Dangers in cleaning monitors

chas010

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Is it possible to over clean the back of the tube where the anode cup seats? I remember reading about aquaduaug(sp?) coating and its importance. I cleand where the rubber cup seats and wasnt sure if grime was coming off or special coating.
 
Depends on what you're cleaning it with, I suppose. I haven't had any problems with alcohol, electronics cleaner, windex, simple green on a rag, for any of it... wouldn't use anything with industrial solvents, like MEK, etc.
 
There will be a large area of clean glass around the anode hole. After about three inches away the aquadag will start. Some types are able to be cleaned, and some come off easlily with just water. Try it in a small location with a light colored cloth and then look to see if any/how much came off. It is usually alright to just wipe the entire tube down with a damp cloth to get the dust off of it. (discharge first!)
 
There will be a large area of clean glass around the anode hole. After about three inches away the aquadag will start. Some types are able to be cleaned, and some come off easlily with just water. Try it in a small location with a light colored cloth and then look to see if any/how much came off. It is usually alright to just wipe the entire tube down with a damp cloth to get the dust off of it. (discharge first!)


I've heard of people taking the monitors outside and hoseing them down. Any issues with that?
 
I've heard of people taking the monitors outside and hoseing them down. Any issues with that?

I would still test if the dag is water soluble before that, but I have only heard about certain types of monitors that the dag comes off of, never actually seen any. If you can rub the back of the tube with a wet cloth and it doesn't take hardly any of it off then hosing it down will probably work well.
 
Hosing is fine if you have discharged the monitor and DO NOT rub on the black stuff on the back of the tube. If you do the aquadag will come off. I do it on just about every monitor/chassis I repair. make sure you dry the chassis and tube thoroughly before applying power to it again. Not a problem here in Texas. I just leave the chassis in the sun for about an hour and rotate it to get the water to drip off. The black stuff looks like it was painted on in a set pattern. A grounding strap made of metal usually runs across it at some point. Here is a photo of a K7000 repair I did. I have been meaning to get a user guide to doing K7000s up but haven't had the time.

Some day.

http://picasaweb.google.com/pat.danis/K7000HoseJobAndRebuild?feat=directlink
 
Question on the hose down:

Shouldn't you cover the anode hole so water can't get in? Or does it really not matter.
The hole is sealed on the inside. After hosedown make sure you let it dry and maybe stick a q-tip in there to get it all out.

To me hosing down the tube seems like a lot of work. I usually just use some shop towells and mild detergent and wipe it off. And it still looks like brand new. Chassis on the other hand I have sprayed down since they get so dirty and they have a lot of little areas that are hard to clean.
 
As long as the aquadag is not water soluable, the hose down is the easiest thing to do. Gets the crud out everywhere including under the yoke where it builds up. Add a little dag-safe cleaner and you end up with a very clean tube, frmae and chassis. Use a paint brush to wipe all areas under the yoke, between rings, and between components on the chassis without having it apply too much pressure. No disassembly required unless you want.
 
monitor cleaning

I usually do not do that but sometimes when the tube has so much buid up of dust and smoke built up from bars that i have seen voltage from the anode walking down the outside of the tube to ground that taking a hose to it has been done but let it air dry for days or take a hair dryer after it.
 
The last couple hundred monitors that i cleaned, i doused with cleaner and water. Cut the suction cup from an old dead flyback, lick it and stick over the anode hole. Works every time.
 
Hosing is fine if you have discharged the monitor and DO NOT rub on the black stuff on the back of the tube. If you do the aquadag will come off. I do it on just about every monitor/chassis I repair. make sure you dry the chassis and tube thoroughly before applying power to it again. Not a problem here in Texas. I just leave the chassis in the sun for about an hour and rotate it to get the water to drip off. The black stuff looks like it was painted on in a set pattern. A grounding strap made of metal usually runs across it at some point. Here is a photo of a K7000 repair I did. I have been meaning to get a user guide to doing K7000s up but haven't had the time.

Some day.

http://picasaweb.google.com/pat.danis/K7000HoseJobAndRebuild?feat=directlink

Nice picture summary of the wash down! I have the same parts cleaning brush as you .. sure works a hell of alot better than a paint brush :)
 
I use the same process as in the image, but instead of simply green I use Westley's Bleeche-White -http://westleys.com/

crud/grease/dirt doesn't stand a chance up to this stuff! Haven't had any problems yet!
 
Hosing is fine if you have discharged the monitor and DO NOT rub on the black stuff on the back of the tube. If you do the aquadag will come off. I do it on just about every monitor/chassis I repair. make sure you dry the chassis and tube thoroughly before applying power to it again. Not a problem here in Texas. I just leave the chassis in the sun for about an hour and rotate it to get the water to drip off. The black stuff looks like it was painted on in a set pattern. A grounding strap made of metal usually runs across it at some point. Here is a photo of a K7000 repair I did. I have been meaning to get a user guide to doing K7000s up but haven't had the time.

Some day.

http://picasaweb.google.com/pat.danis/K7000HoseJobAndRebuild?feat=directlink

Good walk through of the cleaning process. I was worried about getting water into the anode hole, but I guess I don't need to be worried. I'm going to do this on my G07.
 
I take my chassis I rebuild and run them through the dish washer, blow them off with compessed air and let them dry in the sun for a day or so. Have not had any problems so far...
 
I think you guys are ballsy... If you asked anyone on the street if it's ok to hose down a TV they'd think you were a fool. I've got rust/corrosion on several points of my monitor, I think I'll stick to the elect. cleaner, compressed air, and maybe I wont have corroded pots etc... For such a pain in the ass component, I'm hesitant to introduce such a risk.
 
I think you guys are ballsy... If you asked anyone on the street if it's ok to hose down a TV they'd think you were a fool. I've got rust/corrosion on several points of my monitor, I think I'll stick to the elect. cleaner, compressed air, and maybe I wont have corroded pots etc... For such a pain in the ass component, I'm hesitant to introduce such a risk.

I was convinced to do this since Wade has a huge gameroom full of fully functional and super nice machines that almost all got this treatment. Their pcb's all got the dishwasher too!
 
Every monitor chassis I repair or cap goes through the dish washer. Tubes and frames get the simple green treatment and hosed of under pressure. I usually do all my monitors at one time twice a year in the spring and fall. Never ran the PCB's through the dishwasher... just simple green and the kitchen sink sprayer.
-Don
 
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