FS Parts: CP harness adapter (for Gravitar PCB in Space Duel cab) - $55 shipped

andrewb

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CP harness adapter (for Gravitar PCB in Space Duel cab) - $55 shipped

I built up a couple of CP adapters, which allow you to play Gravitar in a Space Duel cab (assuming you also have a Gravitar PCB).

I needed to make one of these, so I bought enough parts to make a few extras while I was at it. If you have a Space Duel cab, you can easily convert to Gravitar by swapping game boards, and installing one of these under the CP, which adapts the Space Duel CP pinout to that expected by the Gravitar board.

This adapter is wired to enable using the left (green) set of Space Duel controls. (It's possible to build one that lets you use the right side instead, but I find the left side to feel more natural.)

These are built EXTREMELY well. I use 20AWG fine stranded silicone wire, which is very supple and flexible. I also crimp AND tack solder each connection, on both ends, so the wires will not pull out. It takes me a couple of hours to make each one, and they are as nice as can possibly be. I have also tested them in my personal Space Duel cab.

$55 each shipped in the US. Int'l shipping extra. Two available. (First buyer gets pick of color.)

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Thanks. I should probably wait until I have a Gravitar pcb. :)
 
I also crimp AND tack solder each connection, on both ends, so the wires will not pull out.

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The whole point of stranded wire is that it's flexible.
Soldering crimped connections makes the wire brittle so they're far more likely to break off.
Datasheets for crimp connectors specifically warn against soldering them.
If you have to worry about them pulling out, you're using the wrong crimpers (which appears to be the case since the secondary crimp is wrapped around the insulation rather than biting into it).
 
The whole point of stranded wire is that it's flexible.
Soldering crimped connections makes the wire brittle so they're far more likely to break off.
Datasheets for crimp connectors specifically warn against soldering them.
If you have to worry about them pulling out, you're using the wrong crimpers (which appears to be the case since the secondary crimp is wrapped around the insulation rather than biting into it).

Yes, but not with the wire I use, and the way I solder them. I use ultra-high-strand-count silicone wire, and I only solder inside the end of the crimp, not up the wire. As you can see from the pics, I also zip tie the wires together, so they can't move enough to fatigue. Any flexure happens mostly in the middle of the wires, not at the crimps.

If you use a lower strand count wire, yes I agree fully. But this stuff (which I like because it's super supple) doesn't like to be grabbed by the crimp as much, and can loosen up, because it's so fine. (It has something like 60 or 80 strands, something crazy). But flowing a tiny bit of solder into the end of the crimp takes care of that. And yes, those pics were taken years ago, before I had a real crimper, which is why the insulation crimps don't look that great. But with the silicone insulation, they don't really bite the same way as plastic insulation anyway, because the insulation is so soft.

I build all of my test cables, fixtures, extension cables etc this way, and haven't had one break yet, in five years of regular use.
 
I had some of that wire and threw it away.
If the wires you're using can't hold a crimp then you're using the wrong wire for the application.


No, I'm just doing it a different way. I needed a wire that is more flexible and will not fatigue, as my cables get a lot of use, and I was tired of regular stranded wire not holding up (or being too stiff), as they will all break eventually where they flex the most. So I found a better solution, and it works. The 6100 extension cables I make the same way are AMAZING, and the first one I made is still great, after four years of weekly use. Whenever I bring it to a repair event or loan it out, people always say where did you get that, I want one.

Once I figured out how to use the silicone wire, I use it all over the place now. It's just a different animal than PVC insulated wire. (And you have to make sure you get the type with high conductor count, as there is also cheaper stuff that is mostly insulation, and has much less metal for any given gauge. That stuff is crap.)
 
This is verging on extraneous discussion...


I think the question of "does it work?" has been answered.

Additional updates to this thread should be along the lines of "I have a spare Gravitar pcb for sale. PM me for details." :)
 
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