Dedicated Mortal Kombat 3 monitor issues

Still getting nothing, swapped power supplies, adjusted voltages, checked fuses, nothing.... now what??? Only thing I can think of is the power off the K7000 chassis is the black and white wires, and on the harness for the MK3 there are three wires, a purple, green, and purple/yellow... which hooks up to which???
 
Still getting nothing, swapped power supplies, adjusted voltages, checked fuses, nothing.... now what??? Only thing I can think of is the power off the K7000 chassis is the black and white wires, and on the harness for the MK3 there are three wires, a purple, green, and purple/yellow... which hooks up to which???

Purple is HOT. Purple/Yellow is Neutral.
 
Well that is all good, and I grounded the green wire coming off the harness and still nothing... : (

You still haven't posted what the voltage of the power wire (purple) is.

The power supply has nothing to do with getting the monitor working. It will obviously affect the game pcb, therefor video imput to the monitor, but it will not keep the tube from getting neck glow.
 
I tested the purple wire and it would read neg like.02 then read pos like .22, then read negative, here is a picture of the multimeter, as it is I have it set to DCV 20 (there are increments of 20, 200, 2000, 2000m 200m), red wire goes to V it looks like and black is neg... is this set up right or do I need the red wire going to V....

You still haven't posted what the voltage of the power wire (purple) is.

The power supply has nothing to do with getting the monitor working. It will obviously affect the game pcb, therefor video imput to the monitor, but it will not keep the tube from getting neck glow.
 
Pictures speak a thousand words, snap a couple i bet this will be solved by tonight :D
 
I tested the purple wire and it would read neg like.02 then read pos like .22, then read negative, here is a picture of the multimeter, as it is I have it set to DCV 20 (there are increments of 20, 200, 2000, 2000m 200m), red wire goes to V it looks like and black is neg... is this set up right or do I need the red wire going to V....

Sorry I put DC voltage in a previous post, you will be using the AC voltage setting on your multimeter You just need to set your multimeter up on the 200 AC voltage setting, hook your black multimeter lead into the purple/yellow wire, and your red multimeter lead to the purple wire. You should be getting somewhere in the 115 -130 volt range IIRC.
 
Last edited:
Sorry I put DC voltage in a previous post, you will be using the AC voltage setting on your multimeter You just need to set your multimeter up on the 200 AC voltage setting, hook your black multimeter lead into the purple/yellow wire, and your red multimeter lead to the purple wire. You should be getting somewhere in the 115 -130 volt range IIRC.

On the multi meter itself there are two different plugs the red wire can go into, either one that says 10ADC or the other looks like Volts... I assume it should be in DC right??? Sorry for dumb questions, just something I've never taken the time to learn lol...
 
On the multi meter itself there are two different plugs the red wire can go into, either one that says 10ADC or the other looks like Volts... I assume it should be in DC right??? Sorry for dumb questions, just something I've never taken the time to learn lol...

That's o.k. You put the red multimeter lead into the the slot marker "V", NOT the one marked "10 AC".
 
just something I've never taken the time to learn lol...

Multimeters although they look intimidating aren't to hard to learn (tho some have 120pg booklets on use). never to late to learn.

The Count has you covered tho :D
 
I tested the purple wire and it would read neg like.02 then read pos like .22, then read negative, here is a picture of the multimeter, as it is I have it set to DCV 20 (there are increments of 20, 200, 2000, 2000m 200m), red wire goes to V it looks like and black is neg... is this set up right or do I need the red wire going to V....

The hot and neutral should be outputting 110-120V AC. You need to test with you meter set to AC.
 
The hot and neutral should be outputting 110-120V AC. You need to test with you meter set to AC.

what treborlicec means is have your red lead / probe wire in the red V plug and black lead/probe in com (ground) ofcourse.

then set your dial to AC V which on my bluepoint meter looks like a V with (~) ontop of it. my fluke meter is the same.

once you do that then


hook your black multimeter lead into the purple/yellow wire, and your red multimeter lead to the purple wire. You should be getting somewhere in the 115 -130 volt range IIRC.
 
Ok...

So I unplugged the monitor chassis black and white wires, and put the multimeter on it, go to turn the power on and nothing powers up... but when I plug the chassis back in, the game powers up but still not the monitor...
 
Ok...

So I unplugged the monitor chassis black and white wires, and put the multimeter on it, go to turn the power on and nothing powers up... but when I plug the chassis back in, the game powers up but still not the monitor...

When unplug the connector circled in the attached pic (yours will be slightly different and will likely have a white and black wire instead of two black wires) the gameboard no longer powers on??? This should not happen, unless the wiring is TOTALLY different from a dedicated MKII.

You need to post some well lit pictures of your wiring from the power chord coming in, all the way to the monitor.

Also, you should splice into the unused green wire in the original monitor connector and use it to ground the monitor frame when using a K7000 in these cabs.
 
Here are a few pics... I do have the monitor grounded because before when I didn't it would blow the monitor fuse...
 

Attachments

  • mk3 wire pics 002.jpg
    mk3 wire pics 002.jpg
    93 KB · Views: 12
  • mk3 more pics 001.jpg
    mk3 more pics 001.jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 13
Back
Top Bottom