Crazy Climber Taito US sprites issue.

When you have a dead sprite-eprom, the sprites are most often shown as solid blocks.

The fault may be in the multiplexer section where background and sprites are mixed together (missing switch-signal).
 
Do you have a computer or laptop.
If so you could do with investing in a top853 eprom programmer and some eproms to replace the ones you think are dodgy.
The top should be less than £30 and it's worth learning about eprom burning if you are going to own arcade pcbs.
 
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Remember:

CC uses 2532 or 2732 EPROMs on the top-board (jumperable) and 2716 EPROMs on the bottom-board!

My board uses 2532.

So if your Board is stuffed with 2532 EPROMs, an actual (cheap) eprommer (normally) can't read them directly. You need an adapter. And you can't write them with a cheap one.
 
You're measuring your 5v at the 5101 incorrectly. Honestly it's better to clip your ground of your meter to a ground point on the board and then probe voltage with just the red lead. There's less of a chance of shorting two legs with your probe and frying something. Based on that I would guess that the reading you have there is incorrect.

Looking at your switching power supply wiring is a little confusing. Why are your lines for 5v, 12v, ground bundled together like that? They should have their own individual wire with a connector at the lug of the power supply. Bundling them together like defeats the entire purpose of having multiple wires.

5.1 - 5.2 is too high. You want as close to 5.0v at the chips as possible. Too high a voltage can cause strange things to happen.
 
You're measuring your 5v at the 5101 incorrectly. Honestly it's better to clip your ground of your meter to a ground point on the board and then probe voltage with just the red lead. There's less of a chance of shorting two legs with your probe and frying something. Based on that I would guess that the reading you have there is incorrect.

Looking at your switching power supply wiring is a little confusing. Why are your lines for 5v, 12v, ground bundled together like that? They should have their own individual wire with a connector at the lug of the power supply. Bundling them together like defeats the entire purpose of having multiple wires.

5.1 - 5.2 is too high. You want as close to 5.0v at the chips as possible. Too high a voltage can cause strange things to happen.

Yeah they should have their own connections but that's a cosmetic thing. As far as voltages, I've tried it high, low and right on the money. No matter where I set it the screen stays the same. It was set at 5.1 because there is a slight drop from the top board to the bottom board. To get the correct 5v on the bottom board it has so be a pinch higher. I really think the power is fine. I need to continue looking at the next probable cause.....
 
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No, it is not a cosmetic thing. Good luck with your repair.

How not? If all the individual wires go to the same point on the power supply individually, which would mean they all touch anyhow, how would the wires being soldered together make any difference as far as functionality? Not trying to argue, Just trying to fix my crazy Climber....I didn't configure the wires this way either. The PO did.
 
Ok so today I got a crazy Climber high scores saves kit in the mail which does as the title implies along with some other cool features. The instructions say that when using this board. It doesn't need ROM 7 through 11 (US versions) installed at all as it has this information on its own board. It also uses a new z80 chip. So I installed it and pulled 7 through 11 and I get a jumbled screen. It looks like a crazy Climber checker board with fragments of images in a checker pattern. This doesn't tell me much. But I think it points to an issue outside of the 7-11 game ROMs. I'm thinking my issue is on the video board. Maybe ROMs 1 -6 or the 5101 ram chips? Any way to check these? I ordered new complete set of roms 1- 13 just so I can eliminate that as the issue, while I wait on those though I'd like to keep at this and check everything I can. I don't have arcade repair tools on hand but I do have a spare Tron pcb. I was wondering if it had the same 5101 chips I could test my crazy climber with?
 
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Made progress today, or should I say in the midnight hours. I removed and reseated the 5101 chips probably 10 times with no changes. I had everything original and I was switching the cyan block back in forth with the new save kit because with the block installed I get a my goofed up version of crazy climber and with the save kit I get a checker like scrambled screen. So knowing the save kit bypasses ROMs 7-11. I pulled ROMs 1-6 and reseated those. Now with the cyan block I get a much better version of glitchy crazy climber, the guy and enemies are back! The save kit still will not work properly though. Currently with the block installed crazy climber is playable but there are still glitches. The building logo, main logo and birds are stretched and choppy. I'm guessing ROMs 1-6 have an error on them somewhere or at least the issue is related to those ROMs. I'll know for sure when I get my new set of roms chips soon. At least I can play while trying to figure this out ! Haha.. last picture is with the save kit plugged in. Just for reference. When the screen looses the guy I start pressing on the 1-6 ROMs and get it back to this state in these photos. Thoughts?
 

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How not? If all the individual wires go to the same point on the power supply individually, which would mean they all touch anyhow, how would the wires being soldered together make any difference as far as functionality? Not trying to argue, Just trying to fix my crazy Climber....I didn't configure the wires this way either. The PO did.

Maybe I am just not understanding what I am seeing.

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What I think I see is a bundle of 5 wires soldered together to make 1 wire. That is all heat shrink together and then one wire goes to the power supply lug. If that's what I am seeing that is wrong regardless of what the prior owner did. Bundling them all up defeats the purpose of having multiple wires in the first place.

What you should have is 5 individual wires or at least 2 or 3 bundles with an individual wire going to the lug at the power supply.

And you do still have a voltage problem. 5.2v is too high and could/will cause damage to components. You are better off with slightly below 5 than above 5.1/5.2

I would make that one change to your harness at the power supply and then dial it back so you're getting 5.1 at the roms on the top board which will give you slightly below 5.0 on the bottom board.
 
Maybe I am just not understanding what I am seeing.

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What I think I see is a bundle of 5 wires soldered together to make 1 wire. That is all heat shrink together and then one wire goes to the power supply lug. If that's what I am seeing that is wrong regardless of what the prior owner did. Bundling them all up defeats the purpose of having multiple wires in the first place.

What you should have is 5 individual wires or at least 2 or 3 bundles with an individual wire going to the lug at the power supply.

And you do still have a voltage problem. 5.2v is too high and could/will cause damage to components. You are better off with slightly below 5 than above 5.1/5.2

I would make that one change to your harness at the power supply and then dial it back so you're getting 5.1 at the roms on the top board which will give you slightly below 5.0 on the bottom board.

I currently have it set at 5.1 and I have exactly 5v at the bottom board, I'll eventually mess with the soldered wires too. If it's any difference, The wire that goes to the power supply is 2-3 times as thick as the little single wires soldered to it from the harness plug. I think the POs idea was to extend the power supply terminal with a big thick gauge wire then he soldered the individual harness wires to it. Im guessing the individual connecters probably were getting in the way of each other at the little terminal point. My attached pic shows this on the main power in with only 2 wires on that point. The heal of the connectors pushes the one above it and below it out of the way, so maybe that's why? Idk. Anyways, it appears I have an issue with my 1 - 6 ROMs though. After reseating those I got a much better picture with only some minor glitches. I've ordered a complete set of roms 1 - 13 that will confirm or revoke my progress. If I move the lower board around sometimes the game goes back to the guy missing with no enemies. It seems sensitive. All I have to do is push on the 1-6 ROMs some and it goes back to where it is in my last pictures. That is how the screen was when I bought it, working but slightly glitchy so to speak.
 

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When you have a dead sprite-eprom, the sprites are most often shown as solid blocks.

The fault may be in the multiplexer section where background and sprites are mixed together (missing switch-signal).

The same eproms are used for sprites and background on galaxian hardware, hence if the eproms were bad, there would be far worse issues than missing sprites.
 
Remember:

CC uses 2532 or 2732 EPROMs on the top-board (jumperable) and 2716 EPROMs on the bottom-board!

My board uses 2532.

So if your Board is stuffed with 2532 EPROMs, an actual (cheap) eprommer (normally) can't read them directly. You need an adapter. And you can't write them with a cheap one.

I just noticed my 1-6 eproms are 2716 but my 7- 13 eproms are 8532? See pics below. Why is this?
 

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8532 are 2732-compatible

I understand this game came in different versions, how do I know for sure that my pcb board is U.S. like I believe it to be and not a Japan one? Are the pcbs different between U.S. and Japan or is the only difference the roms? Is there any in-game differences that would determine U.S. vs Japan? I don't know much about this cabinet's journey since new. So it's plausible the PCB inside may not be the original. Just trying to thoroughly go though this cabinet.
 
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Remember:

CC uses 2532 or 2732 EPROMs on the top-board (jumperable) and 2716 EPROMs on the bottom-board!

My board uses 2532.

So if your Board is stuffed with 2532 EPROMs, an actual (cheap) eprommer (normally) can't read them directly. You need an adapter. And you can't write them with a cheap one.
@SamWhiskey Necro bumping, but I just pulled in 2 sets of CC boards. One is mixed 8532 (2732) and 2532 and not booting. I am assuming that you can have either 2532 OR 2732, not both. Where do I find jumper settings in user manual? I have found 2 sets of jumper pads on the PCB but dont know which setting is for which.

Thanks!
 
@SamWhiskey Necro bumping, but I just pulled in 2 sets of CC boards. One is mixed 8532 (2732) and 2532 and not booting. I am assuming that you can have either 2532 OR 2732, not both. Where do I find jumper settings in user manual? I have found 2 sets of jumper pads on the PCB but dont know which setting is for which.

Thanks!
Found answers. Posted in new thread.

 
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