Dedicated BurgerTime Cocktail - Arcade Icons

Griffin

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I picked up this dedicated BurgerTime cocktail as part of a operator haul. Pretty dirty and obviously not used for a very long time, I decided to take a chance and bought it untested.

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Knock a bit of that dust off, and maybe this isn't too bad (Apart from all that screen burn)

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After getting this sucker home and cleaning it up a little so I could work on it without getting covered in dust and spiders, I fired it up to see what I was dealing with.

This is the screen I was greeted with... :(

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I checked all the fuses and volts, reseated the connectors but no change, looks like this board is going to need some TLC to get it up and running again.

I pulled the board, put it on the bench and started testing for clock and CPU activity. The clock seemed good, and I was seeing CPU activity at the 6502 on the top board, so I THOUGHT that was ok (Turns out that CPU is for sound only, the actual game CPU is in a huge plastic block on the main board underneath :rolleyes: )

I went through each of the game ROMs, dumped them to file and then verified them against MAME ROMs and they all came up good too.

After asking around on KLOV my mistake was pointed out, that I hadn't tested the main CPU on the bottom board and that they often crapped out on this game. So off I went to try and address that...
 
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The CPU on the main board is called the "CPU7" which Data East encased in a plastic box and resin. There's nothing actually fancy about it, it's just a daughter board with a standard 6502 on it and various other off-the-shelf ICs

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The real problem is that the board inside the case is flooded with a hard resin so that you can't get to it...

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I did some digging around and found a tutorial here on KLOV that explains a pretty good technique for getting to the board and freeing it from all that nasty resin...

Yep, you heat it up in a pan of boiling water :eek:
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This softens up the resin enough that you can start chunking it out of the case and off the board, being careful not to damage any traces while scraping away at the green crud.

There are two screws in opposite corners of the daughter board, once you get to them you can take them out and start to pry the plastic casing off the board...

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Back in the pan for more heat to continue getting as much of the green resin away from the CPU as possible...

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After getting more of the green junk off I was able to crack out the Hakko de-soldering gun and get the old CPU off, traces seemed to survive the process thank goodness.

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Clean up all the traces and through-holes...

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New 40-pin socket

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Re-solder the stripped daughter board back onto the main board

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Alas.......STILL NOTHING. My second mistake was not testing the actual CPU7 pins before going through this 3-hour ordeal. It turns out that the clock was never making it to the CPU7 pins, so the issue remains. Now was the original 6502 bad in the CPU7? Maybe, but my crappy trouble-shooting discipline certainly didn't bring me to any logical conclusion.

Ahh well, you live and learn (sometimes).

I decided this was above my pay-grade so slapped the board in a box and sent it to my buddy who is way better at this stuff than me
 

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While the board was off being fixed I turned my attention to that horribly burned monitor.

My buddy works at a Hazmat company that has an e-waste recycling drop-off area. So he keeps an eye out for any 19" TVs that come through and puts them to the side for me. Here's one he dropped off at my place the other day...

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Removing the old tube, you can see how bad the burn was...

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Found this under the monitor chassis which gave me a giggle

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I de-cased and removed the TV tube. Checking the model number I saw it was going to be a good donor as it has the correct neck socket (CR23) and heater voltages.

Looking at the tube though you can see there are no purity and alignment rings, so I decided just to go the whole hog and do the full yoke swap too.

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The whole yoke assembly was glued in place by EVEN MORE FUCKING RESIN!!! (Seriously what's with all the resin people???) so I carefully had to break it all away from the neck of the tube without damaging the socket, pins or neck itself.

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I transplanted the degaussing coil, grounding thing-a-roo, yoke and rings onto the new tube and then mounted it all in the metal chassis. I also went ahead and did a full Ian Kellogg cap kit on the K4900 chassis as I had a spare kit and everything was already in pieces.

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Great game and hard to find a cocktail version. Here's mine that I'm almost done with. Has one of my test monitors in it right now but I'm working on a tube swapped k7000 for it.
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Time to bust out the good old CraftyMech TPG and do the purity and alignment best I can without electrocuting myself in the process.

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I'm not very experienced at this stuff but I was pretty happy with the outcome


A nice burn-free tube, rebuilt chassis and some new underlay art, now this cab is starting to look like it belongs to someone who cares about it.

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Main board is still dead so I threw in an arcadeshop converter and a 60 in 1 board set to boot directly into BurgerTime
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Totally unrelated...but I wish Bally / Midway would have stayed true to the cocktails and silkscreened the artwork on the glass...I always though the underlays looked cheesy...but I guess cost is everything..and they did take a beating...so I guess underlays hold up much better...just a thought I had when reading the thread...looks good..not one you see in cocktail form too often.
 
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