I think I have the little board! Daughterdad on here may have the bigger one.
(Edit - in fact I'm 99% certain I do, but its at storage right now.)
(Edit - in fact I'm 99% certain I do, but its at storage right now.)
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
Daytona USA Twin - Question or two.
- Thread starter Dokert
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Dokert
Well-known member
Thanks guys, we are working on getting the parts as we speak.
Do the ROMs have to be the same on the master and the slave?
mrdion
Member
yes, they must be same.
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Dokert
Well-known member
Makes sense, thanks for verifying.
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Yeah, just need what they consider the BD unit in each cabinet. Master and Slave. (Mainboards with Matching ROMS)
The Power is consolitdated mostly in the Master Unit as there is only one power cord for the two.
The TX and RX fiber optic cables are a simple to use, but are also limited in distance between the BD units (Might be only effected by having more than 1 set of cabs like 4 or 8). As stated before, Red to Black and Black to Red makes it real simple.
I might suggest using this. Official Documentation on the Daytona Twin Cabinet!
http://www.segaarcade.com/pdfs/daytonausa/daytonausa-twin-manual.pdf
In the Daytona Model Cabinets, monitor adjustments are made in the back, but I noticed the Virtual On cabinets which are on the same cabinet design, they have remote adjustment boards located behind the player control planels. You can see Sega's obvious improvement to the design and utilization of new Medium Resolution monitors.
The Power is consolitdated mostly in the Master Unit as there is only one power cord for the two.
The TX and RX fiber optic cables are a simple to use, but are also limited in distance between the BD units (Might be only effected by having more than 1 set of cabs like 4 or 8). As stated before, Red to Black and Black to Red makes it real simple.
I might suggest using this. Official Documentation on the Daytona Twin Cabinet!
http://www.segaarcade.com/pdfs/daytonausa/daytonausa-twin-manual.pdf
In the Daytona Model Cabinets, monitor adjustments are made in the back, but I noticed the Virtual On cabinets which are on the same cabinet design, they have remote adjustment boards located behind the player control planels. You can see Sega's obvious improvement to the design and utilization of new Medium Resolution monitors.
OP
OP
Dokert
Well-known member
picked up the 3rd Daytona tonight, and the monitor chassis was not mounted, so I found the flyback adjustments that I could see before. No clue how a person could adjust them with the chassis mounted
OP
OP
Dokert
Well-known member
Thanks for all of the help, got two out of three up and running (linked)
knight76
New member
Sorry to bust in on this thread but I am having a similar issue.
Just bought Daytona Twin and trying to get them linked. Games stay in test screen trying to detect network for both.
I read above that you need to connect red to black, red to black but when I bend right down to look at the outputs on both cabs, only one is showing red optical output, the other side, ie the slave side, has both outputs dark.
Is this an issue? In otherwords, only one optical out/input socket is showing the glowing red from inside the socket.
Just bought Daytona Twin and trying to get them linked. Games stay in test screen trying to detect network for both.
I read above that you need to connect red to black, red to black but when I bend right down to look at the outputs on both cabs, only one is showing red optical output, the other side, ie the slave side, has both outputs dark.
Is this an issue? In otherwords, only one optical out/input socket is showing the glowing red from inside the socket.
Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
Let me start by saying that this is not a spart method of connecting these. The light you are seeing is highly concentrated and will damage your eyes.
That being said, both units should be transmitting on one line and receiving on the other. In other words one port should be lit while the other port is not. If one of your units is not lighting a port then it is either not in link mode or something is wrong with the transmitter.
That being said, both units should be transmitting on one line and receiving on the other. In other words one port should be lit while the other port is not. If one of your units is not lighting a port then it is either not in link mode or something is wrong with the transmitter.
knight76
New member
I am looking at the connector from a distance so I doubt my eyes will be damaged. It's not like I am shoving my eye directly against the port.
Both units definitely in link mode.
Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
You can look at it from a distance of 6 feet and it doesn't make a difference.
Check power to the non-working unit. If power is good and all connections are good try swapping boards to see if the problem follows.
OP
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Dokert
Well-known member
On the test screen, one unit must be set to master and the other must be set to slave. It doesn't matter which one is which.
You can test them individually by changing them from master/slave to single.
You can test them individually by changing them from master/slave to single.
mrdion
Member
detecting network is NOT being in test screen. go into test screen by using test button and you'll see many menus, now that's test screen. like i said, put both in test mode, and normally, you'll see one of the output should glow red (for both master and slave).
for one of two socket not showing red, it is because it is in searching mode, usually in boot mode and game mode.
knight76
New member
Thanks guys.
I did go in to the test screens and they were setup for master/slave. They were working as networked before they left the previous owners as well so settings should be fine but I checked them. Maybe a connector has come loose on a board.
When I did check if the port was glowing red on both it was in search mode I am sure. I will set both to master and connect the each units ports to itself and check if they leave detecting network mode.
I have also put them in to single mode and they both work fine as far as the actual game working.
I did go in to the test screens and they were setup for master/slave. They were working as networked before they left the previous owners as well so settings should be fine but I checked them. Maybe a connector has come loose on a board.
When I did check if the port was glowing red on both it was in search mode I am sure. I will set both to master and connect the each units ports to itself and check if they leave detecting network mode.
I have also put them in to single mode and they both work fine as far as the actual game working.
OP
OP
Dokert
Well-known member
Open the back of the coin box and make sure they didn't come unplugged inside the back of the coin box
Open them up and chase the fiberoptic cables back to the network board to see if they came unplugged.
Open them up and chase the fiberoptic cables back to the network board to see if they came unplugged.
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cadillacman
Well-known member
wait dok you have 3 daytons now?? bastage!!
ON those monitors, if theyre original they are probhably nanaos..
the fly adjustment knobs are just like other monitors, but instead of the knobs facing the back, they face to the side. That big metal plate is there in the way, so nanao was nice enough to drill out two holes there on the side to let you adjust.
ON those monitors, if theyre original they are probhably nanaos..
the fly adjustment knobs are just like other monitors, but instead of the knobs facing the back, they face to the side. That big metal plate is there in the way, so nanao was nice enough to drill out two holes there on the side to let you adjust.
OP
OP
Dokert
Well-known member
Yes, 3 Daytonas. 2 are working with MAXX ROMs, and we are waiting on a boardset for the 3rd one. All 3 have Nanaos and work beautifully. One needs the fly turned down a hair. Found the fly controls and they are facing the front of the cab. No way to get at them without un-mounting the chassis and turning it around.
knight76
New member
Fixed the link system issue.
I linked each unit to itself and put them both in master.
One side went in to demo mode and other other stayed at detecting network.
I opened up the seat and traced the cables and one of them had fallen out. Plugged it back in and tested, went to demo. Routed the cables between the two machines again and both went to attract mode.
1 issue down lol.
Thanks for the advice guys.
I linked each unit to itself and put them both in master.
One side went in to demo mode and other other stayed at detecting network.
I opened up the seat and traced the cables and one of them had fallen out. Plugged it back in and tested, went to demo. Routed the cables between the two machines again and both went to attract mode.
1 issue down lol.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Mikey Jones
New member
2 out of 3 aint bad
These games are a beast... The best I could get was 3 out of six to work for various reasons... Just swapped some seats around this morning and disconnected the other two machines... I'd have thrown them out the window if they weren't so heavy. I might have some spare parts soon including boardsets and networking cables, coin box etc. Not my call in the end but I want to get rid of these ones that are causing troubles. Just wait till the camera views get screwed up and you are driving in the sky... Literally tons of fun
These games are a beast... The best I could get was 3 out of six to work for various reasons... Just swapped some seats around this morning and disconnected the other two machines... I'd have thrown them out the window if they weren't so heavy. I might have some spare parts soon including boardsets and networking cables, coin box etc. Not my call in the end but I want to get rid of these ones that are causing troubles. Just wait till the camera views get screwed up and you are driving in the sky... Literally tons of fun
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These games are a beast... The best I could get was 3 out of six to work for various reasons... Just swapped some seats around this morning and disconnected the other two machines... I'd have thrown them out the window if they weren't so heavy. I might have some spare parts soon including boardsets and networking cables, coin box etc. Not my call in the end but I want to get rid of these ones that are causing troubles. Just wait till the camera views get screwed up and you are driving in the sky... Literally tons of fun
Lol, camera views in the sky. Sounds like a big issue with the boards....ughhh...
But hey, if anyone may be selling a Boardset with harness and the force feedback board, I might be interested! I always wanted a twin cab setup for Daytona, but all i've gotten so far was Virtual On, but I got this empty Sega upright cabinet that may fit a Model 2........guy told me it used to be for a Model 2 game........looked like a single virtual on upright but I find that hard to believe.
