Crazy problem, Cruisn USA seat speaker

doodlesdaddy

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Finally got around to really sprucin up my Cruisn USA. It has great side art, barely any scuffs, so I was going to repaint all the black, install New T molding, new bulbs, the usual. I have come up with a new and better way of painting black, more on that later......so, spent about 4 hours on it, put it all back together and noticed the seat speaker, under the seat was not playing. Opened it up, jumpered wires from the dash speaker to it, seat speaker works fine. Ok, must be wiring, right? Well, I was also getting a little shock while touching the dash speaker, and the seat speaker. My experience told me it was an AC shock.
I shpuld stop and point out that game plays perfectly, everything but seat speaker works.

I traced the wires back to the back, a green ground wire, and two speaker wires, all looks good. Used DMM and buzzed out the ground wire, to verify the connector under the seat was connected still.....all good. Followed speaker wires to PCB, they were on the correct P3 plug, along with the dash speaker.......
If your still with me, this is where it gets wierd.
Dash speaker outputs work fine, obviously, but seat speaker outputs are putting out 16 volts......yep, you read that right
I then jumpered wires from the dash speaker to the plug for the seat speaker, guess what, speaker doesnt play now.....muat be a break in the wire....further inspection, yes there is, fixed it. Still puzzled over 16 volts at seat speaker output on PCB....For some silly idea, hooked it up anyway, speaker hummed loudly, so i unplugged it.
I then remember the nice shock i was getting from the dash speaker housing. Took a look at the switcher and found that the Field Ground was hooked up to one of the AC inputs!!!!!!!!!! Did I mention that game works great? Verified and hooked it up correctly, no more shocky shock on speaker housings, all grounds tied together, wiring is dead on with manual. I would also like to point out that all components, transformer, pcb, switcher, wheel board, all have exact same serial number. No hacks in the harness. Wierd.
Back to initial problem, PCB seat speaker output still only outputing 16 volts, no speaker signal.
Im no genius at reading schematics, but it looks like the dash speaker is high, like a tweeter, and the seat speaker is low, like a subwoofer.
Im at a loss, obviously I could jumper dash speakers to seat speaker, but that would be a high signal, and i would like bass if possible.


Can somebody smart please read the schematic and explain why the low pass, seat speaker output at P3 pins 4 and 5 is putting out 16 vdc?????????? The schematic says there is possibly 16 vdc at the low pass part of thr amplifier, but its kinda hard for me to understand. Guess thats the only question in this ramble. Please help!!
 
If your getting a buzz at a constant voltage level then you probably have a bad audio amplifier for the sub. If I recall right there should also be a mid ranged speaker in the dash (I think its on the right). Does it work? The dash speakers might share an amplifier IC and the sub probably has its own amp IC.
 
hi, thanks for responding. The dash speakers both work, and are tied together, and receive their audio signal from the PCB plug P3, pins 1 and 2. The seat speaker, or sub, gets its signal supposedly from PCB plug P3, pins 4 and 5, but this is where I read 16 volts. So you think i need an IC? What is that, and is it something an amatear could fix? Thanks
 
The IC in question would be an amplifier IC. Its probably some where in the neighborhood of 10-14 pins and mounted on a heatsink. If you can desolder then you should be able to replace it. Ive never had to remove any parts from those boards but if they are anything like their pinball counterparts the boards are REALLY easy to screw up.

If your not comfortable with removing the part you should find some one that is.
 
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