Defender Control Panel pics

sfluter

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An original is pretty hard to come by, but I think I have everything I need to reproduce one. I am just after some detailed pics of an original. I googled the living crap out of this, but never came across what I needed to make it as original as possible. It may seem like obvious questions to most of you, but any help is appreciated. I have a nice wood base, I am pretty sure I have the original trim (no photos of this I could find to confirm) and am planning on adhering a decal to the bottom of a lexan panel to finish it. Not original, but since there is a Jrok multi going in it to start original is more of a long term goal. I just want to get it up and running for now. I can post pics of what I have if that helps.
 
The easiest way to do this would be to buy the nice silk screened reproduction from Arcadeshop:

def-cpo.jpg


Once purchased, cut a piece of plywood to exact size of CPO, use CPO as a template to drill holes, route T-molding groove on front edge, and cut back edge at an angle to come up even against the bezel. It also is the best way to get the 2-way stick to mount correctly and not show.
 
HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!! Sorry I just fell out of my chair. I ordered an overlay from them on Dec. 10 and I still haven't got it. Luckily there is an outstanding printing company near me that does polycarbonate or really any kind of printing you want. I'd really like to complete this sometime in my lifetime, so I think I'll forgot about going the Arcadeshop route. I realize it isn't their problem once it is shipped, but come on!


The easiest way to do this would be to buy the nice silk screened reproduction from Arcadeshop:


The rest of the advice is great. Any advice on the trim on the long sides of the panel?
 
Thanks for the link to that thread, pretty much everything I need to finish it off. Thanks!

One last question. Is there plexi/lexan on top of the cpo, or is just a polycarbonate faceplate on the plywood? Pics of originals look like there is a layer of plexi, it appears to be shiny.
 
I hate refer people to other forums but this might be up your alley. I found them since I am restoring a Defender cabinet to a JROK Multi-williams too (as soon as the IRS sends me my check). Read that thread below for TONS of information and pics.

I was looking for that thread and pic but couldn't find it. That is exactly what he needs.

As far as getting another printer to print one of these up for you, I don't feel that you will ever be satisfied with the result. The original CPO was reverse screened directly onto the underside of a thin piece of plexi with adhesive under it. There really isn't a good way to replicate that with a printout on paper and then plexi on top. You would have to put some carriage bolts in to hold down the plexi. Then you still have the issue of dust and crap getting between the artwork and plexi. I would do whatever you need to do to get your CPO from Arcadeshop. Have you contacted them and let them know that you haven't received it? Try to talk him in to filing a claim and sending you another one. I believe there is a phone number on his site somewhere.
 
That's what I thought. Does anyone know of a repro made in this manner? I was going to have one printed and have adhesive applied front and back so that I could attach it to the plywood without carriage bolts (which I hate!) but that is the best I could come up with. I have read a bit on silk-screening onto plexi, and it doesn't sound like a lot of fun, especially with that many colors. Time to do some more digging.

Thanks for all the response to this thread, I have figured out bunch. Most interesting tidbit to this point is that there is a piece of trim extending from the bottom of the bezel that butts against the control panel (which luckily I seem to have). I haven't seen that on another game, although I am sure Defender isn't the only game.
 
Make sure and read that whole thread with the control panel measurements. I think I posted some corrections to some of the measurements.
 
That's what I thought. Does anyone know of a repro made in this manner? I was going to have one printed and have adhesive applied front and back so that I could attach it to the plywood without carriage bolts (which I hate!) but that is the best I could come up with. I have read a bit on silk-screening onto plexi, and it doesn't sound like a lot of fun, especially with that many colors. Time to do some more digging.

The one from ArcadeShop is exactly that. Anything less is not a "repro", it would be lame.... And like the original, you attach it to your panel using contact cement or spray adhesive.
 
The one from ArcadeShop is exactly that. Anything less is not a "repro", it would be lame....

Okay, now I get it. I was looking at arcadeoverlays.com and thinking "this guys on crack, that sure as heck looks like polycarbonate to me!". Now that I at the right site, it does look pretty much bang on.

See, now you've done it. You've got me looking up new leaf switches and buttons. What's next? Thank God I have an original bezel and marquee otherwise this restore could start getting expensive. The cab was free though, so I shouldn't complain.
 
I was just thinking the same thing.....just measured one and it's only 8" deep, not 9", etc.

Yep... my mistake... it is 1" off on the depth... I never got around to correcting the drawings. I probably measured the distance starting at the 1" mark on the ruler...derr :(

I really don't care for the ArcadeShop repro overlay... the material is rubbery and soft... and the colors are not right. It's the best we have right now but it really is nothing like the original.
 
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I really don't care for the ArcadeShop repro overlay... the material is rubbery and soft... and the colors are not right. It's the best we have right now but it really is nothing like the original.

I've seen a repro (made several years ago) that is pretty much spot-on with the original... I assumed that it was what ArcadeShop is selling. If that is not the case then I am sorry if I have misled anyone.
 
I've seen a repro (made several years ago) that is pretty much spot-on with the original... I assumed that it was what ArcadeShop is selling. If that is not the case then I am sorry if I have misled anyone.

I was surprised when I received my repro overlay... it looks good its just a strange material, very soft. The registration was a little bit off from the original too.. which made it a pain to fit nicely. It looked way better than the cigarette burned crap that was on there though.
 
Most interesting tidbit to this point is that there is a piece of trim extending from the bottom of the bezel that butts against the control panel (which luckily I seem to have). I haven't seen that on another game, although I am sure Defender isn't the only game.

If you mean what I think you mean, lots of Williams games had this trim, but I'm not sure that all Defenders did. Mine doesn't have it and I've seen plenty of pics of Defenders without it, though I've also seen some with it. Arcadeshop sells this piece too.
 
Well I just started ripping down the cabinet tonight. Always interesting what you find in these cabinets that were converted into something else. I found pinout sheets for a game called Hyper Sports in the bottom, along with evidence of mouse habitation and probably a handful of nuts and bolts that have nothing to do with the original game. No tokens or quarters though, which is a first for me! Amazing how these machines get hacked over the course of their life. Oh, and the gigantic lock bar across the coin door was a nice touch too.

I find with repros that the colors are often off, by quite a bit, especially with the polycarbonate cpo's. That thin layer of textured lexan seems to dull the colors quite a bit. The difference between what it looks like in Illustrator/Photo Shop and the final piece can be significant. But in the absence of NOS, the best I can do is take it to a local printer who can provide a test piece to check the colors against. The more input I get the more I am leaning towards going with the local printer for this project. At least I can check it before the final piece is made.

The measurements are a big help, but I am going to have to adjust them a bit. I am probably going to go to a 5/8" plywood so that I can add a 1/8" plexi to the top and still be able to run 3/4" t-molding across the front. I did this with a custom MAME control panel and it turned out really well.

I'd post pics, but like the thread said, you've all probably seen this a thousand times. The measurements are going to be a HUGE help!
 
If you mean what I think you mean, lots of Williams games had this trim, but I'm not sure that all Defenders did. Mine doesn't have it and I've seen plenty of pics of Defenders without it, though I've also seen some with it. Arcadeshop sells this piece too.

Unfortunately that trim piece on Defender is unique to Defender and there are no sources for it. Arcadeshop sells a piece that will only work with Joust/Robotron type cabinet.
 
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