CPS1 Saturday Night Slam Masters suicide repair help.

itobandito

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CPS1 Saturday Night Slam Masters suicide repair help.

Looking to see if anyone is up to helping me with my Saturday Night Slam Masters suicide repair. I followed the instructions on how to repair the board and everything looks done correctly to me but I still just get a black blank screen. All traces seemed cut that need to be and all wires soldered correctly. Anyone with experince with this willing to give the board a look or have suggestions?
 
Looking to see if anyone is up to helping me with my Saturday Night Slam Masters suicide repair. I followed the instructions on how to repair the board and everything looks done correctly to me but I still just get a black blank screen. All traces seemed cut that need to be and all wires soldered correctly. Anyone with experince with this willing to give the board a look or have suggestions?
I had mine done by Chad from arcadecup.com and he did a good job. I know that Slammasters is supposed to be tougher to revive compared to other pcb's but I was able to bring back a Punisher pcb.
 
Send it to me. I'll go over and just charge a few bucks plus return shipping. Unless you used the wrong chip like the last guy I helped out. Then I would have to charge parts. Let me know.
 
Check the speeds on the EPROMs you used. Not all -15 EPROMs will work.

I've had problems re-using the AMD 150ns 27C010 EPROMs. They would glitch out or just flat out not work. Use EPROMs that are 120ns in speed and it should work. If you're using slower ones that will be your problem.

Also, did you have to use different EPROMs? If your board had 16bit EPROMs and you used 8 bit (or vise versa) did you remove the old EPROMs that were to be replaced with the new ones?

Also, how did you mod the A board / Q-sound board? Did you use the 4002 IC or did you do the 2 chip method? Did you solder the power and ground pins properly?

When I do the 4002 IC, I scrape a power and ground trace on the Q Sound board, cut all the unused pins off the chip, tuck the power/ground pins under the chip, straighten out the pins being used for signals, then solder the power/ground pins straight to the power/ground traces - surface mount style.

RJ
 
Check the speeds on the EPROMs you used. Not all -15 EPROMs will work. I've had problems re-using the AMD 150ns 27C010 EPROMs. They would glitch out or just flat out not work. Use EPROMs that are 120ns in speed and it should work. If you're using slower ones that will be your problem..


Hmmmm will have to check this out, I don't recall the exact chip info will check it out when I get home

Also, did you have to use different EPROMs? If your board had 16bit EPROMs and you used 8 bit (or vise versa) did you remove the old EPROMs that were to be replaced with the new ones? .
I used a 27c040 for the qsound replacement as for the eprom 23 I tried reprogramming the eprom that was in it's place but it would not verify so I used the eprom # that was printed on the actual PCB in that spot that I had from another capcom board and it burned and verifyied correctly.

Also, how did you mod the A board / Q-sound board? Did you use the 4002 IC or did you do the 2 chip method? Did you solder the power and ground pins properly?
I went the 4002 method and got the voltage wired excatly how it was showing on the dead battery society website. Which looks to me like a very small fuse.

When I do the 4002 IC, I scrape a power and ground trace on the Q Sound board, cut all the unused pins off the chip, tuck the power/ground pins under the chip, straighten out the pins being used for signals, then solder the power/ground pins straight to the power/ground traces - surface mount style
RJ
 
I'm not referring to the Q-Sound board when talking about the 16 vs 8-bit EPROMs... I'm referring to the ones on the B board.

Also, if you replaced an EPROM with one from a different board, make SURE it's the proper type!!!

27C301 is NOT the same as a 27C010.

Capcom used both and you have to move jumpers around to make them work.
 
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