Daytona's WG 25K5191

[rikitheshadow]

Ok the lamp trick worked, meaning the light turned on, so its not the power section.

So.............i did a meter read of IC 701 at pin 10, it only read like mili volts and given that was what it was reading before i touched it with probe......so the horizontal section has failed.....

 

[cbuschief]

follow backwards on the schematic and you'll see Q708 and a couple resistors.....look for the defective part to be one of these.

 

[rikitheshadow]

follow backwards on the schematic and you'll see Q708 and a couple resistors.....look for the defective part to be one of these.

Well I located Q708, didn't know how to exactly test it so I ran a diode check and probed each leg in different ways. The only way i got a reading from it was when i had the negative probe attached to the outside left leg and the positive probe on the middle leg, that being if you have the flat side facing you that is. Got .74v on the reading.

Wouldn't know what resistors are coupled with this, but I'll probe around.

...May save this for Channelmanic's Repair party so we can test around on a dual res chassis.

 

[rikitheshadow]

I am a sad panda today. I was so excited to get the new chassis (used) i bought from Nixs in today to replace the non-functioning U5000 I have. It's the exact same deflection board and neck board, the model number is a little different....a 25K5108, but all the markings on the boards match.

First, the neck board was damaged probably during the shipping. The 3 components with the heat syncs were pushed in so hard the traces popped off on the solder side. They are still holding (not broken) but are going to need some repairs!

Second, well even when I did swap my good neck board with the bad one..............I still get the same exact response from this chassis as I did the original. No neck glow or anything......just that clicking noise. And this board looks to have had a cap kit done during its lifetime.

I'm out $60 and still have no working monitor............
I can't say its the tube because it seems to be intact and no missing pins, plus the original chassis was still glued to it so it had never been removed from the neck.
I really don't know if the yoke would cause such a problem, at least I would get a neck glow. What should I do?


P.S. Since the bad neck board's traces were just dangling and not broken I tried wiring it back up and seeing if it was my neck board causing the problem.......still just clicks.

 

[rikitheshadow]

bump

Still no clues to what the cause is besides what is wrong with my one U5000, the horizontal section seems to be dead.

Could it possibly be the tube's gun that caused the problem? Has anyone experienced an issue like this?

 

[rikitheshadow]

progress updates

New updates!
Ordered 2x C3686 HOTs from Bob Roberts, a cap kit, and a flyback for my 2x U5000 chassis.

At Channelmanic's repair party last month we determined that the HOT was the cause of the problem on both of these things. Except the original one was short to hell, so i ordered one flyback for the original chassis just in case, plus a cap kit since it had never been touched.

I didn't have time to do a lot of work tonight, but i went ahead and loaded the new HOT on the chassis I got from Nixs. Plugged her in and all i got was a white line across the screen, DERP, didn't plug in but one prong on the horizontal winding on the yoke.......anyways she works great..............needed some slight picture control adjustment and toned down the brightness...BAM, now shes a beaut!

My only problem is the amount of heat the sucker started putting off. At first it was the brightness on the flyback.....needed to be turned down, but those heat sync'd components on the neckboard still get like a 140 degrees....is that normal?

 

[R3LL1K]

My only problem is the amount of heat the sucker started putting off. At first it was the brightness on the flyback.....needed to be turned down, but those heat sync'd components on the neckboard still get like a 140 degrees....is that normal?

Yes, they get very hot and many times will develop cold solder joints as a result.

 

[modessitt]

My only problem is the amount of heat the sucker started putting off. At first it was the brightness on the flyback.....needed to be turned down, but those heat sync'd components on the neckboard still get like a 140 degrees....is that normal?

Yeah. I just fixed 6 of these (3 K7400's and 3 U5000's) and they get pretty warm there after running a while...

 

[rikitheshadow]

more progress updates

Tonight I tackled the original U5000 chassis this sucker came with.

Replaced the HOT and flyback, that last pin by the knobs was the hardest to desolder but it only took like 5 minutes total to get it off. And about 7 minutes getting the new one on.

Heh, wired the vertical yoke upside down first......quick fix though

Actually took a lot more adjusting to get this one right. Brightness and Contrast was picky, but otherwise I think I perfected it as best I can before I go and overhaul it with a cap kit. The green needed a little adjusting as well, but i think this new flyback suits this chassis and tube a lot better....a lot less color impurities than that other one.

Still runs just as hot as the last one, they should of put ventilation in this metal casing over the back....

 

[rikitheshadow]

Can't seem to get this one to fill the screen as the other chassis did....

 

[modessitt]

Check out my repair log thread for a possible fix for that...

 

[R3LL1K]

You got those two chassis going fairly quick, nice job!

 

[channelmanic]

All he needed was a little nudge in the right direction

Glad to see you got them both resurrected!

 

[rikitheshadow]

All he needed was a little nudge in the right direction

Glad to see you got them both resurrected!

Ya Channelmanic deserves the credit for determining the bigger issue lol

 

[rikitheshadow]

Check out my repair log thread for a possible fix for that...

Found it.

Ok, I know my chassis both have the vertical sweep upgrades, but as far as I know I do not know if there has been any other service kits applied. Because I don't know what they look like.......

Anyways, adjusting width on the remote board hardly effects it, minimal movement to the width of the picture and it mostly extends vertically or compresses inwards. The other chassis does just fine making those adjustments, but this one is severely tricky. I'm not going to boot it up anymore until I can ensure some components won't fry my new parts lol.

If anyone can get me some pictures of the Horizontal and Power Section upgrade kits after they have been applied I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[Teknotoyz]

Found it.

Ok, I know my chassis both have the vertical sweep upgrades, but as far as I know I do not know if there has been any other service kits applied. Because I don't know what they look like.......

Anyways, adjusting width on the remote board hardly effects it, minimal movement to the width of the picture and it mostly extends vertically or compresses inwards. The other chassis does just fine making those adjustments, but this one is severely tricky. I'm not going to boot it up anymore until I can ensure some components won't fry my new parts lol.

If anyone can get me some pictures of the Horizontal and Power Section upgrade kits after they have been applied I'd greatly appreciate it.

I've got 2 of these I need to overhaul.... where is the repair thread??
Also, I keep hearing of 3 "upgrade" kits... where can these be bought?

Thanks guys, this is a new monitor to me, helps to read through others issues...
My monitors come on, but some picture quality issues....

 

[Teknotoyz]

Another question, if it's a 25K5191, are these U5000 chassis?

 

[rikitheshadow]

Another question, if it's a 25K5191, are these U5000 chassis?

Yes, from what I've gathered so far working on wells gardner is that you ignore the last 2-3 digits.

For example a 25K5191

Dissect it like this "25" is the monitor size "K" stands for kilo volts "5191" is a 5000 model

I don't know why specifically the U is used in U5000, but that is generally the model name. "191" is just another variation of the model U5000.

The "25K" is kinda of a literal title for the name because monitors usually have a 1000volts times the size of viewing area. So we have 25inch tube that uses 25 kilo volts between the Anode and Cathode.

 

[Teknotoyz]

Found it.

Ok, I know my chassis both have the vertical sweep upgrades, but as far as I know I do not know if there has been any other service kits applied. Because I don't know what they look like.......

Did you ever figure out what the other 2 kits looked like?
The vertical sweep kit is the little board with resistor that is bolted to the heat sink or frame I assume?