Was it working before you started?
Either way you should check some test points
and have any of the caps been replace before?
My wag is the vertical circuit,but a visual inspection
of the whole chassis is important,with good lighting
I deleted my scarcasm about the flashlite.
Its all good.
Does it have HV if you can't tell,one way is turn the set
off and discharge the crt.. ground out the anode hole to the
metal strap around the tube, when you insert the short hold it there
for a few seconds,a quick short will allow the crt to recharge itself
so holding it there for longer will completly discharge it better..
when you power up the chassis listen for the hv charge up again.
as well as any build up of static charge on the front of tube
put your forearm near the face of tube does the hair on your arm raise up?
Another is use a HV probe, or check for any secondary voltages sent to
the neck board like focus voltage or screen voltages. its very inportant
to know if you have HV..
Heater or filament voltage come from the power supply not the Flyback!
so only knowing you have heater glow is not enough to bring to the
troubleshooting table. Its not uncommon to the have bad conections on
the video interface board mounted to the frame of chassis so checking it
first is a good idea for any symptom..before or after any repairs to chassis.
Odds are its not on your bench where mind would be so check the neck
board for all the voltages, the row of plugs to it..its not always what
the voltages are but is there any at all to the plug pins and good solder
on them too.
If you have HV then check dc on the crt pins on neck board
ofcoarse the cathodes need voltages at all times.
press the menu switch sometime to keep up any internal video information
it will help and dividing the loss of video if you do have HV and vertical deflection.
It all depends on what stage your at in Trouble shooting, i use whiteout to mark
the starting point of the master brightness or screen voltage on the fly,so
you can confirm its back where it started before you turned it,if it has nothing
to do with the problem.
Again its all about what you have and what is missing while trouble shooting
any monitor..if none of the large watt resistors on neck bd get warm then odds
are they don't have any voltage on them, or not drawing any current and the
video transistors may not be working. all this takes about five minutes to check..
on the neck board..
If the set was working before you touched it then you might think about bad connections
and the way the picture look before. the set will display a internal signal with no signal
from the game after a minute or two..i use a scope and dvm to track down all dc and
waveform for RGB.if you don,t have either then you might send out the chassis for repair.
Not all caps fail on this chassi but the vertical stands out in my experince and will cause
a high pitch noise. and the vertical ic still be good,but its part of my cap kit to restore
the chassis for a long life. Your probably looking for a quick fix and not a song and dance
but i would think you want a 100% from the chassis so check over the chassis good.