Data East- Simpsons

gars943

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On the power board of the Simpsons I have, a connector is fried and it controls the different quadrants of lights on the playfield. When the game is turned on it plays fine until it heats up and then some of the lights will go out, and randomly come back on. When the lights are out and this connector is touched they come back on. So I know I have to replace it, but what is this connector called and would Marco's or Pinballlife have them?
Thanks,
Gary
 

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It is a 0.156 Molex connector. You'll need the connector, crimp contacts, and you'll also need to replace the header pins on the power supply board because they are almost certainly roasted and have cold solder joints.

Connectors:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/category-86.asp

Crimps:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-80.asp

Header pins:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp

You'll also need a crimping tool. I use the red one on this page:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-53.asp?pg=2
The yellow ones are evidently the same but are a couple dollars cheaper.

Marco and Pinball Live also has this stuff.
 
should get a key pin while you are doing it, just to avoid misaligning the plug in the future


Product ID: 15-04-0297
Keying Plug, 0.156" Small

12 cents from GPE


Ever done this before? Replacing the connector itself isn't too difficult. Snip one wire at a time, crimp a new pin on, and insert it into your new connector. Crimping takes a little practice, but the good thing is you can't screw anything up. If you make a bad crimp, just rip it off and start over with another one. (buy extra pins - seriously, you will need them)

Replacing the header pins on the pcb is a little more complicated, as it involves de-soldering the pins from the board. Research this if you aren't experienced doing it.

You may find that replacing the plug will solve your immediate problem. However - if this is the case - just know that if you don't also replace the header pins on the PCB, you'll likely find yourself in this same situation a few years down the road when the connector burns up again. The heat from the resistance on the header pins is what is causing this problem, and until you fix that you are just applying a band aid.
 
If you're getting parts from GPE, I prefer this crimper for .156 pins:

Product ID: 1028-CT
Crimper, General Purpose

Economical "B" Type Crimper For all contacts except 0.062"
"B" type insulation crimps in following cavities:
A = 18-14AWG, B = 24-20AWG
"B" type conductor crimps in following cavities:
C = 16-14AWG, D = 20-18AWG, E = 24-22AWG
Manufacturer: Sargent Tools
Handle color typically blue but may vary.
Made in USA
Price: $27.00

It's not much more money and is a superior tool IMO.

Also read up on basic crimping for pinball here:
Molex Connectors Explained, as used in Pinball.
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

RussMyers
 
Thanks folks.. but

I still have a couple of questions. On the existing pins the wires appear to be pushed into place. Is this the old school way, or will I be doing the same? Stangbat or anyone else recommend the exact part number for the crimps, they would use? I will replace everything including the header pins. But with all the options for the crimps I just need to know which one would be best suited.
And of course thanks, everyone,
Gary
 
I'd use these:

Product ID: 08-52-0113
Crimp Contact, 0.156"


The wires "pushed into place" is a different style of connector called an IDC connector (insulation displacement connector). It is actually a "newer" style of connector - used by the mfg because it is quick and easy. You don't have to strip a wire, you don't have to crimp a pin - you just push the wire into the slot and a couple little blades in the connector slice the insulation and contact the wire.

The problem? These suck, compared to the molex style connector you are going to use to replace it with. Wires fall out, contact becomes sporadic, etc. So since you are going to replace the connector anyway, you may as well do it with a better, molex style connector.

Your new connector will look different than the one you have now, but it will be obvious what to do when you see it and it will fit perfectly on your header pins. Crimp the pin on the wire, then push the entire pin into the hole in the back of the connector until the pin snaps into place. x9 then you are done.
 
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What examiner said. Use the Molex crimp connectors. They'll look different, but they are much better. The other connectors were used for ease of assembly and are not the best.
 
The differences between the inferior IDC-style connectors and the superior crimped-on molex-style connectors are very clearly explained in the document I linked to previously.

Molex Connectors Explained, as used in Pinball.
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

I suggest you read through it.

RussMyers

I still have a couple of questions. On the existing pins the wires appear to be pushed into place. Is this the old school way, or will I be doing the same? Stangbat or anyone else recommend the exact part number for the crimps, they would use? I will replace everything including the header pins. But with all the options for the crimps I just need to know which one would be best suited.
And of course thanks, everyone,
Gary
 
The before and after...

After getting the parts and reading the articles pointed out (Thanks and sorry russmyer, I now understand the difference between the old IDC and Molex). I could not afford the crimpers at this time, paying some doctor bills and it wasn't in the budget, so I soldered all the connectors, a pain but doable, anyway turned out good, everything works without all that shorting/flickering lights, almost like a strobe sometimes.
Anyway, again thanks,
Gary
 

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I guess I'll have to do the same to my DESW. I was removing the power supply and noticed this...



Doesn't look as bad as yours did but I might as well fix it while I have the power supply out.
 
Very, very common problem. Those connectors were not "rated" to handle extreme heat and high current for long periods of time (read: sitting powered up 12 hours a day in an arcade). Rebuilding them is absolutely needed.

Chris
 
I've owned four DE machines and I've had to replace that connector on three. The only reason I didn't have to replace it on the fourth machine is because the previous owner had done it. :)
 
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