day TWO work on my OMEGA RACE

[vintagegamer]

Doesn't look too bad. Lots of missing chips of course though.

Thankfully I have populated a good 90 percent since that pic was taken. There are only a few sockets that someone added which I need to figure out what chips are supposed to go into them.

Thank you for upping my confidence on this board! Now whenever you're ready for me to send it to you for repair, just let me know LOL

 

[EVB]

I would not take it above 500 degrees and you will probably have to flow new solder/rosin to each pin to be able to suck the old stuff out if it is giving you that much trouble.

After 700 degrees and 2 hrs of fighting, the 2 dac's are still not off of board 'b'. I'm starting to think you have to be a 9th level cleric to pull off the magic that's required for this..

 

[vintagegamer]

Well uh, I got to mess with the game tonight and uh, I've learned quite a bit...

Let me say first and foremost that I brought the game home last December, tinkered with it some in the beginning of the year, and then put it on the back burner. Since that time, thanks to this site, I've learned a TON more than I knew when I was last messing with it.

So tonight, I put a fresh fuse in the PS, disconnect the main PCB, and start all over again. I have the wiring diagrams in front of me, and for the life of me I just can't put together what's on the paper to what I have in the machine. It finally hits me that I can now test voltages across caps (something I didn't know how to do at the beginning of the year), so I start checking the caps on the PS... The big 4700MF (MF, appropriately named...) is reading a big fat ZERO.. I'm like "WHAT???!!" The other 2 caps read 12V and 5V. So, I'm thinking OK cool, I made some progress. I swap in the other PS that I have, and check the voltages on the same three caps... The 2 small ones read ZERO, and the big one reads.... .3V!! I'm like ah OK, maybe it's been the PS's all along! So I pull them both out of the game, and while looking at them I figure that since I'd noticed earlier in the day that there was a diagram of the PS in the owner's manual, I'll match them up to be 100 percent that I have the right PS... after all, it looks the same as the one in the pic, so it should be the same, right? (this is where things start going downhill)

Upon matching the pic of the PS up to what I have, not only do I notice right away that the bottlecap transistors are different (the ones in the manual show 2N 3772's, the ones on my boards are 2N 5301s.....), I also notice that on the pic in the manual, there are 3 jumpers shown up near the top of the PS when it's mounted in place- my 2 PS's only had 1 jumper... Immediately a 4-letter word beginning with the letter F came out of my face, and no it wasn't "fuse".... So, I'll either have to find the right PS already built correctly for this game, or I'll have to sacrifice one of these boards and rebuild it specifically for the game from a kit (I'll probably do the latter).

So, I made progress tonight- but wait........... there's MORE! I keep looking through the wiring diagrams, and they keep showing the last characters of the board # for the UR to be "E929". I have 2 main boards here, and both of them read........... "H929". I haven't determined yet which type of game they are from (cockpit, cocktail, or mini), but I know that they most likely aren't for a UR......... Also, the corresponding daughterboard for the H929 board should also read H929 at the end.. Mine, is a G929!!!

So, even though the results from tonight were a real kick in the toolbag, at least alot of the mystery surrounding why this game hasn't been working for me is starting to come together. Can the other OR owners here check their boards for me when time allows, and let me know what board the H929 series goes with? I'll keep checking on my own in the meantime too.

So, tonight resulted in one big MEH. Thank God my other games are running at least!

 

[hatrick]

It doesn't matter if the motherboard came from an upright, cocktail, mini, or cockpit, they should all be the same. I think the only difference in the daughter card is that the cockpit version has a couple extra volume control pots on it.

 

[vintagegamer]

It doesn't matter if the motherboard came from an upright, cocktail, mini, or cockpit, they should all be the same. I think the only difference in the daughter card is that the cockpit version has a couple extra volume control pots on it.

That is good news to hear, thank you.

I also went back and checked the pics I had from when I got the game from the seller. It seems the PS board that started me down the dark path actually came already in the game. Can I sue the seller for punitive damages???? (I am totally kidding, as the seller is a KLOVer LOL)

 

[vintagegamer]

As for your fuse blowing problem...get a magnifying glass, and look over the board REALLY REALLY REALLY well. Look at all the pins pin the chips, look for scratches where a trace got smeared over to another trace, etc.

Chances are the fuse blowing is a short somewhere, I wouldn't bother replacing any empty chip sockets until the fuse stops blowing. You have to be careful because depending on the short you don't want all your 5v chips getting 12v! I've seen that!

I checked the board over last night, and the only thing I'm finding that's really got me scratching my head is there's a small jumper wire attached from the back of one IC's pin to another location near it. I didn't get to write down what location it was at so I'll have to post that tonight. I wish I could pull these 2 jumper wires off of the board just to start from zero, but something tells me that's a bad idea!

 

[vintagegamer]

Disregard on the missing jumper wires on the PS, the schematic says for Omega Race, they should not be present.. Back to the drawing board.