D9200 with no green

gobsgraham

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A friend has a D9200 in a 2003 Golden Tee with no green. The neck board had some crystalizing/flux residue burn on the transistors and the power resistors. I took it home and cleaned it up, resoldered all of the burnt parts and a few other questionable solder joints. I put it back in the machine and it looks great. From reading a few other threads about this, I turned down the color drive to minimize the chance of this happening again but I wasn't sure how low to go. Anyways, an hour later they are playing the machine and the green goes out again.

A few questions:

1. The troubleshooting says check IC201, R236 and Q207. Q207 is not populated so does this mean my neck board is the older or newer version from the Service Bulletin?

2. What levels should I turn the drive down or does this really matter?

3. Is my best option to scope the green signals/test points everywhere and see where it is no longer present?

4. Any other advice or things that I should be doing/checking?

5. Is there a way to factory reset the monitor to default values? I would want to do this and then turn the levels down from there.

6. Should I use silicon to attach the neck board again to hold it in place or is that just precautionary for when they ship machines from the factory?

The green went out after a shot which makes me suspect a loose cable, jamma harness or possible neck board. he checked around back there but couldn't find anything loose.

I am debating swapping in a spare Nanao MS8-26SU that I have and taking his D9200 so that I can just work on it at home and not have to drive back adn forth. I don't know if I want to keep the D9200 though as the threads I have read make it sound terrible. It would however make a nice monitor for a GT(EGA)/PGA Tour(SVGA but may work VGA)/Buck Hunter(CGA) combo cabinet I want to attempt.
 
Even if they aren't shorted? Once they have been overdriven, is the damage done?

Thanks Ken
 
These transistors get 'flaky' since they get real hot. I had one a couple of years ago that gave me all kinds of grief with the color transistors. They tested good out of the circuit, but I kept having red & green both going out at various times. I got tired of fucking with it and replaced all three transistors. Problem solved.
 
I have had problems with the pins in the socket in the past not making a good connection.
Try contact cleaner on the socket pins.
Wiggle you video connector at the neck board and see if green goes out.
 
check the resistors too. Chad recommended some replacements to me here: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...K5Evirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-TWM10J1K5E

if you happen to get it working again, in the OSD, turn the color gains down some. the picture might not be as pretty, but at least you'd have colors and it'll last.

also, replacement color transistors: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NTE2501virtualkey52600000virtualkey526-NTE2501

careful when soldering on these, I fried a pad on the green (the middle leg) and had to work up a jumper wire for it. still going strong after a year now.


basically, these generate a shit ton of heat. I've read stories about the yoke retaining clip melting and the yoke sliding clean off. lol they're a bitch.
 
check the resistors too. Chad recommended some replacements to me here: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...K5Evirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-TWM10J1K5E

if you happen to get it working again, in the OSD, turn the color gains down some. the picture might not be as pretty, but at least you'd have colors and it'll last.

also, replacement color transistors: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NTE2501virtualkey52600000virtualkey526-NTE2501

careful when soldering on these, I fried a pad on the green (the middle leg) and had to work up a jumper wire for it. still going strong after a year now.


basically, these generate a shit ton of heat. I've read stories about the yoke retaining clip melting and the yoke sliding clean off. lol they're a bitch.

Thanks. The resistors and transistor test out fine but I will change the Transistors anyways as per the recomendatins here. I guess for $3 more it doesn't hurt to change the resistors aswell. The $20 for shipping is what is killing me here and I can't find any transistors locally. I had already read your post from another thread and bookmarked your links. Thanks (I guess to Chad too)- without that I would have been on here asking everyone for a cross to use.
 
Thanks Everyone. I replaced the transistor and checked the yoke (it was okay) and everything has been working for 2 days now.

I noticed the power supply fan wasn't spinning in it though so I will have to replace that. Since it is a red board it looks like it is just a standard computer power supply. I have only had green boards before with the normal arcade power supplies. Can someone confirm that I can grab any decent computer power supply for this?

Thanks again.
 
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