CPO adhesive not enough

oppolo

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What glue have collectors used when the replacement CPO doesn't stick to a prepared control panel? After a week or so the areas where there significant radius's the CPO has lifted from the panel. I even used heat to help shape it as I applied it.
 
What glue have collectors used when the replacement CPO doesn't stick to a prepared control panel? After a week or so the areas where there significant radius's the CPO has lifted from the panel. I even used heat to help shape it as I applied it.

3M #80 adhesive spray. Has the right amount of tackiness. Just dont spray it too heavily or it will bulge underneath. Practice spraying on a piece of cardbord til you get it right.

I get mine at Home Depot
 
I've experimented with clear finger nail polish. It's ok, but doesn't adhere quickly

lately ive used a loc tite product called stick n seal. It's a thiker adhesive, but dries clear and does a good job. Also became tacky fairly quickly
 
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Contact cement works great, you can brush it on and rub off the excess after it dries. No glue overspray.
 
I hope that this thread gets much bigger as I always had failures with applying NOS overlays. I hope to see some proven/successful application notes from others.

I used all the 3M #77, #80, #9x and they are failed in some spots like at extreme CP curves (like on a Mappy for example). One operator once told me that they used to use Carpet glue. He said that, together with a few minutes of heavy rubbing on the CP with a rag, made some good heat to glue it really well. Good luck.
 
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3M #80 adhesive spray. Has the right amount of tackiness. Just dont spray it too heavily or it will bulge underneath. Practice spraying on a piece of cardbord til you get it right.

I get mine at Home Depot

Yup that's right. The #77 and/or # 80. That stuff works great. Even is used for holding pool table cloth.
 
If the glue is simply dried out then obviously you'll need to apply some type of adhesive..but if its just a case of the overlay lifting and not sticking to the high tension areas... I've had pretty good luck applying the overlay with backing still applied:D with some clamps first for a few weeks to allow it to conform to the shape of the control panel..then I actually apply the cpo and then keep it clamped for a week or two...when I've taken this approach the overlays seem to stay in place because you allowed the glue to really take hold with the help of the clamps. I purchased a bunch really cheap...at a dollar store..they are small and great to use on edges of control panels..the type that you just squeeze with your hands to use.

You have to watch heat because in the short term it will help a cpo conform to a bend..in long term its going to actually speed up the cracking process that is inevitable anyway because your stretching the overlay when heating it. Patience will yield the best results.
 
I've had pretty good luck applying the overlay with backing still applied:D with some clamps first for a few weeks to allow it to conform to the shape of the control panel..then I actually apply the cpo and then keep it clamped for a week or two...when I've taken this approach the overlays seem to stay in place because you allowed the glue to really take hold with the help of the clamps.

What bothers me about this is that when they first made the machine in the factory, they did not have the time to do this of course. And yet, I never saw a factory applied overlay lift off or have any kind of bubble or bulge....
 
This is true..but keep in mind the overlays were brand new at that point...your not dealing with older glue and metal control panels that are also brand new and completely clean for application..plus I'm sure they had refined methods for making sure the overlays went on perfect..I'm sure they had ones get messed up..but your never seeing them because of quality control and just replacing it with new one......an option you don't have when your dealing with NOS pieces or expensive reproductions..

Kind of similar to Atari's method for applying the vinyl to the cabinets and silkscreening right onto the cab....your never going to match those methods so you have to improvise with less expensive methods that take more time.
 
I used the 3M 77 spray adhesive as well as Sprayon brand RTV clear silicone sealant.The CPO's not going anywhere.
 
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