Daytona USA sound board problems

mecha

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try this one on for size, I know how much you all love helping me with my problems. :)

one of my Daytona twins, the music skips repeatedly, and plays the wrong music, and is overall jacked up. there's no cold solder, I'm not entirely sure if wiggling the connectors is making a difference because this symptom sounds just as friggin random and can seem like it's changing when it's probably not.

I've narrowed it down to the sound board by swapping boards and the problem carried to the other machine, therefore I think it's safe to say it's not an issue with the cabling. I already tried reseating the roms and cleaning the sockets with a toothbrush, to no avail. the sockets were heavily gunked up with like wood and whatever fragments of shit get in them over the course of time.

what's the likelihood this is caused by a bad cap or something equally absurd?

gfd, why did it have to be this game that's next to impossible to work on?
 
Yes, it sucks to work on the sound board on this game. It's way up underneath there, isn't it?

Unless you just enjoy troubleshooting and repairing, I would recommend buying a replacement board. THese sound boards come up frequently on ebay, and they usually go cheap. That board was used in many Model 2 games as well as some Model 1 games, so they are plentiful. Just buy one, swap the ROMs and you're good.
 
well after playing with it some more, this time I got good music with scrambled SFX and speech.

I tried wiggling wires, no change. tried pressing on roms, no change. however, the black CN-1 connector, if you bend that around, it makes a difference. I went from having NO SFX to having them, but then the music got scrambled up again like before.

I pulled the black plastic part of the connector off to look at the pins. they're solid (well, metaphorically speaking... they're actually pretty fragile looking)

I know that CN-1 provides power, but what other inputs does that thing take? there's something like 8 wires coming off it.

I tried wiggling caps to see if there were any broken legs, I found nothing. checked every part, nothing out of the ordinary.

to my understanding, the board worked fine prior to me doing my typical [dangerous] preventative maintenance of pressing the roms back into the sockets (I have bad luck with multiple games doing this, for some bizarre reason) ... my theory is whatever gunk was already in the sockets probably got pushed further in.

what started this whole mess was my left player would scramble up into a bunch of on-screen garbage MULTIPLE times throughout the course of the day. when I was testing the sound board, I reached in the coin door to adjust the volumes and sure enough, left player got scrambled up. upon closer examination, I found that the white ground wires (damn Sega and their weird wire colors) were actually EXPOSED. a few other coin door wires were broken too. they all worked, but I figure when you have exposed wires touching metal, and a bunch of hyperactive little engines for kids sprinting around the place and jumping into the PLASTIC drivers seat and reaching over to drop coins in... the static discharge is probably what's causing this.

why do I know this? because this not only happens to other redemption games that we have where they will lock up, but ..... it happens almost exclusively in the winter months when the air is dry.

yep... Daytona's getting left off tomorrow. :eek:
 
I gave both sound board halves an alcohol bath today.

the IC5 socket on the option board looks like some of the pins in the socket aren't filling the whole holes. lol like the spring loaded portion of the pin is just crushed.

I tried tapping around on the rom while the game was on, and that definitely made a difference in the audio playback for the voices.

some sections in the Sound Test after the Voice 1 I think are either inaudible or the samples are very distorted. I suspect this may be the IC5, because ALL other music and sounds play perfectly since I cleaned the boards.

anyone got a resource on the socket types for these, or are they pretty standard? usually Sega goes out of their way to make every god damn component proprietary, that's why I ask.

that said, at least the game's playable until I can replace the socket.

unless one of the wizards here has a suggestion for getting the pins unsmashed. :)

to clarify, I'm talking about the little option board on the top.
 
i reccomend you remove the original and clean the board, then replace with a machinew pin strip socket so you can make sure your repair is soldered on well..

SIP_Socket.jpg
 
for my own records (since I'm not dragging the board home with me)

SEGA
MPR-16493
8316200B
689 AK
9409 Z02
 
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