Cutting holes in CPO

obitus1990

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I have a blank, repro metal control panel that I want to apply a CPO to. Problem is, the CPO does not have any kind of die-cut holes in it that I could use as a template for where I want to also cut the holes into the blank, metal control panel. Is there a tool I can use to produce the nice, perfectly cut circles that a die-cut CPO would ship with?

Thanks!
 
I have a blank, repro metal control panel that I want to apply a CPO to. Problem is, the CPO does not have any kind of die-cut holes in it that I could use as a template for where I want to also cut the holes into the blank, metal control panel. Is there a tool I can use to produce the nice, perfectly cut circles that a die-cut CPO would ship with?

Thanks!
NEIKO 02614A Interchangeable Large Hollow Hole Punch Tool Set, 10 Piece, Gasket Maker, Heavy Duty Gasket Punch Set, Includes Hole Puncher Tool Carrying Case, Leather Punch Set

 
I'd still say the reverse approach is the best way. You cut the holes in the metal CP first. Measure best you can to put them exactly where you want them. THEN put the CPO on and use a exact knife to precisely cut the holes in the CPO in the exact place the holes exist in the metal panel. Otherwise, if you do it the way you are thinking, you risk the holes not really matching up precisely
 
I think there's more a risk in things not lining up correctly in this situation if I drill the holes first. The buttons/joysticks go in predetermined spots on the CPO, and I don't have much faith that I can get all of that measured exactly enough to transfer over to the metal panel to drill it.
NEIKO 02614A Interchangeable Large Hollow Hole Punch Tool Set, 10 Piece, Gasket Maker, Heavy Duty Gasket Punch Set, Includes Hole Puncher Tool Carrying Case, Leather Punch Set


Have you used one of these for this purpose? It looks like you have to hit these punches with a mallet/hammer. Guess I am concerned that would crack the polycarbonate laminate on top of the vinyl by doing so. Button holes are also 1 1/8" inch diameter, and that kit has 1 1/4" as the closest size. Would that then be too big for the button's flange to cover?
 
I think there's more a risk in things not lining up correctly in this situation if I drill the holes first. The buttons/joysticks go in predetermined spots on the CPO, and I don't have much faith that I can get all of that measured exactly enough to transfer over to the metal panel to drill it.


Have you used one of these for this purpose? It looks like you have to hit these punches with a mallet/hammer. Guess I am concerned that would crack the polycarbonate laminate on top of the vinyl by doing so. Button holes are also 1 1/8" inch diameter, and that kit has 1 1/4" as the closest size. Would that then be too big for the button's flange to cover?
I cut them smaller for the buttons to give it a start and location, and then after application, I then use the an exacto knife to cut them to final size, if the edges are little rough, they are hidden under the lip of the button. For the joystick holes that are exposed, I use the punch to get a very nice clean cut. As long as the punches are sharp they cut right through with no issues.
 
I think there's more a risk in things not lining up correctly in this situation if I drill the holes first. The buttons/joysticks go in predetermined spots on the CPO, and I don't have much faith that I can get all of that measured exactly enough to transfer over to the metal panel to drill it.
I see what you are saying. The CPO's graphics has them little circle things to say "hole goes here" (in a sense), and you feel if you do it the normal way, then you might get a button/etc.. slightly off center and it will look bad because the graphics outline the suppose to be place ?

If so - I do agree that the approach you want to do makes sense. But I warn you, still, being slightly off center on them graphics is less serious than being slightly off center from the actual hole in the CP. Let me walk you through my concern. So I imagine you want to punch the holes cleanly through the CPO first to get them dead balls accurate to the graphics. Then position the CPO on the metal CP and mark the holes, then drill them holes in the CP. Right ?

So, IMO all holes drilled in metal "walk" a tiny bit before actually digging in, unless done professionally, and even then I've seen them walk a touch. Meaning you most likely could easily be off by 1/16" of your marked location. The buttons fit in that metal hole, not just your CPO hole, so then the button will still sit off a little from them graphics AND you'd have to clean up the rest of the hole on the CPO to match the hole on the CP that walked a touch. now you got a off round CPO hole and button still sitting off the graphics.

Not a big deal, but I just think either way you got a chance of something happening that you don't like, and me personally I'd rather have the CP and CPO holes dead on match than worry about them graphic circles lining perfectly up. And IMO there is more of a chance you get it perfect the way I describe. But hey, I could be wrong. Definitely do what you feel is most comfortable for you.
 
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Wondering if the Greenlee 1-1/8" punch would cut through a cpo nicely...? (I honestly don't know) But it makes the cleanest edged holes in metal, and is super easy to do.

If I remember when I get home today, I'll try cutting through a thin piece of steel with an overlay on it to test...
 
This kinda thing, but I wouldn't buy this one, shipping is waaaaay too high... I paid $30 shipped for mine a few months ago.

 
I have a blank, repro metal control panel that I want to apply a CPO to. Problem is, the CPO does not have any kind of die-cut holes in it that I could use as a template for where I want to also cut the holes into the blank, metal control panel. Is there a tool I can use to produce the nice, perfectly cut circles that a die-cut CPO would ship with?

Thanks!

Just drill the holes in the control panel, smooth out the edges, then apply the cpo. Using a precision blade, just trace out the circle. Will come out nice and smooth.

Example:


If finding placement for holes, just use a nail and hammer the center of where you want to button to go through the CPO while laying on top of the CP. Is it that you need a template for the specific locations relative to the CP?
 
If you have a local metal shop, they can EDM or water jet cut holes exactly as you want them.

You do have to know where you want the holes, and what size they are.

I gave one a tow bar for my plane, and they made a duplicate. They have water-jet cut dinosaurs out front.

The punches work, but again, you have to know exactly where you are putting the holes in that nice, clean CP.

You could take the overlay, tape it down when properly aligned, and then use a needle punch in the exact middle of each hole in the overlay to mark the middle. Then you just need to measure the OD of everything and figure out where to go.
 
I use the same one @alexcc mentioned.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-punch-driver-kit-96718.html

I made a template, based on the diagram in the MK manual.
I taped it down, then hit each button with a punch to make a divot for the drill bit to sit in.
Then I drilled it out with a 1/16" pilot hole, followed with a 1/8" bit.
Then a stepped drill bit just big enough so the shaft of the hydraulic punch fit.
The smallest cutter in that Harbor Freight set is perfectly button sized.
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All great suggestions... I had a custom CPO made for Ikari Warriors to use on a repro cabinet that is something other than a Dynamo HS-1. I aligned the CPO approximately where I think things should line up on the blank metal panel I had purchased for this project, then clamped it down to the CP onto my workbench. I then used a countersink punch and marked the dead center of each location where I think a button should be, as well as where the joystick should be. I was able to fit this onto my drill press for MOST of the holes, except for two, so I made the small pilot holes. I ordered one of those Greenlee punches that @jawhn linked to, but, for $30 shipped, as I already had a kit of the harbor freight ones, but they did not have a 1 1/8" hole size in the kit. I'll enlarge the holes and use the punch once it comes in.

My conundrum with this was that I needed to figure out a way to transfer the button/joystick locations onto the metal control panel before I drilled it, so the countersink punch was the key.
 
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