Decision time... new suitcase caps or new switchers?

keithsarcade

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Decision time... new suitcase caps or new switchers?

I have 2 MCR games that both work, but both need new caps in the suitcase (one worse than the other).

I could either buy new caps for both games ($70), or go to ArcadeShop and buy MCR adapters and switching power supplies ($140). I was originally leaning towards just replacing the caps and keeping things original (I am on a budget), but still wonder if the latter is the better alternative.

Anyone want to share their opinion on this?

Also, if I did get the AS adapters, could an old ATX power supply be "hacked" to work with it? If so, that would save me $50 right there. I have a few laying around although they are pretty old.
 
The only way I would not keep it original is if the power supply was full of corrosion from the battery. Don't get impatient and start hacking up the game. Just do things as you have the money.
 
No corrosion, only issue is one of them blows 3/8A fuses. I think you had acually told me look for corroded connectors and I did find one, so hopefully replacing that will do the trick there, but if it dosent then ???

Both batteries have been removed, one of them even worked but I always remove them from MCR games. I go to a cordless phone battery and mount it in a hobby box away from the power supply.
 
Just in case you didn't know, you don't hack anything if you use the ArcadeShop.com adapters... it's a simple plug and play.

I've replaced the MCR power supplies in our Root Beer Tapper, Tron, Satan's Hollow, and Solar Fox and haven't looked back. I mount the switchers using one of the same holes as the original PS so I don't consider it blasphemy. :D

-Jeff
 
I've used arcade shops switcher mod in a lot of games. You do not have to hack anything. They simply created a board that connects to the generic PS and you use the original plugs on the new board. They work great and eliminate a lot of problems. I keep all the original PS parts with the machine in case I or the next owner wants to put it back to original later. I'm not a purist about the machine being 100% original, i just want it to play that way.
 
I am going through same thing now with a Spy Hunter. My opinion: just buy the CAPS from Bob Roberts and replace them and check any minor repair that the Power Supply PCB might need. Are you sure that both caps on each PS are fried?

It is so interesting to learn how to fix something rather than plug and play an adapter.
 
Yeah I'm sure. I have a Satans Hollow with a really bad hum bar and a hum/distorted audio. Tron is running better but is starting to get a hum bar. Both games run better on a switcher but I sold the one I had. Like I said, I was thinking about going the cost effective route and changing caps as I'm pretty sure that will solve most of these issues if not all. Only other power issue I have is with the 90412 in Tron, blowing 3/8A fuses as mentioned earlier. It runs fine on a 1A fuse, and I'm going to replace a corroded connector in hopes it will run a 3/8A again. Or I can just spend the extra, get the switchers and call it done.
 
your not factoring in the cost and time of rebuilding the linear power supply or the possibility of the linear killing your pcb..
 
If you are not a purist, go switchers. They run cooler and are much more efficient (consume less power).

If you are a semi-purist, use the switchers but just make sure to do minimal modding and that it's reversible.

If you are a purist, do it right and change all electrolytic caps and any other recommended parts. Google is your friend.

I'm a semi-purist - I would use the switchers for reliability and less heat but would also make sure that anything I did was reversible and would save the original parts. I am for improved reliability and less heat in my gameroom.

Bill
 
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