Dead WG K7193 Chassis

Ok, R103 was open. The chassis now has power, but it is in HV shut down. My B+ is at 160V. I checked the C36 caps and they don't appear to be bad, but I am going to replace it anyways. I also checked the shut down pot and it is fine. The two caps next to it are brand new and were replaced after the problems started. What other parts could be causing HV shut down?
 
make sure that the voltage regulator isnt shorted internally. Your either missing a load (flyback, horizontal output) or you've got a bad VR.
 
Have you tried to disable the shut down by lifting one side of D10? (I think thats the diode to lift. Double check on google). Do you get the static noise and whatnot when it fist powers up?
 
Have you tried to disable the shut down by lifting one side of D10? (I think thats the diode to lift. Double check on google). Do you get the static noise and whatnot when it fist powers up?

I have not tried this, but I will. If I do get static noise what would it mean? Ok, I see what it is testing.
 
if you get static that means that the flyback is powering the tube but something else is causing the shut down. I suppose it could in fact still be a bad flyback but its unlikely.

DONT leave the monitor powered up for very long with that shut down disabled.

Check the B+ if it stays up and let us know what it is.
 
Ok, I didn't get any static. The voltage was at 159.

if you get static that means that the flyback is powering the tube but something else is causing the shut down. I suppose it could in fact still be a bad flyback but its unlikely.

DONT leave the monitor powered up for very long with that shut down disabled.

Check the B+ if it stays up and let us know what it is.
 
I'd pull the VR and make sure none of its legs are internally shorted. Did you lift the diode?

Theres a trick on the U5000's that allows you to run the b+ into a 120VAC light bulb to act as a load. If you could isolate the B+ output and drive a light bulb with it that would tell you if your issue is within the power supply. If it still drives at 159VDC powering JUST the bulb then the power supply section is suspect. If it drives the bulb at 120VAC then the deflection section of the board is suspect.
 
Start going over all of your traces in that area behind the flyback. You most likely have one that isn't making properly...
 
Okay. Start with the basics:

1) Look for any little cracks around the flyback. Do continuity checks between each leg of the flybacks and the farthest point on the same trace.

2) Check Q11 again (HOT). Black lead on the center leg and red lead on each of the other legs should give you a reading between .400-.700.

3) Check Q10, R89, R101 and any other big part on the chassis. Actually wiggle them while watching the solder underneath, as they may be a little loose and not look like it...
 
1. No cracks were found and had continuity between each leg and the furthest points.

2. Each of the other legs read .52

3. All parts tested good and no loose solder.

Okay. Start with the basics:

1) Look for any little cracks around the flyback. Do continuity checks between each leg of the flybacks and the farthest point on the same trace.

2) Check Q11 again (HOT). Black lead on the center leg and red lead on each of the other legs should give you a reading between .400-.700.

3) Check Q10, R89, R101 and any other big part on the chassis. Actually wiggle them while watching the solder underneath, as they may be a little loose and not look like it...
 
Pull out your wallet. Sounds like it's time for someone else to look at it...
 
That's not something I want to hear this close to Christmas. Money's tight, so that won't be happening for a month or so. I have a working 25k7191 chassis that I checked values against and they are all very close. I'm so confused as to what the problem is. Well, thank you for everyone's help. Maybe I'll get lucky and stumble upon an answer.

Pull out your wallet. Sounds like it's time for someone else to look at it...
 
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