DDR/ITG2 Toshiba D29CR55

Travic

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http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w7/modessitt/ToshibaPB-6643.jpg

The Current Monitor I have is the one in the picture above. I recently obtained a Dance Dance Revolution 8th mix machine around december and I bought an upgrade kit to upgrade it to In The Groove 2. Upon changing out the boards the game ran fine for about 1-2 hours then my monitor just went black. There was no pop, and there was no smoke the monitor just went out. I plugged the machine into a vga pc monitor and I saw it boot up. So I know the board didnt blow out. I brought it to a local arcade repair shop and they wanted to charge me 200$ to work on it and couldnt garentee it to work.

I thought about purchasing http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-parts-and-accessories/product/wells-gardner-27-d9400-monitor/ and replacing my monitor. But the problem is the japanese connectors in my Dance Machine might not and probably will not be compatible.
 
this monitors used a lot in japan simulator cab. they're relatively easy to repair. wow, for 200$ to repair it... i can earn some good money :D
and about the connector, there's no surprise. imho monitor connector are universal.
 
Should I just buy the newer monitor? Or should I bring it in for repair. They told me it would take 2 weeks to repair. Ive looked high and low for this exact monitor to buy and replace it with what I have now, but as I linked previously the only cheap/decent one I could find was that.

I am just worried that the power connected coming from the main board that goes to the monitor, well how do I convert that to work with my new monitor. The one I linked above says it comes with a CGA universal adapter. I tried looking up pictures of it but that was just as useless. I am now waiting till morning to call the company and ask them

*unless someone can help walk me through figuring out what happened to the monitor, I tried running a voltage meter on some points and I noticed voltage was running but I did it with the Board and Neck not connected to the monitor and without power going to it. When it comes to figuring out schematics and circuit boards, im kinda useless*

*unless someone knows a repair guy in northern new jersey ^_^*
 
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Here's a thread on when I rebuilt one of these (with a cap kit listing) in case you or someone wants to attempt a rebuild:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=68602

Unfortunately, the tube broke before I could do final testing, so I'm not sure whether I fixed it (vertical deflection failure).

Just in case you don't know, it is a medium resolution monitor. I ended up replacing it with a 27" K7500 monitor that I had. This was in a Japanese BoxingMania.

You COULD buy that other monitor - or just order it directly from Wells-Gardner - but know that it is a flat-screen tube that may not look right in the cab. I've used one of these in a cab and it looked good, but the flat screen didn't fit against the bezel properly (was a cab-molded bezel so I couldn't use a flat bezel), so there was about an inch or so of space on the left and right between the bezel and the tube....
 
Here's a thread on when I rebuilt one of these (with a cap kit listing) in case you or someone wants to attempt a rebuild:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=68602

Unfortunately, the tube broke before I could do final testing, so I'm not sure whether I fixed it (vertical deflection failure).

Just in case you don't know, it is a medium resolution monitor. I ended up replacing it with a 27" K7500 monitor that I had. This was in a Japanese BoxingMania.

You COULD buy that other monitor - or just order it directly from Wells-Gardner - but know that it is a flat-screen tube that may not look right in the cab. I've used one of these in a cab and it looked good, but the flat screen didn't fit against the bezel properly (was a cab-molded bezel so I couldn't use a flat bezel), so there was about an inch or so of space on the left and right between the bezel and the tube....


Thank you for the reply! If i purchase the monitor from xgaming I have the option to buy the beazel. I assume I will need it. The upgraded version of the dance cabinets that are in certain arcades now run off a flat screen monitor as is. It also doesnt look half bad. The problem with the monitor I have now is it sits slightly on an angel but I assume with a little work on the brackets I can fit it to be more upright.

I am also worried about the connectors. Will I have to do any modifications to the American connections to get them to work with the Japanese ones already coming off the board?

If the monitor will connect fine ! I would be set. If I have to redo some of the power wires, well is that going to be a problem? There is currently I wanna say 6-8 wires that go into 3 connectors that plug into the monitor. Maybe more. I probably could grab a picture and post it up in the morning.

The japanese connectors are 8pin 4pin and another 4pin I believe im not 100% sure. Since you have the same monitor as I do I assume you already know the wiring scheme.

As far as your thread goes on the parts on the actual board itself, I had originally read that first before posting, that is also why I pmed you before posting. I figured posting with the little bit of info I had would be a start. But right now im pretty up in the air.

I really don't mind buying a new monitor, I just don't want to have to do any rewiring of the power cables or anything of the sort to connect it to my current board.


*edit*
Thought of something else, the monitor that I have now that doesnt work has the 3 connections that come off of it. Will a new monitor be able to accomidate all 3? Do you remember if I need all three? This connector issues has me really wondering.
*edit*
Ok so just another quick thought before I go crash. The 3 wires that plug into my board. Only one side connects to the actual board. Its like you have your board with the said power wire coming off, that connect to a wire then splits off to three. Ugh I probably should just get a picture of it tommorow. So theoretically I would just have to reconfigure the japanese end of the wire with say a molux connecter to accomidate the amercian? But the monitor I want to get gets power from a standard outlet? So confused, going to bed
 
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Well, I would take a picture of the three connectors and post them here. I think I had to adapt the connectors so that they would work properly, but it was a year or two ago. If I see them again I can tell you whether they will need to be adapted or not.

I would purchase the monitor from WG (they also have the bezel if you need it). I know for a fact that if it arrives damaged, they will ship you a replacement (and pay the return shipping on the bad one). I don't know if the other place will do so...
 
Well, I would take a picture of the three connectors and post them here. I think I had to adapt the connectors so that they would work properly, but it was a year or two ago. If I see them again I can tell you whether they will need to be adapted or not.

I would purchase the monitor from WG (they also have the bezel if you need it). I know for a fact that if it arrives damaged, they will ship you a replacement (and pay the return shipping on the bad one). I don't know if the other place will do so...

Good god your quick, I will go take a picture now actually since I got you! Brb
 
IMG_0992.jpg


You can see the three end connectors going to the board in this picture. If you follow the wires you can see where they connect on the board

IMG_0993.jpg


This is enlarged shot of where on the board those 3 wires connect. Now this main hub of a wire connects directly to the board in 3 locations. One of the red wire one for the black and a multicolored one.

IMG_0995.jpg


These three wires here are on the receieving on, on the actually machine itself.
 
Okay, I remember those funky connectors now. Yeah, I ended up cutting those off, wiring in the normal connectors that go to the WG monitor, and then connected it up that way.

Yeah, it's a pain in the butt, but it worked...
 
iirc,

the one group with red, green, blue are, of course RGB connections (r,g,b,sync and ground).
the other two, one is for AC power, the other is for degauss switch.
 
Thanks for the reply's guys. I am probably going to wait until monday or tuesday before I order the new monitor. My buddy wants to come and look at the board and see if he can figure out why it died before I buy a whole new setup. I am just so upset I bought a 1300$ upgrade to my machine then the monitor blew haha.
 
funny how I asked the same question about the same monitor and nobody but mod gave a damn, and a couple people tried translating the numbers I read off polyester caps. everyone acted like it was a Polo.

for all intents and purposes, I wound up shelving one of these, because it eats HOTs and the most information I could acquire was from that Jomac guy in Australia who seriously told me to send it in to him for repair. I asked him what could possibly cause my problem, he told me it's when the polyester caps go bad. when I asked for values, that's when I got the runaround, cause the markings are worn off mine.

cadillacman had a 27" U5000 up for sale, I swapped monitor frames (our Dance Maniax has weird mounting holes, and a weird mounting bracket to begin with) and I replaced the Toshitba with that.

the brown and blue AC wires are like black and white respectively. I butchered the RGB wiring and spliced it to an extra monitor connector I had, intertwining the copper wiring and soldering them, then wrapped in electric tape.
 
the brown and blue AC wires are like black and white respectively. I butchered the RGB wiring and spliced it to an extra monitor connector I had, intertwining the copper wiring and soldering them, then wrapped in electric tape.


Here is where I get confused, Are the RGB wires the ones that control video? If that is the case what does the brown and yellow wire do? I assume Red and Black are power and ground. That leaves the white wire. So I suppose my question is, if I were to obtain the new monitor posted earlier in this thread I would have to wire which of the wires to obtain video. Cause If I am correct in saying that the newer monitors come with external power that is plugged directly into the wall, so it is safe to say I dont need the red and black connections anymore?


*edit*
I cant access the websites in which the monitor i am looking to purchase, but what I am wondering is do the newer monitors like those come with Isolation Transformers already installed? Or do you normally have to install those yourself. I know the board I put in , "In The Groove 2" requires one
 
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Of the five wires on the video connector, you will have - Red, Green, Blue, Ground, and Sync. The brown and yellow are the ground and sync. You'll have to check to see which is which. If you follow them to where they connect to the monitor, i believe the chassis is labeled as to which is which.

As for the new monitor, it has isolation built into the chassis, so it does not require an external isolation transformer, although using one won't hurt it if you already have one...
 
The only Isolation Transformer I have is the one on the Toshiba Board, but I am not about to rip that off the current board. When I get home today though, I am going to check out the chassis and see if I can figure out where and what the wires do. I noticed with the wells monitor they give you a run down of what all the wires do but I am on the hunt for photos so I can have a good view of what im working with. With the way things are looking I am leaning towards buying the monitor Monday night so it ships out Tuesday Morning. Hopefully I can get it by the weekend and have all day Sunday to play with it. I feel like this monitor is going to be the death of me.

*edit*

I will have to connect the ground and sync to the new monitor correct? Would you happen to have a picture of what the wells connection looks like. I am trying to visualize it but its not going well.
 
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I will have to connect the ground and sync to the new monitor correct? Would you happen to have a picture of what the wells connection looks like. I am trying to visualize it but its not going well.

It is not hard to make a video connector. You could probably even make one that mates to that connector if you could find the proper molex, but it's easier to just cut it off and make a new one.

This is an example of what you'd probably find on the new monitor somewhere. You will sometimes see two separate connectors as seen in this pic, or they will all be on one long connector...

sync8.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics! Appreciated.

One thing my buddy pointed out to me yesterday was he thinks the actual tube on the monitor is shot. We hooked up the whole monitor and the actual tube itself wasnt firing off. We did not see any activity coming off of it period. So we took it apart removed some of the clamps and we think the actual tube may be burnt. I took a few pictures.

IMG_0998.jpg

IMG_0997.jpg

IMG_0996.jpg



If in fact the tube is shot, better just to buy a new monitor then try to replace it :-/
 
1) The tube won't "fire off" if the chassis is dead.

2) That isn't a very good indication of whether the "tube is shot". You would need a rejuvenator to be sure.

3) Good luck getting your convergence back to perfect after removing the rings without marking the tube ahead of time.

4) If the tube is indeed verified as bad with a rejuvenator, then you can either buy the new monitor, or find a 27" TV that has a compatible tube and use it with your Toshiba yoke and chassis. But you'd still need to fix the chassis. I recently went on a service call for a K7000 that has a bad tube (rebuilt the chassis first, tested it, still barely had a picture, and hooked up rejuvenator to verify it was bad). It still powered up (static) even though it wouldn't give me a pic...
 
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