Daytona's WG 25K5191

rikitheshadow

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Donor 2011
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Hey folks, gonna try to fix up this monitor here. Got a guy from Alvin, TX here looking to get rid of his Daytona cabinet, but the monitor died. I'm looking to help get rid of it if you know what I mean ^_- I'm waiting on space, and possibly I can trade him something.

Everything is fine as is, but the monitor. I've double checked the AC output from the connector in the cabinet and I get 119VAC so its ok. Guy told me that it started fading the last few times, and then a few electrical pops in the last few runs and it died completely. From his description it sounded like he was mentioning that static noise you hear from the startup from most of the older ones, but I wouldn't believe that to be the cause. I check over components and it doesn't look like any arcing did occur, there is only one burnt looking component (small burn near the lead) a large green resistor near the center of the board and horizontal width coil. Nothing else as far as I'm concerned, but I don't where to start really. I checked the chassis fuse and its ok, so the board still receives power when the cabinet is turned on, but you get no humm or any response from the chassis.......

Before I get some pictures up, I'm gonna see if anyone can direct me from there on just the description.

On a side note, there was an extra wire attached to the anode cap. The wire led straight to a weird looking box that was cable tied to the frame (Bottom looked like the same white filler you see on the bottom of a flyback). The only other wire leaving that box was grounded to the metal frame...........is this device designed to discharge the high voltage charges?
 
Deflection Board is a P738 with a neckboard P719
 
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is there any glowing at the neck of the picture tube? Gonna need more info to help you diagnose the problem with the chassis. This is a common chassis and if I remember it is a medium resolution chassis. Can you check the B+ voltage?
 
Ok, no neck glow, I mean it didn't even give me like an electrical start up humm or nothing really (game was still in startup so there was nothing to buzzin but fans). I know it's getting voltage from the cabinet, but It really doesn't seem to be responding or anything, but the chassis fuse is not blown.

Unfortunately, I only spent about 45 minutes giving it a once over there. I asked if I could bring the chassis home to give it a further look and test more components that I could get my hands to when its out of the cabinet. BUT I did not bring the tube or yoke home, and the guy is like an hour drive away.

On that note, I do not know the B+, let alone the test points for this chassis or any chassis for that matter. Never been shown how to.........

I've got some pictures I'm going to be uploading in the next hour to show ya'll what we are looking at.
 
The U5000 is a dual-res monitor, operating at med-res for the Daytona.

If you saw a little "burn" on a resistor in the middle of the board, you should check it's value against what it should be. There is a resistor in that area that is part of the start-up circuit, and will not allow the monitor to come up if it's open...
 
The U5000 is a dual-res monitor, operating at med-res for the Daytona.

If you saw a little "burn" on a resistor in the middle of the board, you should check it's value against what it should be. There is a resistor in that area that is part of the start-up circuit, and will not allow the monitor to come up if it's open...

Would you possibly know the resistor (Ex. like R104 or R100) that you are speaking of? I can't find a data sheet with all the listed components, but WG has a diagnoses list telling you what component numbers to check.

The resistor that is burned a little is R100, it's reading is 4.7ohms. I need to compare it's color rings to the chart, but the colors are a little faded. And it being green doesn't help to contrast those colors.

Update: Judging from the markings the bands are colored as such.
1s Band is Brown, 2nd Band is Brown, 3rd Band is Black
Which calculates to 11ohms, and the 4th band being black leaves little to no tolerance range? so is this resistor bad?
 
The resistor to check for startup is R765. R760 sometimes.

Pull R100 and check it. It should be 4.7-ohm 3-watt. If it's 11, then replace it, but I don't know if it will help much. What's the B+?
 
The resistor to check for startup is R765. R760 sometimes.

Pull R100 and check it. It should be 4.7-ohm 3-watt. If it's 11, then replace it, but I don't know if it will help much. What's the B+?

Ok here are what the resistors are reading at....

R765 is reading 33.06 K ohms
R760 is reading .597 k ohms


R100 is fine (reading 4.7 on the dot), I was trying to calculate the value for it using the color bands compared to a typical resistor chart. I was suspecting it would be 11 ohms if the chart was right, but i guess these one's are special cases.


Right now still can't measure B+ because I have no matching tube and yoke on me, and the guy lives an hour away right now it's just a hassle to travel back and forth. But if I do get around to traveling back over there, could you tell me the test point to use to read B+ on a U5000? Maybe I can convince him to let me pull more out and get the monitor over here for more extensive testing.....
 
Said I was going to get a few pictures, was just very lazy lol.
So here we go...........


IMG_2721.jpg



IMG_2722.jpg



IMG_2727.jpg



IMG_2726.jpg
 
Here is pictures of that box attached to the anode cap I was talking about.....

IMG_2723.jpg



IMG_2724.jpg




Bummed a camera while at work to take these photos. Something I could use manual focus on!
 
That "box" is a CRT Brightener that was added to tubes to make the image brighter. I have seen one instance where that was the problem, and I removed it...
 
actually.....that 'box' is factory and is not your problem as long as your flyback is ok, which I'd guess it is. You can look at the chassis and see that there are some test points that are labeled, such as 15v, B+ and such. If you have a light fixture handy you can measure the power supply without needing the tube. You can start like most and install a cap kit to omit alot of common faults with Wells Gardner chassis.
 
actually.....that 'box' is factory and is not your problem as long as your flyback is ok, which I'd guess it is.

As I said, I've seen ONE chassis where the problem was the brightener. It had failed and caused the picture to be so dark you couldn't see anything - looking "dead"....
 
I'll see if I can order a cap kit from Bob Roberts and see how fast that can get here. LoL, have the weekend off and thats the perfect time to head back up there and give it another run with the tube and game.

I'm interested though, how would you hook up the light fixture to the power supply to run tests? before I google this........
 
you can lift the leg of R100 (the one connected with C107) and jumper this to one side of the lamps AC cord and then jumper the other side of the lamp to chassis ground, make sure the lamp is turned on. Then, you can hook up the power to the chassis and read your B+ voltage and it should read around 118 VDC. If your reading is good....so is your power supply and your issue is probably in the horizontal circuit.
 
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Well I haven't tested for the B+ yet, but since I have the unit in my possession now I can actually get around to testing this thing.

So I plugged it up, like I said before there is no neck glow, but there is a feint clicking noise coming from the chassis. Any suggestions? I figure this may be a common symptom encountered with these.....

Right now I'm already having an issue with no force feedback, but given I can't pull up the test screen and check any of the settings.
 
TP 106 reads 87 volts
TP 103 reads -87 volts

TP 203, actually marked as B+ reads 0.5v

Don't know any other test points in there unless I can pull it out again and look....
 
Bump

I really don't know what else should be tested. I imagine it might just be easier to send it out to Chad, but hes got like a 40 day wait on his que, plus I need to watch my pocketbook now.

Anyone else have any clues or suggestions on what might have failed on this board that causes to make a clicking noise and no neck glow?
 
bump

Really not trying to pester, but I'm still open for suggestions?

I may be purchasing a 25K5108 (U5000 chassis) the deflection board and neck board match, existing yoke should be compatible.....
 
the ticking you hear is because your overvoltage circuit is shutting off the B+.....which is rising above the normal voltage. The problem can be either in the power supply section or the horizontal section....if you do the light bulb test from above that will put you in the right direction....if the bulb lights....the power supply is working and your issue is in the horizontal section. If its in the horizontal section, you need to determin if your 12vdc is working, this is needed for the horizontal section to work. You can find the 12 vdc on the IC 701 pin 10.
 
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