CR25 is What I get? Darn... For Tube#A48ABW20x

Thomas

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I sold and shipped my rejuv today and on the way home is an old JC Pennys Tv. I am telling myself it's to good to be true and pull over anyway. Size it up a look all over to see if its a 19. Nothing on it nada no fricken words...

So throw it in the trunk and get home. First thing out of my mouth is get me a Phillips... Pull the back cover and I end up with Tube#A48ABW20X.

http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/100-CRT.pdf

Err... Thats got to be the sixth tv I have brought home that was wrong. Man this sucks....

So I figured I will post and maybe someone will tell me how to tell... Before I haul more junk home.

Next time I am taking the back off where I find it at. Screwdriver goes in the glove box! This is bs
 
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Thanks ken what kind of machine use's those style monitors? Anything worthy of a mention?
 
See that's the crappy part when someone starts talking about how easy it is to tube swap. Any monkey can swap hardware but locating a compatible tube is a completely different issue.
I gave up and took the easy route. Buy any damn 19" tv you want to, measure the imepedance of the yellow and green (what ever color is next to the yellow wire sometimes brown), count the number of pins on the end of the tube and go to paypal and send $85.00 to [email protected] and put the specifics in the paypal notes.
$85.00 for (in essence) a new monitor - hell yes! Screw that bullshit of trying to locate the "correct" tube. I mentioned earlier - a person can/will go broke.

And correct me if I'm misinformed but people mentioning a nice "white" display. The darker the CRT pigment the better the display. So the lighter the screen the lesser picture clarity you'll get.
 
See that's the crappy part when someone starts talking about how easy it is to tube swap. Any monkey can swap hardware but locating a compatible tube is a completely different issue.
I gave up and took the easy route. Buy any damn 19" tv you want to, measure the imepedance of the yellow and green (what ever color is next to the yellow wire sometimes brown), count the number of pins on the end of the tube and go to paypal and send $85.00 to [email protected] and put the specifics in the paypal notes.
$85.00 for (in essence) a new monitor - hell yes! Screw that bullshit of trying to locate the "correct" tube. I mentioned earlier - a person can/will go broke.

And correct me if I'm misinformed but people mentioning a nice "white" display. The darker the CRT pigment the better the display. So the lighter the screen the lesser picture clarity you'll get.

I don't know about other areas but I have been given a ton of 13", 19", 25" and 27" TVs over the course of the last couple of years. People have been trying to get rid of them for years but until this year it cost a recycling fee. Now they can be recycled for free but they still have to be carried to a processing site. I offer free pick up and get the TV's for free. I steal the parts I want off of them (tube, neckboard, and/or wedges) button them back up and take them to the recycling center.
 
That brings me to my question.. Picked up a tube today 25" Orion G-A63ADG27X Is it compatible with any common chassis?
 
I couldn't figure out that chart at all.. Does that mean I don't have to switch the yoke? I have a k7000 good chassis already.. IF I had to, I do have a matching yoke on a poopy monitor but it would be nice to not have to switch the yoke out..

Well, according to the rejevenator set up guide that tube uses the CR23 adaptor. This makes it most likely compatable with the 4900, 4600, and K7000 series at the least...

http://www.bkprecision.com/support/downloads/pdfs/CRT_Setup_Chart.pdf
 
I couldn't figure out that chart at all.. Does that mean I don't have to switch the yoke? I have a k7000 good chassis already.. IF I had to, I do have a matching yoke on a poopy monitor but it would be nice to not have to switch the yoke out..


The chart is pretty easy to use, I just use the search function in Acrobat. The key is understanding that the G in front of your tube number is a revision and is not applicable to the chart.

You will still likely have to switch out the yoke. You can test the yoke on the tube and see if it matches the K7000 yoke. This is a simple resistance test usually from the red wire to the blue and then the other two wires. Do this on both yokes and if the values of the two yokes match, or are very close you may be able to get away with just swapping the chassis/neckboard. Otherwise you will have to swap the chassis, neckboard, and yoke while retaining the rings on the donor tube (you will have to remove the rings to swap the yokes but they need to be returned to the exact position they left). The sequence you will then need to follow in order to align the yoke is outlined in the K7000 manual.
 
So what range should the resistance be in? Under 10k?


The chart is pretty easy to use, I just use the search function in Acrobat. The key is understanding that the G in front of your tube number is a revision and is not applicable to the chart.

You will still likely have to switch out the yoke. You can test the yoke on the tube and see if it matches the K7000 yoke. This is a simple resistance test usually from the red wire to the blue and then the other two wires. Do this on both yokes and if the values of the two yokes match, or are very close you may be able to get away with just swapping the chassis/neckboard. Otherwise you will have to swap the chassis, neckboard, and yoke while retaining the rings on the donor tube (you will have to remove the rings to swap the yokes but they need to be returned to the exact position they left). The sequence you will then need to follow in order to align the yoke is outlined in the K7000 manual.
 
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Well, you smash it with a hammer and whichever one has the higher pitched shattering sound is the higher resistance one...:001_ssuprised:


Just kidding. You need a multimeter set to measure resistance or ohms. If you have different ohm scales on your meter use the one that is approximately the 100 ohm scale. If the reading is lower than a lower scale shift to the lower scale and retest. Otherwise - say you take your measurement and it displays 15 ohms. If your meter has a 20 ohm setting then you need to retest on the 20 ohm scale in order to get a more exact reading.


Of course you can just avoid all of the confusion with a meter that autoselects... These meters can be picked up at Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, even Walmart.
 
Sounds great.. and I understand..

What is the acceptable tolerance level to be considered a chasis swap only and not the yoke to?
 
There really is no acceptable tolerance level that I know of. Chances are pretty good that the yokes will be way off anyway. I'd say anything within an ohm on the higher range and within .5 ohms on the lower is safe to try.
 
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