Cutting Lexan with curves ?

ctozzi

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I recently picked up a Terminator 2, and the control panel Lexan is of course all scratched up. It's cut on an angle with rounded edges and I have never cut lexan with angles. Any tips to help make it right the 1st time would be great. lexan is $$ so I don't really want to screw it up time after time.
Here is the shape:
http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/terminator2-300dpi-cpo3

I was also thinking of ordering this one and having no lexan overlay.


Thanks
Chris
 
i actually have that cutter from tq, works great. I might order the new cpo and see how it holds up.
 
I can only remember cutting Lexan once before many, many years ago. As I recall I used a router to make the curved cuts. You will have to be carfull though as it can melt with the high speed of the bit. Practice on the edge you will not use.
Would work well as far as pattern, like micksimmonds said, to use the old overlay to place the guide of the bit on. If you want a polished finish on the edges, you'll have to buff it out.
 
Find a plastics supplier locally (not Home Depot/Lowes) and take your original to them and ask them to cut you a new one with the same shape...
 
i was actually just looking at that on google here in vegas. There has to be someone here that does that.
 
Maybe I'm confused, but this is easy. Just lay some lexan on the control panel, clamp it along sides, and run a router around it. Just like laminant. Moving the clamps around as needed
 
Maybe I'm confused, but this is easy. Just lay some lexan on the control panel, clamp it along sides, and run a router around it. Just like laminant. Moving the clamps around as needed

I don't own a router, however after reading this post I might invest today and try it, any idea on what type of cutters to buy ? I'd rather not do this by trial and error.
Thanks
Chris
 
Great investment IMO

I have a Bosch model 1617
I use two different bits. Slot cutter for t molding and laminant trimmer for plexi and lam, it has bearing on the end to guide along the edge of wood.

I use it quite frequently, and love it. The bigger the base the straighter your cuts will be. The palm routers have too much play IMO.

Buy something today!
 
I too have the Bosch 1617 and it is a great router. I also, however, have the Bosch Colt -
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVS...QHTA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1327172067&sr=8-3

I have to say that I use the Colt for almost everything. It is the perfect size, has variable speed, and is very steady. Additionally, the 1617 is so big that clamps and material generally get in the way. I have even routed 3/4 MDF with the Colt - although it did struggle with that a bit :)

For the bit, I suggest going with MLCS.com - http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html

Good product and fast shipping. Their Katana bits are definitely worth the extra money just for their durability - though their standard bits work very well too and I have several.
Cheers,
Ray
 
I have NOS wood panel and NOS cpo for T2 if you want to stay original
 

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I use a variable speed saber saw with a carbide grit blade (the kind used for ceramic tile)....works great, just don't go too fast or the plastic will melt back together after its cut.
 
I cut Lexan all the time bought from the Home Depot.

Lexan has a much higher melting and burn temp than normal Plexi. Normal Plexi is the one that will melt quickly when cut and must be cooled with water while cutting. Noraml Plexi will crack a lot easier in general and when drilled, Lexan is pretty much unbreakable in general.

To cut Lexan, you use small tooth blade, that's what I use in my hand held jig saw.

I make fog lamp covers out of mine, to cover glass fog lamps.
 
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