Couple Quick Questions on Sanyo 20EZ Nintendo Audio Board/Bad solder joints

Parpunk

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Couple Quick Questions on Sanyo 20EZ Nintendo Audio Board/Bad solder joints

Hey guys i just did a full deluxe cap kit on the Sanyo 20EZ Monitor from my nintendo playchoice. Also did the Audio Board as well. Couple real quick Questions>

1. For one Bob included a cap for the audio board for position C378 however there isnt one on my board? Reason why? And should i put it on? Its just filled in solder spots? here's a pic>

100_0759.jpg


2. Next is under where some on the pin connectors plug in it looks like this underneath them>>

100_0749.jpg


100_0755.jpg


Big deep holes and to me looks like bad solder joints? Ive never ran into noticeable bad solder joints yet so i dont know what to look for. Should i fill these in with solder?

I saw some similar spots on the chassis underneath where connectors are pushed onto the pins and i haven't messed with them yet. I filled the bottome 3 holes to the left side on the audio board with solder like this>>

100_0758.jpg


Is this correct or should i suck the solder back out on the audio board?
 
Common to have big gaping solder holes like that for the posts. It's always a good idea to reflow post solder but filling them in isn't a necessity.
As far as the cap missing on the audio board, I'm not in fron of my machines to verify if that component is there or not. I would say if there was never one there then don;t install it. The audio board is gravy to remove if by chance it is needed which in your case I doubt it.
 
cool thanks, another newb question.

When you say the word "reflow" Does that mean to just add new solder to old to make a nice connection, or does it mean to completely remove/desolder all the old solder and put new there?
 
To each their own is the answer here. You can heat up the solder and technically it's reflowing. For me personally if I see a cold solder joint I always break out the trusty solder sucker (solder pult) and remove old and add new solder.
 
ok i see i always thought adding new to old, to become one, always seemed to work good.
 
I think if a person is using the good solder (lead without flux) then adding lead to lead no problem. But I've seen issues when attempting to add the new type of solder to the old. What ever works for people is the right answer here
 
I think if a person is using the good solder (lead without flux) then adding lead to lead no problem. But I've seen issues when attempting to add the new type of solder to the old. What ever works for people is the right answer here

this. I too just suck the old solder out and add new solder in cases where the solder joints look very shitty. otherwise in some cases you can get away with just re-melting it. you want it to have a hershey kiss kind of appearance, that's how you know you did it right. you don't want any gaps or anything of that nature.

I generally circle around the solder joint heating it up and touching the solder to it, and it just kind of does the rest. lol, bunch of little T-1000s if you will. :)

also yeah, it's a general rule, especially with monitors, that if there was no cap there to begin with, don't add one.

otherwise, for as few solder joints as there are, it might even be a good idea to touch them all up, not saying go crazy with sucking the old solder out, but just re-melt it all. unless it's overly dirty, then do what Deadly said. (and I guess me too)
 
Funny i have the same little pcb with c378 empty (from the factory), guess I will install it.
 
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