Daytona USA Twins

RedPenny

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Hello,

Just an update on what I've found since I moved them in and a few questions. As expected, the condition of them is appalling, but I did expect that.

After a day or two of cleaning and trouble shooting, I have both cabs racing like champs.

I have removed all of the sound pcb's from both sides: Sound board, pre-amp and amps. The rca jacks on the pre-amps, where they're soldered in are cracked or loose and they were crashing one of them and creating other anomalies. I re-soldered one pre-amp board and it now works. The actual game sound boards on both are pretty well shot and do not work. While I was removing them, I found this little pcb relay board next to the PS that was burned up. It's a relay, Zero Cross 2A 75 to 125 v ac AQB2A1-ZT3/6VDC, the little board can be saved, but I need to find a new one of those to install.

In the pcb cage there's the stack of game boards, but there is one that sits alone in the back of the cage. What is it and what do those three rows of 8 dip switches control? I can't find a thing about them on the internet, but there they are, just asking to be switched around. Currently, they're in the off position in both cabs as I found them.

I fiddled with the drive boards and turned the vr1 pot all the way up and the 1-3 dip switches to the 'on' position. Guess what? My arms are sore. At least the steering clutches, motors and belts are in decent shape.

I can't dump a fortune into them, but I have the two twins racing around like crazy so I'm happy and next week I should be receiving the used sound boards that I bought.

Also, I would really like two new plastic dash/control panels and gear shifter covers in the future if anyone knows where to get them. Mine have been burned up by the cigarette brigade.

I'll post some pictures in the future, but right now they're in a real ugly state. One of them nearly broke in half while we were lifting her.
 
Sound Boards

I have re-installed a working pre-amp and amp in one of the twins and pulled all the roms, memory and cleaned the pins and the sound board sockets. The board now fully lights without the upper option card, but still no sound.

Previously, I had only the red led on the main soundboard and one on the upper option board lit. Without the upper option board, I get the mainboard red led plus the two red and green ones have lit up. If I plug the option board in it goes back to just the red leds on each board.

I do get an audio pop in the speakers when I turn the power on and off so something is now working, but still no game audio.

All of my sound board dip switches are in the off position, is this correct? And to make matters worse, the two identical boards had #rd rom chips in different sockets. I got that sorted out and the roms are now in their proper places. What a mess.

I really need dip switch settings and jumper settings, or maybe a close-up picture of a working board.
 
few things to note about these:

in addition to your sound amp wiring, you have to make sure that it's actually connected to the filter board on the PCB cage as well. I think it runs from the PCB cage, to the sound board (the one that has the "OPTION BOARD") and then that runs to the sound amp itself.

if any wiring is unplugged before that, it will cause you to not have sound.

also be forewarned that with these Daytona games, if any speakers are blown, it WILL wipe out the IC on the amplifier.

I'd take pics of ours, but a) I don't think I have a camera here and b) I'm afraid to see what shit is underneath the seat floorboard. lol :)
 
Oh, forgive me, what would you like pics of?

I'm pretty sure it's a well known fact on here:

If your restoring something, take pics before, during, and after. Just a thought I had while reading your post :)
 
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Was I too harsh??

Jesus Christ....sensitive, aren't we...

I don't really care, it's just that around this place everybody assumes that new people know like the entire protocol, or that they're tech gurus out of the box. anytime a new user joins, if they ask a question, I explain entirely what they need to do when they say that they haven't got the technical know-how to do it. I understand it, because I got shoehorned into doing it for my family 2 years ago... I had to learn how to 'be the man' in their arcade in a very rapid fashion.

everybody assumes around here, that's the problem. not everyone knows how to meter and not everyone knows how to solder. and sometimes they expect us to know everything based on a short paragraph. it goes both ways too.

I don't always readily have a camera at my disposal either, but I know how to describe my problems, cause it's my job.

that's all. give the noobs a chance to grasp what they're doing.

and it wasn't really your comment, it was the "every damn thing!" one. like really, what do you need pics of on a Daytona? it's a pretty elaborate setup, especially for someone new.
 
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2907

Pre-purchase: Both cabs have no sound, but the game boards will post and run without crashing. Both monitors look ok. Cab#1 acceleration pedal works while racing; does not work in selection screens. No brakes, only 4th gear in manual. Cab#2 neither brake nor acceleration pedals work; extra set of non-working pedals. Bad weather, Tornado coming, must hurry.


What has been fixed/adjusted or worked on and what is still broken and needs some work.


Fixed/Working:
Cab#1 upper cabinet nearly broke in half upon lifting on moving day. Screwed on large piece of wood for support/quick fix; a hillbilly bumper. http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2910

PS voltage check: Cab #1 = 5.6V Cab# 2 = 4.6V Reset both to 5.2V

Cab#2 12V ground from PS was disconnected and hanging around; reconnected.

Both cabs: Need working lower cabinet fans.

Cab#2 player view while racing would suddenly look off into the mountains; would look anywhere but forward resulting in a bizarre race for player#2 and since there was no sound, as a test, I plugged an mp3 player into its pre-amp and I had sound popping in and out. Discovered the posts on the board needed to be re-soldered. Removed sound board, pre-amp, amp and powered up. Player view is now stable; view problem has not re-occurred.

Both cabs: Fixed and adjusted the pedal pots, steering pots and their wiring harnesses. Swapped out a few pots and re-soldered all connections since wires were frayed and hanging by a few threads; reconnected missing ground wire to acceleration pedal assembly. Replaced plastic stripped gears; cleaned and lightly greased the gears.

Both cabs: Hideous startup/calibration grinding, screeching, vibrating sounds coming from both steering units. Adjusted the belt tension; no longer hideous sounding. Need to disassemble both steering units and clean, check for wear, and possibly uncover new surprises. Probably needs grease in some areas. Need higher tension springs to hold steering at center-point.

Cab#1: At some point in the past the gear shift wiring harness directly below the shifting unit caught fire. Snipped out the burned up wires, re-soldered, removed duct-tape and wood-chunk from 1st gear switch. Ordered a dozen steel switch activators; temporarily no first gear. Cleaned and lightly oiled.

Cab#2 force-feedback is weak and intermittent at times regardless of the drive board settings; cutting in and out while racing. Swapping drive boards did not solve the problem. While cleaning PCB cage and un-installing its fan bracket; discovered a bracket screw had squished a wire from the harness. http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2935 Taped/tagged the spot for repair; force-feedback is stable and stronger.

Both cabs: Re-positioned PCB cage fan brackets http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2923 according to Sega bulletin http://www.sauservice.com/manuals/Daytona Folder/bull1.html ; considering additional fans. Removed and gave the finger to the big wrong fan and whoever squished the wire. Need PCB cage fan. http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2941


Broken/ Needs Work:
No sound in either cab; waiting on two used sound boards to arrive. Re-soldered/set posts on cab#2 pre-amp. Wire harness from main board in PCB cage to filter board to sound board appears fine on both cabs. Wire harness from sound board to pre-amp is fine as tested by mp3 player on both sets of pre-amps and amps; fully working.

Cab#1 blown relay. http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2945 Borrowed working relay from cab#2; player one Race Leader light on marquee now flashes properly.

Both cabs: Pull main wire harness and inspect. Pull PS's, clean, inspect and possibly rebuild.

Nanao monitor chasis' likely need cap kits? Cab#1 has very small but noticeable horizontal waves while cab#2 needs horizontal position slightly adjusted; adjustment pots are dirty and overly sensitive. Cab#1 has slight burn-in; not noticeable while racing.

Both cabs: According to Sega bulletins http://www.sauservice.com/manuals/Daytona Folder/BULL2.html http://www.sauservice.com/manuals/Daytona Folder/bull3.html ; need to install raincoat on top of PCB cage and below pedal assembly to prevent any liquid/spillage from seeping in; considering sealing all floor panels with rubber door-seal gasket or something similar.


Cleaning the pcb cage, pcb's and wire harness. Dirt, wear and tear are everywhere
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2915
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2913
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2912
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2914
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2916
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2918

Time to clean. I used a soft brush with an air compressor on the pcb's; warm water to clean out the cages and also submerged and scrubbed the wire harness
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2930
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2931
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2939
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2920
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2922
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2923
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2929
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2932
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2938
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2940
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2941
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2942

Crispy connection from spillage of some sort
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2921
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2946
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2947

Let's see if it still works
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2949
It still works
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2950
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2951
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2953
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=355&pictureid=2954

It was a dirty job, but somebody had to do it.
 
you surely make it hard for klov'ers to see those pics..

btw, nice restore effort so far. so, do you still need the jumper sets photos?
 
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I don't really care, it's just that around this place everybody assumes that new people know like the entire protocol, or that they're tech gurus out of the box. anytime a new user joins, if they ask a question, I explain entirely what they need to do when they say that they haven't got the technical know-how to do it. I understand it, because I got shoehorned into doing it for my family 2 years ago... I had to learn how to 'be the man' in their arcade in a very rapid fashion.

everybody assumes around here, that's the problem. not everyone knows how to meter and not everyone knows how to solder. and sometimes they expect us to know everything based on a short paragraph. it goes both ways too.

I don't always readily have a camera at my disposal either, but I know how to describe my problems, cause it's my job.

that's all. give the noobs a chance to grasp what they're doing.

and it wasn't really your comment, it was the "every damn thing!" one. like really, what do you need pics of on a Daytona? it's a pretty elaborate setup, especially for someone new.

I understand and I didn't mean any offense. I was kidding with my 2nd comment.
 
and BTW, Thanks to the OP for the detailed post. I'm sure it will help someone in the future.
 
Oh hell, dug this thread up from the grave......

and it wasn't really your comment, it was the "every damn thing!" one. like really, what do you need pics of on a Daytona?

"Pics or it didn't happen!" is my motto :D
I personally like to follow a story with pictures, irregardless if the game is common or otherwise. I would not have pictured what a "Hillbilly bumper" looked like on a game as he described. yea maybe not important, but fun in a thread anyway.



Thanks Redpenny!, that site you linked to the manuals and service info is sweet!!!
Loved the info you included.
 
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