dead tron

cadillacman

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hey just started putting my tron back togther...

i got done cleaning up the power supply board and replacing all the stuff you get with a bob roberts repair kit. i also replaced the pcb interconnect cables.

Im booting up to a screen thats just vertical lines and i get a slight hum in the speakers.


i want to test the power supply output voltage but i i cant find any info as to test points etc...

HALLLLLLPPPP
 

sometimes the voltage isnt high enough. ive found that replacing the original power wire can help, sometimes. depends on lots of things.

http://www.crazykong.com/pins/Tron.pin.txt

when working on games back on marthas vineyard, ive found that PCB's have more oxidation than the ones here in kansas city. oxidation adds to resistance and at some point the voltage drop is too much. sometimes i can get away with replacing a power wire, sometimes i have to turn up the +5 V.

did you replace all the electrolytic capacitors on the power supply? replace the ones on the PCB too.
 
welll half of my prob was bobs mcr cables... on some the bottom row was the connected one, then on the other end the top row was, had to check em all with ym voltmeter...


after that i had a nice attract mode, but upside down and no coinup, no test, no service..

i checked my 5v at the pcb and all i have is 4.6... wont adjust higher... d"oh!

now i still have the upside down screen but colors are goofy and its just frozen there...


YAY.. " i totally love tron"

mike
 
welll half of my prob was bobs mcr cables... on some the bottom row was the connected one, then on the other end the top row was, had to check em all with ym voltmeter...


I had the same problem with my Spy Hunter. I used some old SCSI cables, and spent alot of time chasing bugs when I used the wrong row, bottom or top pins.
 
well found soem more scsi cables between the center board and the outer sound board that were wrong... i was getting a sound board interface error on startup.

(as in top row connected on one side, bottom row connected ont he other...) has anybody told bob about this yet??? im glad i got it figured out at least....


now i have 4.9 to 5v at the 5v pins on the boards, screen is oriented correctly, GAME PLAYS FINE with all carachters graphics and sounds!!!!


WHOOHOO i still have a nasty hum in the speakers i need to chase... (bad audio connector at pcb) and i have new filter caps so ill throw those in and see if it helps...


I still cant adjust the 5v, it it regulated and unadjustable on these???

oh well as long as it works i dont think im going to worry about it too much....
 
still cant get this sound right...

it works, the only "clear" channel in selftest is channel 6, channel 5 is so-so, the rest work with static in the background. I have already recapped and rebuilt the ps, replaced the big blues, and capped the amp board.

As soon as i unplug the audio connector from the pcb the buzzing and humming stops

i guess i need to replace that iffy connector and then recheck... im afraid i might have some pcb issues as well...
 
iffy connector

could be you could just get away with replacing the pins that the audio uses.

my guess is that you replace the capacitors in the audio circuit, the hum will go away.

i had a PACMAN that had audio hum. when i wiggled the connector the hum went away.
 
nah ill have to replace the connector. somebody else already soldered it back togther lol so yeah its pretty ugly.

ill have to do that and cap the boards and hope for thebest. After all of this id hate to have to send it out for repairs!!!
 
Mike,
Start with the 4 caps on the outer edges of the SSIO board only. More than likely though, if channel 6 is clear, but the other 5 have issues, its probably in one of the ics on the SSIO board. I ended up replacing the 6 74ls191's on mine (and socketed them), to clear up a few dead channels I had. Of couse there is more to the circuit than those. Glad to hear the rest works fine - troubleshooting the SSIO board is easier than the others - at least for me.
 
fixed the hum AND static sounds!

Ont he same iffy audio connector i really got to looking at it. Theres a red andblack wire pair ina shielded sleeve. The shielded sleeve has a bare wire in it and it also hooks up to this connector. On mine that wire was cut/missing. I made a temporary jumper wire between whatwas left of the pin in the connector and hooked it up to the bare shield wire...


static gone, hum gone..


THis may be worth a check to those of you with trons and other mcr games with audio hum.


im still going to replace this connector anyways but i figured that info was worth posting!

Oh well.. capping didnt help the issue but im glad i did it anyways... shes good and fresh now...


now all left to do it make it pretty!!!!
 
Awesome!!
Nothing better than a fresh playing and sounding game! At least its playable and you can enjoy it! Thanks for the tip on the shielding.
 
cables

As a point, there is nothing wrong with the cables, you just have to make sure you put them in right. They are not replicas of the original, but rather a workaround for the original single row interconnects. They are also actually wider than the originals by 2 pins if memory serves me, so check for errors on that as well, i.e. make sure all or your rows are evenly connected.
 
evenly was fine and easy to ensure i had right... (there were 2 i had to grind to so the connector would fit past the pcb stack pegs)

but im tellin ya some are connected properly sone was top on one end bottom ont he other..

im going to have to pull one, make a video with my ohmmeter to tell ya what im talking about lol...

oh well it works cables were cheap, water under the bridge at this point. Im just glad i was able to resurrect this pig.

Nobodys told me yet if the 5v on these was adjustable or if it was regulated.
 
fixed the hum AND static sounds!

Ont he same iffy audio connector i really got to looking at it. Theres a red andblack wire pair ina shielded sleeve. The shielded sleeve has a bare wire in it and it also hooks up to this connector. On mine that wire was cut/missing. I made a temporary jumper wire between whatwas left of the pin in the connector and hooked it up to the bare shield wire...


static gone, hum gone..


THis may be worth a check to those of you with trons and other mcr games with audio hum.


im still going to replace this connector anyways but i figured that info was worth posting!

Oh well.. capping didnt help the issue but im glad i did it anyways... shes good and fresh now...


now all left to do it make it pretty!!!!

thanks for the post fix!

so would you say this rules out those mcr "McClintock" power pcbs hummin issue? i have read so much about that and i fixed my hum on a Journey with new connectors and pins.
 
yeah im thinking this shield ground might be the issue alot of the time(along with krappy big blues??) and mabye its not the aftermarket ps adapter thats the real culprit.

I know a guy with a spy hunter that has had a hum forever, i hope he sees this post

(ay yo seawolf- check your audio cables shield ground!)
 
Inter coneect cables

evenly was fine and easy to ensure i had right... (there were 2 i had to grind to so the connector would fit past the pcb stack pegs)

but im tellin ya some are connected properly sone was top on one end bottom ont he other..

im going to have to pull one, make a video with my ohmmeter to tell ya what im talking about lol...

oh well it works cables were cheap, water under the bridge at this point. Im just glad i was able to resurrect this pig.

Nobodys told me yet if the 5v on these was adjustable or if it was regulated.

I had this problem with the first set of these i got from Bob. I did mention it to him. I have bought 3 more sets since then and they all have the same problem. Now, when I get some, I just ohm them out then mark them for install with a sharpie so I dont have to check again if i have to take the board stack apart in the future. Gotta love MCR. Ugh.
 
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