas?
 
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