D9200 - No Red, loud buzzing

I recently acquired a B&K 470 tester/rejuv and made a confirmed working CR-23 adapter. The tube for the D9200 had a short, but it's been removed and tests well. I'm a quick learner and have enough skills to run with advice given. That said, I did find the IC103 replacement part on Mouser.com, but I have no idea how to flash it. Is this something the monitor can do? or do I need a special tool? I searched on Google but didn't come up with the correct information to help me.

THANK YOU!
 
I recently acquired a B&K 470 tester/rejuv and made a confirmed working CR-23 adapter. The tube for the D9200 had a short, but it's been removed and tests well. I'm a quick learner and have enough skills to run with advice given. That said, I did find the IC103 replacement part on Mouser.com, but I have no idea how to flash it. Is this something the monitor can do? or do I need a special tool? I searched on Google but didn't come up with the correct information to help me.

THANK YOU!

They come blank but once its in place and power up it will get the default

values which are close, but not perfect ,from the micro.

May need RGB in user adjustment and geometry like pin, trap etc.

And arcadecup.com has them under 9200 series eprom, parts list.

They don't need programming.

If the picture looks good then all you needed is to restore the guns.

but if the picture is not perfect then order the ic, online or call him.

chassis has a socket already, just plug it the correct way.



The no red issue I was talking about was for the Makvision issue

you mention for no red!
 
Thank you!

I ordered 5 of them from ArcadeCup :)

The tube tests as good. I wish I had another D9200 board to test out. But even the OSD comes up green only. The guns work fine in the tube, so it has to be the board.

As for the Makvision. I don't have the correct adapter to use my CRT tester, yet. Funny thing.... I looked VERY VERY closely, mapping out the board using a grip to help me focus and keep track. I found a very small ball of solder on the neckboard, bridging two traces... I pulled it off and reflowed a few traces that looked good anyway. BAM, fired right up and looked awesome. CRAZY.. the monitor is absoltuely gorgeous looking. I won't find time to play it a lot, so I hope the tube lasts (I hear they are "junk".. but maybe in home, it will be fine). That thing is HEAVY.

Anyway, thank you. I'll follow up in the thread once I install the IC103 chip :)
 
UPDATE:

I ordered a programmed IC103 from ArcadeCup. Went in easily and with the writing facing the same way. Monitor started up and started buzzing loudly. The buzz seems to be coming from the far right area of the board (if you are behind the monitor. The flyback isn't loud at least.

I have no red color. Blue and Green are able to be adjusted. I am sending a signal of 640x480 to the monitor. I tried VGA and CGA connections on the input board, swapping the cord/plug in the confirmed correct slot each time. same results.

When I remove the signal and startup, I see nothing. No OSD menu. I plugged in the VGA cable but without anything at the "sending" end, and the screen flashed the "No Signal" in green and then promptly disappeared.

I'd like to fix this myself, as maybe it's something simple. I don't see me shipping the board off to ArcadeCup for $175 plus shipping costs to Chad.

ANY THOUGHTS?!
 
UPDATE:

I ordered a programmed IC103 from ArcadeCup. Went in easily and with the writing facing the same way. Monitor started up and started buzzing loudly. The buzz seems to be coming from the far right area of the board (if you are behind the monitor. The flyback isn't loud at least.

I have no red color. Blue and Green are able to be adjusted. I am sending a signal of 640x480 to the monitor. I tried VGA and CGA connections on the input board, swapping the cord/plug in the confirmed correct slot each time. same results.

When I remove the signal and startup, I see nothing. No OSD menu. I plugged in the VGA cable but without anything at the "sending" end, and the screen flashed the "No Signal" in green and then promptly disappeared.

I'd like to fix this myself, as maybe it's something simple. I don't see me shipping the board off to ArcadeCup for $175 plus shipping costs to Chad.

ANY THOUGHTS?!


The Ic is notched and lines up with the notch on the pcb.

don't go by the writing on the ic, as a rule.


Anyway you have a few problems with this chassis

Need to confirm the Q415 and Q416 are working correctly

they can fail and cause audible sound at different frequencys

that the monitor can cover. And will test shorted too.

the yoke can be an issue on these model.

As I mention in my notes if Q415 and 416 are real hot after a few minutes then they are

not right. Again anytime they are replace the drive transistor needs to be replace at

same time. So the chassis can switch correctly between signal

and not get resistance. from two or more frequency switched on.

you need to see the internal test message showing over and over, not stop!


You need to see red in the OSD to tell if the last stage on red is working.

The Video processor do fail on the neck board.

Again the guns do arc within and can damage the IC.

and can fightback after clean and balance or rejuv, They can open at any time.

the shorting of the cathode will let you know if you still have red gun working

or check again with tester.

When the red is not working the collector voltage will be high

compared to the others on a test pattern.

Chad does have the neck board but I see any NB as repairable

Got any photos of the picture during these test?

But you need the signal hooked up to get OSD feature to work.
 
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