Daytona USA 2 - Steering slamming to left

AAirhart

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Donor 2011-2012
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Corrected the drive board error I was getting, now the steering wheel erratically slams to the left constantly. Any ideas on this one? The game is a bit unplayable in this state.
 
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Usually inappropriate force feedback response is caused by the game not reading the wheel position correctly. Imagine yourself slamming the wheel all the way to the right each time it jerks -- does the motor's response line up with what you think the game would do in that situation?

Go into controls test and watch the steering wheel value. Turn the wheel slowly; if it doesn't smoothly increase or decrease and instead jumps around, you probably have a bad steering pot. Very common issue on newer older driving games.
 
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seems to increase ok. with the steering wheel and shaft removed it almost sounds like the motor is jamming and trying to center, but I can't see anything jamming it.
 
seems to increase ok. with the steering wheel and shaft removed it almost sounds like the motor is jamming and trying to center, but I can't see anything jamming it.

I forgot to mention, did you move the wheel along its full travel, looking for jumping the whole way? Sometimes there's just a specific spot on the pot that's burnt, so the symptom only shows up when you move the wheel to a specific position.

You could try shaking the wiring a bit to see if the value changes as you move the wires (which would indicate a broken wire).

If the wheel reading is faithful to the wheel's actual position no matter what, there's probably an issue with the motor driver board itself... in which case, I'm not gonna be much help. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
 
day

i have for sale at 50 buks the wheel position and feedback pcb from a virtua racing if that might help i think its the same on daytona, but not sure of daytona 2
 
I think Daytona 2's an entirely different monster. we sold ours last year, had to break the machine down to the nitty gritty for the people to load it in their SUVs. upon me reassembling it at their house, it did the same exact thing. I wound up replacing the power supply on it, on my personal dime, fucking assholes, and they have to manually center the steering wheel whenever they turn it on.

what they mean though is when you put it in test, cycle the wheel entirely from left to right, if the pot doesn't flow smoothly along the full travel then it's bad, and that will cause your problems with it not centering right or erratically trying to rip your wrists off. lol
 
...cycle the wheel entirely from left to right, if the pot doesn't flow smoothly along the full travel then it's bad, and that will cause your problems with it not centering right or erratically trying to rip your wrists off. lol

To add even more on this, I've pasted some text from the Super GT section of my web site below.

"I went into the diags and tested out the steering. The game reads, more or less, from 0x20 to 0xE0 with 0x80 being "center". I quickly learned that the readings were wacky. While I would get around a 0x80 with the wheel centered, turning the wheel to the left caused unexpected results. It would start counting down and then, all of a sudden, go up to 0xA0 and count up! At that point I understood why the control seemed so bizarre ... when turning to the left, the game would think I was turning to the right for a bit. If I kept turning left, the readings would eventually come back into line. However, at full left turn, it started reading as a far right turn.

The good news was that the repair seemed pretty straightforward. A potentiometer (aka "volume") needed to be replaced. This is a 5KOhm potentiometer that costs about $20. Not too expensive from my pin background, but pretty painful when similar parts are often just $2. The steering wheel panel must be removed from the game in order to perform this repair. That's easy, just 4 security screws and 2 bolts."

... Altan
 
Found a pot with the same rating but different post, so we modified the post to fit (turned them both all of the way to the left and matched the flat side there), post height and measurements match exactly, the little hex screws need a little adjustment tomorrow to get the gear back on then firing it up and seeing how it does. If it doesn't work then the $20 pot will be in my future.
 
Found a pot with the same rating but different post, so we modified the post to fit (turned them both all of the way to the left and matched the flat side there), post height and measurements match exactly, the little hex screws need a little adjustment tomorrow to get the gear back on then firing it up and seeing how it does. If it doesn't work then the $20 pot will be in my future.

Make sure it's a linear pot, not a "volume" pot. If it's an audio taper, the wheel will act weird in a different way; specifically, it'll increase/decrease faster in one direction vs. the other and won't center correctly.
 
only issue i'm having now is getting the steering wheel on properly. it was in a walmart bag when I picked it up. What position should the wheel be in when turned far right/left?
 
It's pretty complicated:

  • There should be a stop on the wheel shaft, that stops it when you turn it all the way right/left. You can find center by looking at this stop.
  • Cross-check this against controls test. If mechanical center doesn't give a reading within 4-5 points of exactly between the two limits, either your pot wasn't connected to the shaft correctly (you have to center the pot, then connect it to the shaft while it's centered!), or you used the wrong type of pot (per my post above). In the latter case, you NEED to get a linear pot and put it in before you continue.
  • Now that you're sure you've got the shaft centered, it's pretty simple: being careful not to move the shaft, put the wheel on such that it "points" straight up. The position of the actual wheel is purely cosmetic, but I know how much people value cosmetics here :)
 
Ripped it all back apart tonight.
Aligned the pot and gear per the instructions (reattached the steering wheel in the correct position). Fired it up, reset the center reading in the test menu and it worked great...

Then I realized I forgot to put the metal shaft back on....
And SNAP!

Looks like I need a new bolt, but otherwise it's good.

In other news, a Radio Shack 5k linear pot ($3) seems to work just as well as the $24 Sega version. You just have to grind the one side down (carefully!! you don't want to generate enough heat to damage it) and shorten it with a hacksaw.

Now I just need to fix the start button (spring seems to be broken, Start is stuck down) and find a Sega flexi to go under the header.
 

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