D9200 -- color bias?

roothorick

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So, these monitors have color gain in the OSD menu, but what about color bias? Or is it self-adjusting / not adjustable on these chassis, and an excess of red in dark areas is a symptom of a larger problem?

I'm trying to get a good photo, but my cellphone seems to "color balance" and the problem doesn't show up very well in photos. It's a minor issue, but it's in #2 in a pair of Rush 2049s, and #1 has a PRISTINE monitor so the color problem on #2 stands out.
 
color issue

you can adjust the color more effectively from the factory adjustment screen. It's entered by holding down 2 of the control boards switches.....(which two I can't remember of hand) and going into the color bias screen settings. If I was infront of a monitor I could walk you through it....good luck.
 
you can adjust the color more effectively from the factory adjustment screen. It's entered by holding down 2 of the control boards switches.....(which two I can't remember of hand) and going into the color bias screen settings. If I was infront of a monitor I could walk you through it....good luck.

Hold down the DOWN and SEL buttons at the same time to access the factory menu. Then do a RE (memory recall). Then adjust all your colors and brightness up. Then exit to the normal menu and adjust the colors and brightness as necessary...
 
Wow, I didn't expect the factory menu to have options the regular OSD menu didn't! How naive of me :) I had to adjust the red bias really really low -- 49 IIRC, whereas the other two colors are 120-something -- but it looks even better than the other one, which I just noticed today is slightly out of focus. I'm gonna spend a few hours playing with these when I have the time -- I bet I can make them look brand new.
 
we have several games in our arcade with D9200s. well, 3 actually. 2 of them had various issues with primary colors taking a shit. one of them we actually sent away to PNL, this was back when I was first breaking into repairing video games, so I didn't know about a simple transistor replacement yet. the screen was completely blue. there was another that had no red. the one that was sent away to PNL worked fine for awhile, and then the blue went out on it. I wound up fixing both monitors myself at that point.

what's interesting is the 3rd monitor never exhibited any of these problems. I haven't had to do anything with it.

the PNL monitor though, is a unique bird. after all the work I've done on it, periodically the color biases will change on its own, or the service menu will randomly pop up on its own, and mysteriously the degauss doesn't work on it anymore either. it also has a fucked up flyback too, when I tried adjusting the focus it made some hisses and even shut down at one point, but I set it back and it's still working fine. I know that sounds horrible, but it is what it is I guess lol.

the color bias issue though is a common one, apparently there's a chip on the chassis that can get corrupted or something. it's encouraged that you do the factory restore first. the GOOD monitor and the PNL monitor for whatever reason have slightly different menus, but I think the restores work the same way in that you select the restore, and you have to hold the button down for a certain period of time to confirm that you want to do it.

from there, you can tinker with the bias settings. if they're way off at all though, like you got a double digit for one color and triples for another, I think that might mean something else entirely. you could try reflowing the solder on the transistors, cause I had one that still had color but it was extremely faint. turned out to be a cold solder thing. it should also be noted that the bias settings in the regular menu and the factory menu are independent of one another. make them even in the regular menu first, then do the factory one. I think there's drives and then biases too, there's like 3 adjustments in the factory menu.

don't drive any of them too high. I think that's what makes the transistors go pop. the ones that I serviced myself, I bought all new resistors (replacement here)for in addition to changing the transistors (replacement here). it's encouraged by Chad at arcadecup that you leave the biases turned down a little bit to extend the transistor life.

they're a pain in the dick, but all in all, they look very nice when they do work.

if you have any other questions let me know.
 
they're a pain in the dick, but all in all, they look very nice when they do work.

if you have any other questions let me know.

That's a great writeup, gives me hope for our Rushes.

The factory reset didn't have an effect on the red, but I could adjust it out with the bias settings. The monitor probably needs a cap kit though, either that or a new flyback -- the brightness jumps around on its own, almost like the flyback screen pot is borderline. It does look "wet" at the base of the knob, and the silicone seal just kind of fell off, so maybe it's leaking something.

One other thing, that I mentioned in my other thread but it got buried -- is it normal for a properly connected, running flyback to still zap you if you touch the wrong thing?
 
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yeah, if the flyback arcs it all, it's bad, kinda like the one I was messing with... which I'm just kind of nursing cause it works fine still at the settings it's at lol

reflow your color transistors and the white block resistors first, then try the bias adjustments again.

the one that never gave me problems, I lied, that was the one I had to reflow the red on, and it also had a wicked tilt like you describe. I think you already know about the tilt pot in the middle rear of the chassis, it's an analog adjustment. I never tried it myself, but I guess the yokes are bonded on these, so that probably explains the adjustment pot.

if that doesn't do anything, either the pot's bad or like you said it needs caps. and they have a SHITLOAD of them. north of 70.
 
There are other things that can shock the shit out of you besides the flyback...
 
There are other things that can shock the shit out of you besides the flyback...

Are any of those things close enough to the flyback for you to brush up against them when making adjustments?

Actually, should I be making adjustments on the flyback pots with my bare hands? I'm actually kind of scared of that monitor now... and it's still out of focus, and needs a bump on the screen pot.

-E- Come to think of it... if what I hit was HV, there would've been some lasting effects, yes? But it felt like mains current... tingly and my hand was perfectly normal afterwards. Maybe it was just B+?
 
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I've been zapped by 20EZs and Polos several times. I'm still here. lol

I'm not sure what you could've hit by a D9200 flyback though.
 
If the frame isn't properly grounded, you can sometimes get shocked by just touching something metal. Also, the HOT isn't too far away...
 
If the frame isn't properly grounded, you can sometimes get shocked by just touching something metal. Also, the HOT isn't too far away...

These 9200s (I believe they're 9204s but I'm not sure, how do you tell a 9202/9204/920x apart?) were factory-installed (80% sure... certainly was really professionally done in any case) in the cabinets they're currently in (Rush 2049 sit-downs) and the ground wire certainly looks intact, and doesn't move when I try to wiggle it... I suppose I should check that it's actually conducting. The monitors aren't isolated, which I understand is safe and typical for Wells D-series, but I wonder what side effects that has in terms of shorting things to places.
 
make sure the ground running up to the neck board is good and connected properly....this will cause you to good a good shock if it is not a good connection.
 
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