Cruis'n USA and a CGA/ EGA Converter, Works fine but jitters

john2654

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Cruis'n USA and a CGA/ EGA Converter, Works fine but jitters

Cruis'n USA and a CGA/ EGA Converter, Works fine but jitters.

I just did another Cruis'n USA and there are no issues. This is the second one and it looks fine except there is a constant screen jitters multiple times a second.

I have it hooked up exactly as I have the other one, but this time I used a brand new converter (mfg. 2017). My other one was 2015. Tried another new 2017 converter with same result.

Using 12 Volts. Grey sync wire only. Clamp settings 4 & 5.

 
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i just went thru this, only figured it out last week, with some help from a guy here. he said add a dummy vga cable to the card. that help, but not enough. i also noticed just putting a scope lead on the signal make it better. anyway, put a resistor on the sync wire to the board, i used a 4.7k, i think 1k and up would work. now im jitter free.
 
tie both sync wires together from the conv to the jamma harness single sync wire... I had to do that also to get a game to sync with my monitor. don't know what clamp settings are 4 & 5 are so cant help with that 1.. I am using just +5 for the conv and it works just fine, I think that's what it just needs and defin not +12 for power lol...
tested it with neogeo, area 51 site 4, rwt and sf2ww, no issues...
 
I tried putting a resistor inline and the two I had made the screen mostly black and then sometimes the screen would display.

I also tried putting a VGA cable on the output and it made the jitter way worse.

I've used 5 Volts before and everyone told me my before issues were because it may not be enough power. I do know that these run on 5 - 12 Volts as my other Cruis'n is running at 12 (plus says right on the board).
 
I tried putting a resistor inline and the two I had made the screen mostly black and then sometimes the screen would display.

I also tried putting a VGA cable on the output and it made the jitter way worse.

I've used 5 Volts before and everyone told me my before issues were because it may not be enough power. I do know that these run on 5 - 12 Volts as my other Cruis'n is running at 12 (plus says right on the board).

gonbees conv board needs +5v to work properly, u need to run a extra set to the board directly. ground can be tied to rest of the ground and run +5v from the power supply directly. make sure the game has correct voltages hooked up...

look into the gonbees conv settings, I think you may solve the issue by adjusting the single setting in its menu.. watch the video I linked, you may be surprised.

did you tie both sync wires together from the conv board to the single wire from the jamma harness?
 
Tried switching it to 5 volts, still the same.
Tried adding the yellow to the grey sync wire, still the same.
 
Figured it out. Yellow sync wire does NOT need to be connected.
5 volts or 12 volts works.

I get screen jitter only when the 25 pin linking cable is plugged in. Unplug the cable and the screen is fine.
Must be getting some interference or the cable is bad.

And for the record, I just manually checked the pins on the linking cable.
It is for sure a 25 pin male to male straight through cable.
 
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That's weird I have the same issue. I have a dual Cruisn USA with the same cga ega converters. With the 25 pin straight through cable plugged in, my player 2 screen jitters on and off. I can't remember where, but I read somewhere that cleaning the 25 pin connector in the cab could help with the problem. I haven't had the time to try it on mine yet.
 
Wow, yeah that is the exact issue. Player 2 is the problem. Unplug linking cable and it's fine.

Well I bought 2 new headers and a new cable and will see how that does.

Another note, I swapped the Cruis'n PCBs and the issue followed the board.
 
I had another idea, I swapped the master and slave settings on the machines and the issue followes the slave (player 2). Doesn't matter which cabinet or PCB.
 
Same thing for me. I remember when I was troubleshooting it awhile back that it followed whichever one was set as slave. I had swapped a bunch of parts and determined it wasn't the power supply, pcb, harness, or monitor.

I tried different brands and lengths of the 25 pin connector with no luck.

I also tried cleaning the sync before the converter by using an lm1881, and also using this circuit:
http://martin-jones.com/2014/09/16/that-syncing-feeling-classic-arcade-games-that-wont-stay-still/

None of it worked. I gave up on the problem. I suspected that the converter just didn't work well with the way this game would output sync on the slave pcb. I only read about possible dirty 25 pins headers on the board, but I haven't tried it yet.

It's nice to finally see someone else is troubleshootong the same problem. There's got to be a fix for this, but I don't have time to look at it now. Keep posting your progress and let me know if I can help.
 
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Replacement parts came in but the cable must be too thin as both machines keep resetting.
The 25 pin connectors work ok, but have no effect on fixing the issue.
If the issue is with the original cable, I won't know. Giving up on this and calling it as it is.
 
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