Crossbow Resto

Doesn't it? Like, WTF is that coin door?
And where is the bell housing for the gun on the right? Why is the side art on the one on the left die cut further down than the one on the right? Why does the cab shape of the one on the left just look wrong? Left marquee looks kind of weird too.
 
I think this side by side picture answers your question though. There were two different upright styles. Even the coin doors are different.
You installed the cpo from the left game, and your game is clearly the one on the right. And your game had that cpo on it originally in your pics.
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Well, I wouldn't consider that side-by-side picture an accurate historical document. I've never seen the cabinet style on the left. And though the cabinet style on the right seems correct, the gun assembly is completely wrong. The only two true exidy shooter cab styles that I know of are these:

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The one on the left looks like neither. Seems like a cabinet for a foreign market.
 
Both the machines in my pic and the @GORFguyOhio pic are abominations. ABOMINATIONS !!! @Phetishboy s pic above are the actual releases.
Lol. I only shared the flyer. He's got the rare oddball NOS cpo on his cabinet. End of story. Let's not over complicate this. We're all friends here. I hope. 😉
 
Ok, went camping this weekend and left the machine alone in the heat and humidity. Went to check the NOS CPO yesterday afternoon and found that it had lost adhesion in several areas. That coupled with the kinks and wrinkles that just wouldn't come out made me decide to just pull the bitch back off. I then masked off and painted the exposed particle board.

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I will now laminate the plywood like I did on my Cheyenne, and then install the repro CPO with the castle bricks over that.

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I was thinking of this method as a way to install side art myself. Seal with flat laminate, install the art over the laminate.
 
Those cabinets may have just been mock-ups for the show flyer. David Willis told me they often rushed to get new artwork done for the show samples, and they were rarely finished designs used in production. It stands to reason they would be in a rush to mock up cabinets for marketing efforts. Not really about cost as they had the 8-color production line running smoothly. The NOS art you found could have been leftovers Willis sold to operators, or variations they sold in the same way they knocked off their own artwork designs for Centuri.

Either way, love the resto.
 
Those cabinets may have just been mock-ups for the show flyer. David Willis told me they often rushed to get new artwork done for the show samples, and they were rarely finished designs used in production. It stands to reason they would be in a rush to mock up cabinets for marketing efforts. Not really about cost as they had the 8-color production line running smoothly. The NOS art you found could have been leftovers Willis sold to operators, or variations they sold in the same way they knocked off their own artwork designs for Centuri.

Either way, love the resto.
Well, I feel bad about the NOS piece I used, because now it's no good. Tried to stick it back down to the old paper, but there's just too many little particleboard chunks underneath the adhesive. And the other one isn't even usable. It probably could be saved and displayed, but it'll never work putting it on a game. I should be able to somehow trim the white off the sides of the repro and use that, it seems to be a lot better shape as far as flexibility and adhesive.
 
Well, I feel bad about the NOS piece I used, because now it's no good. Tried to stick it back down to the old paper, but there's just too many little particleboard chunks underneath the adhesive. And the other one isn't even usable. It probably could be saved and displayed, but it'll never work putting it on a game. I should be able to somehow trim the white off the sides of the repro and use that, it seems to be a lot better shape as far as flexibility and adhesive.
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I wouldn't beat yourself up on that one. You gave it a shot. Anything with adhesive has a shelf life, and this was well past its prime. What's the alternative? Frame it?
 
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I've purchase a few NOS side art pieces for games and have been disappointed with the looks of them, mainly from the wrinkled and beaten beyond usability angle. Thinking about the adhesive now and @Aeolus7 is exactly right. Some parts go bad just because of time passing, not much to do about it and no reason to fret over it.
 
I've purchase a few NOS side art pieces for games and have been disappointed with the looks of them, mainly from the wrinkled and beaten beyond usability angle. Thinking about the adhesive now and @Aeolus7 is exactly right. Some parts go bad just because of time passing, not much to do about it and no reason to fret over it.
Yeah, Sucks but I shoulda just laminated it first. I shoulda known it would never stick to that raised grain plywood even after adding sealer. Oh well, I'm over it.
 
Good call.
Ok, went camping this weekend and left the machine alone in the heat and humidity. Went to check the NOS CPO yesterday afternoon and found that it had lost adhesion in several areas. That coupled with the kinks and wrinkles that just wouldn't come out made me decide to just pull the bitch back off. I then masked off and painted the exposed particle board.

View attachment 755735

I will now laminate the plywood like I did on my Cheyenne, and then install the repro CPO with the castle bricks over that.

View attachment 755736
THe only time I have put anything directly on wood that looked good it needed at least two coats of spar varnish first, with days of dry time and sanding between.
Anything less very noticeably telegraphs grain and imperfections.
The laminate first will do nicely.
 
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