D9200 - No Red, loud buzzing

Brizzle

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Help!!! I put a cap kit into a working D9200 27" Wells Gardner monitor in my Bags game. I noticed that a speaker wasn't working, so I pulled the speaker panel out and set it on the glass. When I replaced the speaker, I turned the game on, but the speakers screwed up the picture! Duh! Bad move, didn't think about that. I degaussed it about 5 times.. it still looked like the photos. Then it popped, monitor flashed off and restarted. Still same thing, no more popping after 30 minutes. No improvement. This thing looked great before the speaker swap!

Video: https://youtu.be/PdPuiY2pJsw
Pics aren't loading for some reason...

Any insight is welcome!
EDITED 8/6/16 New Title
 

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I don't think that's a degauss problem. The magnet would leave color blotches on the screen wile you screen looks all light blue. Looks like you have a monitor problem or board problem but sense you just installed a cap kit I would check your work for solder bridges or caps installed backwards. Never did a D9200 but I heard they have a bunch of caps.
 
Yeah. Definitely not a magnetization/degauss problem. Your image is white-washed out. Check your connections and go over everything you did, like Sam said.
 
I'll double check everything by eye.

Thing is, the machine worked GREAT! No issues. Image looked fantastic. Played it a bunch. It wasn't until I put the speakers on it for a moment that the issue happened. Just so odd...
 
I suppose it COULD be a tube issue, but it doesn't look like anything regarding magnetism that I've seen before. It's possible you could have damaged the mask and if so, the tube is toast, but that's a worst case scenario. Public opinion about the D9200s is that they are garbage. There are 6 or 7 different versions of them and you have to get the correct cap kit depending on which version you have. They were all manufactured with totally sub-par caps. They are kind of like the 25" Hantarex Polo. When they are working, they look great. When they aren't, they are hard to fix and are just generally junk. They are so difficult to work on that most monitor techs won't even look at them...in my experience anyway.
 
Yes they are a challenge sometimes to fix. In this past year I must have done about 15 9200's. They are awesome monitors when working correctly. Beautiful picture, and tri res!!

Question? Did you fire up the tube after the cap kit and before putting the speakers on the glass? And if so was it FINE?



Electronic repair services
Servicing most monitor chassis
Sanwa, Wells, Sanyo, Sharp
[email protected]
for more info!
 
remove the signal

wait for the no signal message..

these are basic feature of the digital line.

no game needed.

if it does not pass this test, you have a broken monitor

face it. and start trouble shooting it.

should be a dark back ground with a color box for each color

and text..??


you move the game while its on you'll see a change in purity.

but you got other problems.

it looks mostly blue, hardly can see video

from what I see
 
Thank you, everyone. The monitor looked AWESOME before i stupidly put the speakers on the glass.

I'm watching 3 kids right now but will unplug the signal and see (brilliant idea, and I'm not sure why I didn't think of it ha ha.).

Will report results back even if I'm screwed, tube-wise, out of respect for you all :) I have no idea how I'd get a working tube here in SE Minnesota ha ha.
 
ADDED PHOTOS!

For some reason, I couldn't enter the photos yesterday from my mobile device.

(also, I thought I had donated to the site, but I guess I didn't go above and beyond with money. I know I didn't donate the minimum.. HOWEVER, I am definitely going to start pitching money back in. You all have really helped me, and this monitor issues is wrecking my experience. This was the first arcade game for my family to play :( and I'm at a loss ha ha).

Thanks!
 
remove the signal

wait for the no signal message..

these are basic feature of the digital line.

no game needed.

if it does not pass this test, you have a broken monitor

face it. and start trouble shooting it.

should be a dark back ground with a color box for each color

and text..??


you move the game while its on you'll see a change in purity.

but you got other problems.

it looks mostly blue, hardly can see video

from what I see

Good advice
 
I pulled the signal cable and fired up the monitor. "No Signal" comes up but is green, just like the screen is when the game is going (it looks blue in the photos, but it's green here).

I have no idea what to look for when I pull the chassis. These boards are foreign to me. I just put a cap kit in, but I'll go through a list of caps for this revision and see if something is messed up. I just bought my first rejuvenator (B&K 470) but have to make my own CR 23 adapter (not even sure if that is what the digital Wells Gardner monitors use). Not that I'll know what I'm looking at when I get it connected ha ha.

Thanks, everyone. I don't know anyone ANYWHERE near here who can help with this monitor (other than an-about 3 hour trip to test the tube(s). Good times! Sending to Chad at Arcade Cup is just not something that can happen, especially with an almost 2 month turnaround.

Wish me luck!
 
I pulled the signal cable and fired up the monitor. "No Signal" comes up but is green, just like the screen is when the game is going (it looks blue in the photos, but it's green here).

I have no idea what to look for when I pull the chassis. These boards are foreign to me. I just put a cap kit in, but I'll go through a list of caps for this revision and see if something is messed up. I just bought my first rejuvenator (B&K 470) but have to make my own CR 23 adapter (not even sure if that is what the digital Wells Gardner monitors use). Not that I'll know what I'm looking at when I get it connected ha ha.

Thanks, everyone. I don't know anyone ANYWHERE near here who can help with this monitor (other than an-about 3 hour trip to test the tube(s). Good times! Sending to Chad at Arcade Cup is just not something that can happen, especially with an almost 2 month turnaround.

Wish me luck!

You might reseat the neck board, and connectors on it.

confirm you crt pins are straight and not bent.

Just need to take it slow and look at the neck board for cracks or caps

not soldered in good , or the three transistor need to be reflowed if loose

no signal message comes from the main board not the input board

without a signal hookup.

but make sure you reflow the vga and connector reseat the cables on it.

Check some things, sub your neck board if you have another 9200.

Good Luck
 
Thank you, as always!

I will double check the boards, as I pulled the monitor out last night. I always use a magnifying glass with light on it to check all solder joints, but I will do this again.

Pins are straight on the CRT... the monitor looks great and worked great until the speakers sat on the glass.. so odd...

I only have a D9400 (9410, I believe... going from memory since I'm not home). I recapped and reflowed that monitor to try to get rid of color that was bleeding to the right. It looks awesome now :) . I do not have another D9200. Other than the D9400, I have that Makvision M2929D1-62 that was missing red color, but I have an idea what to test (just haven't spent the time).

I'll see what I can figure out. I'm new to checking continuity, but it's pretty straightforward.

It's just odd that something could go wrong on the board at the EXACT moment the speakers sat on the glass...

Thanks!
 
I had this happen on a Super Sprint last week. It was a G1 short. Same thing with Street Fighter. Street Fighter cleaned right up, I had to tube swap the Super Sprint. Both appeared after being moved by the owner. I also had a similar problem today with a k7900. The neck board had a crack in one of the ground traces.

I'd test the tube with the rejuvenator to rule out the tube because it's easy and then look at the neck board carefully. Also make sure you didn't bend any pins under the socket.

It's not a magnet problem. :)

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
GB Ward,
Thank you for your comment! I tested and rejuvenated the tube. It needed a short removed on the red gun. Also, the red and green guns tested weak. Once rejuvenated, they were in the Green for emissions test.

I hooked up the chassis again. The sound you hear when the monitor changes resolution kicked in at startup... then I saw a light blue screen for a moment, then it made that sound going black, then the image appeared, too dim to know what colors were showing. I cranked the flyback with little improvement, but when I turned it down, the image easily disappeared.

I unplugged the monitor and then plugged it back in after at least one minute. There was a spark in the glass neck, which I've seen after rejuvenation. I unplugged the monitor, waited a minute, then plugged back in. The monitor started up without anything out of the ordinary, but I'm back to the green screen again, as it was before (It looks blue in the photos).

It's just odd that the monitor would work great and then not at the exact moment the speakers got near the screen, without moving the cabinet or monitor.. I have a different monitor in the machine that is working fine now, though I still need a monitor to work.

I looked very closely at the neckboard and chassis and don't see anything. I tested continuity all over the place, though I'm sure I didn't test every single trace.

Now, you mention that I should check to make sure the pins beneath the neckboard socket aren't bent. The pins on the CRT are very straight. I know what the inside of a neckboard socket look like, as I had to make my own CR-23 socket for my rejuvenator. Just curious is there is something I overlooked. I tried reflowing solder all over, too, but with no change.

If I hadn't put the cap kit in and had it working just fine for a bit, I wouldn't be so reluctant to send the chassis to Arcade Cup.. well, that and I bought a couple U2000 chassis's from him, one has an issue, and I can't seem to get him to respond.. but that's another story. I don't want to pay the price someone else who has done no work would pay... but who knows how much work he'd have to do to it...

Anyway, I'm at a loss
 
Hey, Thanks! Sounds to me like you might have the short back, if it was dark, and then it's doing it again. I'd check that real quick. A lot of the time the adjustment is screwed up after rejuvenation. Do you know how to dial in a CRT?

In a nutshell:
1. Set contrast and brightness to mid. Neck cut off controls to zero, drive controls to mid.
2. Put in a grid or something that has a part-black raster.
3. Turn up the screen control until you get retrace lines, and then turn down until they go away.
4. Make sure you can get black with the brightness control, and then turn it up until you get a visible color in the black. Leave this color alone, and adjust the other two cut off controls until you get a gray.
5. Adjust your contrast it starts to smear and distort, and then back it down until it doesn't.
6. Adjust your drive controls until your whites are white. Check your magenta, yellow, cyan, and adjust accordingly.

You've checked to make sure the neck board is properly connected (grounded esp!)?
 
Thanks! The neckboard is definitely grounded. I have never setup a CRT properly like that, though I've messed with settings on them before. The red and blue adjustments were doing nothing even while tweaking the green. but maybe the short is there, which could cancel out red and blue somehow.. I think?

I'll take another look with the tester/rejuvenator and then mess with settings. Thanks!
 
Need to just clean and balance, if they read about the same emission

then leave them alone.

Another issue with the color and adjustment's via the user menu.

Is a corrupted Eprom just need to swap it out.

and restore your caps and connections, then see what you got.
 
Thank you, as always!

I will double check the boards, as I pulled the monitor out last night. I always use a magnifying glass with light on it to check all solder joints, but I will do this again.

Pins are straight on the CRT... the monitor looks great and worked great until the speakers sat on the glass.. so odd...


I'll see what I can figure out. I'm new to checking continuity, but it's pretty straightforward.

It's just odd that something could go wrong on the board at the EXACT moment the speakers sat on the glass...

Thanks!


I only have a D9400 (9410, I believe... going from memory since I'm not home). I recapped and reflowed that monitor to try to get rid of color that was bleeding to the right. It looks awesome now :) . I do not have another D9200. Other than the D9400, I have that Makvision M2929D1-62 that was missing red color, but I have an idea what to test (just haven't spent the time).

Might be the tube.. if no tester, you can short pin 8 the gun to ground if no red

then its dead, and don't waste any more time with it, if it turns bright red

then you need to check the Ic on the heatsink on the neck board?

Check it out


Did you replace the Eprom yet for the 9200?

your magnet may have wiped it clean.
 
You most likely will need to remove IC103, put in a socket and then a newly flashed chip. That serial eprom can cause all kinds of symptoms you would never imagine. I don't know how many 92s I've repaired by changing that IC103 and doing nothing else .

Electronic repair services
Servicing most monitor chassis
Sanwa, Wells, Sanyo, Sharp
[email protected]
for more info!
 
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