CRT Brightener removal...flyback, too?

modessitt

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I have two U5000's that came into the shop for repair (and have since been fixed). One has a CRT brightener attached. I think it is causing problems because sometimes all of the colors will get overhot. I'll adjust them back down, and then the screen will get really dark and I'll have to adjust them back up - where they'll stay good.

I'd like to take it off, but this is where it gets tricky. The anode wire goes from the flyback up to the cup. There is another anode wire from the brightener to the cup (two wires going into the cup). The brightener has another smaller wire that comes out the other side and gets attached to the frame ground.

Am I going to have to replace the flyback to get rid of the brightener? Or is there a way to remove it the way it is?
 
I have had the same problem and I just replaced the whole thing. It looked like the brightener was integral to the operation of the flyback to me...
 
I have had the same problem and I just replaced the whole thing. It looked like the brightener was integral to the operation of the flyback to me...

I've removed the brightened on a K7000 - were it goes from the flyback to the brightener to the cup - by just cutting the brightener out and splicing the anode wire, and had no problems doing so. I've never seen one like this, though...
 
Okay, this is the brightener. The black wire is tied to a screw on the frame. The red wire goes to the anode cup:

SDC12159.jpg


Here is the anode cup with the wire from the flyback and the wire from the brightener:

SDC12160.jpg


Here is an entire pic showing how it's all interconnected:

SDC12163.jpg
 
Appears to be a capacitor judging by the part number on it. Similar to the one on Zenith K7000a.

It would appear that you replace the flyback to get rid of it.

I believe these are the flyback numbers to use to replace it:

053X0624-001

053X0642-001

HR8599
 
Thanks, Ken. That's what I was afraid of. I have a parts chassis I can pull a flyback off of to see if that helps...
 
If I recall, that is indeed just a capacitor like Ken said.
Used to help quickly bleed off voltage from when the screen flashes for like gun/shooting games that flash the screen bright white when a shot was fired. (helps the guns register)
Or something to that affect.

I would "think" that you could remove it at the anode cup and have it setup just like a regular flyback. Of course you'd want to make sure everything is still well insulated and such.

Any new flyback will NOT have that on it.
I've ordered a replacement before for a chassis that had one of those capacitors like yours and the new flyback did not have one.

But the issue could still be a flaky screen/focus pot like a typical flyback problem.
So that would mean replacing the flyback anyways.
 
The funny thing is, when I was bench testing it, the monitor worked fine. I bumped the brightener and the screen got extra bright. Adjusted it back down and then it got dark and had to adjust it back up. Drove over an hour to the customers house, put it in, hear the monitor turn on - and no picture at all.

So, back on the bench it goes, and I'm getting rid of the brightened to see if that's the cause...
 
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