Cut the Cheese LCD problem (that and searching for a manual)

travisbmartin

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Cut the Cheese LCD problem (that and searching for a manual)

The arcade I work at has a Sega Pinball Cut the Cheese redemption game that has a few annoying issues about it.

The most annoying thing about it is the LCD. I keep seeing it flicker or have some sort of noise problem that garbles the images.

Here's a really bad phone video recording of it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNzxVIcPmJo

It starts and ends fine with little problem, but when they show the mouse walking across the screen it looks really bad.

I have no manual at all for this game, and with it apparently designed similar to a pinball game I'm not sure where to start on it.

Just looking for some ideas. Thanks.
 
lol, we have that game in our arcade too. mysteriously the sound sometimes will start making obnoxious scratching sounds right, and I can't find any loose connections or anything, so I just randomly wiggle wires around until it disappears.

it's actually a dot matrix display, not trying to be a prick. :)

your software revision is totally different from ours btw! ours doesn't do half the stuff that's showing up with Sonic and such.

my best guess is to check all the connections going into the DMD, and follow them back to the main board, make sure no wires or ribbon cables (I'm thinking) have any cuts/frays/etc. in them.

if that doesn't get it, visually inspect the DMD itself, see if anything looks wrong with it.

btw, what kind of bulbs do you have in the flashing hat lights? that's like the only thing I haven't figured out yet.
 
Your right, I should have caught myself when I said it was an LCD. My bad 8^)


The jiggle here and there method is one we use as well. I do it somedays to make the DMD show anything. But I know where that wire is so I can at least put a new connector in for that.

The flashing hat lights. Do you mean the dozen or so on the rightmost and leftmost side of the playfield? Set up as a runway? I pulled one out and those are 89 TWN bulbs. Hope that's what you were asking for.
 
I wish it wasn't so damn easy to spell JACKPOT on it. you get little kids, they just putz around and spend all their tokens. get some adults, all they do is hold the token aimer in place and bam, you hear that "BLINK" "BLINK" "BLINK" sound for like 2 hours.

this is one of those games that works, so I don't mess with it. what is the connector in question, like a .156 molex?
 
btw, if you're seeking a manual, you MIGHT not find it. I do remember a couple years ago we tried calling Sega about it and they were extremely anal about it cause it's technically a Sega Pinball game. does the Sega Pinball division even exist still??

and no, we didn't get the manual. figures lol
 
The molex I'm thinking of is a 4 pin going up to the back of the DMD. when you open the back of the game it's more or less situated in the middle of the wiring below the DMD.

Does the toilet on yours work? I have never seen the lid on ours work. We propped it open, which of course make it easier to win.
 
oh no shit? that's supposed to be closed????

the flush handle moves on ours. I didn't know the toilet's supposed to be closed. no wonder these bastards win so much on it.
 
That's what the old manager and gameroom tech told me. Then again, he also said there was no way to get parts for our Wacky Gator.

I'm going to have to dig around in this game some more. Try and figure out if it IS supposed to close.

You would think it would move to make it harder...lol maybe I don't have to fix that feature after all. haha
 
Sorry I never got back about this faster. My time at work has been taken up by about three other projects.

After talking to the only person who has worked at the arcade longer than me, I can confirm that the toilet lid does move. Or at least it's supposed to. He apparently there when they bought it and brought it into the arcade.

He also reminded me of how the old owner used to clear the playfield of coins by rocking the entire game left and right. Which is probably 90% of why the game is basically junked at the moment.

I'll try to actually poke around in the game this week. I want to improve the playfield switches as it is.
 
If the display is anything like Sonic the Hedgehog machines then they seem to run hot. We had one that worked fine, but drew enough current to blow the fuse every now and again.

Came across this, it may help - http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf
And yeah, that came from the Stern site, so maybe they bought out Sega Pinball or something, worth giving them a call.
 
Stern Pinball is Sega Pinball. The company changed names after it changed owners. It is possible that Stern has some of the older manuals, and another great source is The Pinball Resource www.pbresource.com

When contacting The Pinball Resource you should call or email with questions, they seem to have very little of their inventory listed online.
 
From pictures I have seen the boards look to be the same as used in Data East pinballs so the info at www.pinrepair.com should help. A common problem with these games are the connectors on the power supply (both the ones in the bulletin and other on the power supply) and also the capacitors on the power supply (especially the ones near the heatsink)
 
we have a similar problem with ours. The display will go out and when you open the back door and mess with the wires, it will look great again for a while. We have soldered on it many times looking for bad solder with no luck.

The tolet lid should automatically go up and down making it a skill shoot. Most of the time
they don't work. I think there is a relay board on the bottom of the playfield and check for bad solder. That motor is usually good but the gears will strip out on the gearbox. It is a commony pinball type playfield motor and gearbox but you have to buy it complete with gearbaox and motor and is a little expensive $150 ish.
Eric
Cointech
 
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