Corner Bondo Repair how to?

Jakobud

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On a cabinet I acquired recently, one of the top corners is pretty jacked up. I'm wondering what the best approach is to fixing it...

I've never done it before but I think that the bondo approach would be the best. Then route out the T-molding grooves.

But then what is the best method to matching the paint? Is it possible to match it really close? I'm not repainting the side as the original artwork is in good shape. Will it be really obvious that the top corner was painted?

Also, it's a Space Invaders Deluxe. Any clue on color codes for the side of the cabinet?

IMG_20121125_201757.jpg
 
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Cut a small sercion of that red out, take to a home improvement place and see if they can help you match it up. Id mask off the graphic and repaint down to it.

As far as the bondo goes, in your case reinstall a piece of junk t moulding to see where you edge should be and give you something to hole the bondo in place while it sets.. , hammer in a couple small trim nails for reinforcement(think rebar in concrete), use duct tape to hold the top edge bondo from spilling out, and cram in the bondo. THis will be easier if the cab is on its side.


Its been discussed here before let me see if i can dig some threads up...

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=186488&highlight=corner+repair
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=237204&highlight=bondo+corner

HERES SOME VIDS!!!







 
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cadi,
Thanks for posting the vids.

Edit: Although I think the music in the background is not a proper side-art-applying soundtrack.
 
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Automotive body filler is the way to go and Cadillac Man gave great advice. FWIW, here's the way we did it on a broken-corner DK:

Start Here:
http://pac-maniac.com/donkeykongrestoration_page2.html


Before:
dk006.jpg


Middle:
dk2008a.jpg


After:
dk2021.jpg


John, the auto body guy who did this work is very particular about the brand and type of body filler. Damned perfectionist! :) The repair is flawless and impossible to see.

If you want, I'll find out again what's best.
 
I don't know why people insist on using bondo for this. It's NOT STRONG ENOUGH.

You go to grab that one day and *poof* it's gone.

Use milliput. put some pins in the wood, and build it up with milliput. Some day, you'll thank me. LOL
 
I don't know why people insist on using bondo for this. It's NOT STRONG ENOUGH.

You go to grab that one day and *poof* it's gone.

Use milliput. put some pins in the wood, and build it up with milliput. Some day, you'll thank me. LOL


Do you have any links to pictures or examples of anyone using it? I've searched this whole forum for milliput and it looks like you're the only one that has recommended it. I've also searched on-line and haven't found much about it besides the manufacturer site or people using it on miniature models. It sounds good but I haven't seen any examples of anyone using it on their projects requiring wood repair or large wood repairs. Give us some links so we can see some pictures or testimonials about it.
 
I'm pretty sure the long term success of using "bondo" depends on the bondo. This stuff John used is very pricy and was REALLY stuck. Of course, nothing is as good as the original wood, but then again, it chunked out too, right?
 
That's not a load bearing area...regular Bondo will be fine. I also wouldn't mess round with cutting out a chunk and replacing it with a piece of wood. Although its a very good recommendation for an area that needs alot of reinforcement, I think it'll be overkill. You have just a few layers of wood missing with half the t-molding channel still remaining, so you have good support. You may want to nail in a few tiny picture hanging nails or something to give you a little added retention, but Bondo should be fine.
 
I went to Rockler Woodworking and they suggested a product where you mix two parts of resin with one part hardener. I will check the name of the product tomorrow. I just applied it yesterday, I will sand it down this weekend.

The stuff I used is called PL Fix:

http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/reviews/pl-fix_2-part-wood-repair-kit.html

I think it is just some more over-priced epoxy.

Do you have any links to pictures or examples of anyone using it? I've searched this whole forum for milliput and it looks like you're the only one that has recommended it. I've also searched on-line and haven't found much about it besides the manufacturer site or people using it on miniature models. It sounds good but I haven't seen any examples of anyone using it on their projects requiring wood repair or large wood repairs. Give us some links so we can see some pictures or testimonials about it.

Yeah, after he mentioned it in my thread I searched also and found little.

I think tmntfreak is the Milliput CEO. :D

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
I think it is just some more over-priced epoxy.



Yeah, after he mentioned it in my thread I searched also and found little.

I think tmntfreak is the Milliput CEO. :D

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Nope, just passing on the info. I use it for prop building, and I can tell you, it hardens like rock. I've also used bondo in prop building, and I'm telling you, it isn't as strong as you think it is. It's not meant for building up edges like that. It's used for removing imperfections in flat areas such as cars. There isn't people using milliput on their cabs, because no one obviously knows about it. Try it, it's cheap. You'll see how well it works.
 
Nope, just passing on the info. I use it for prop building, and I can tell you, it hardens like rock. I've also used bondo in prop building, and I'm telling you, it isn't as strong as you think it is. It's not meant for building up edges like that. It's used for removing imperfections in flat areas such as cars. There isn't people using milliput on their cabs, because no one obviously knows about it. Try it, it's cheap. You'll see how well it works.

I'll have to try it on another restore I do. Does it seem like it bonds pretty well to a chipped up MDF?
 
Automotive body filler is the way to go and Cadillac Man gave great advice. FWIW, here's the way we did it on a broken-corner DK:

Start Here:
http://pac-maniac.com/donkeykongrestoration_page2.html


Before:
dk006.jpg


Middle:
dk2008a.jpg


After:
dk2021.jpg


John, the auto body guy who did this work is very particular about the brand and type of body filler. Damned perfectionist! :) The repair is flawless and impossible to see.

If you want, I'll find out again what's best.

YEah bondo brand bondo sucks ass. Its O,.k. but legit repair shop proifessional brands like evercoat work much better/easier to work with.

I also prefer automotive grade paint but thats just my personal opinion.

As far as sandin goes.. a frickin air powred da sander saves A LOT of time
 
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YEah bondo brand bondo sucks ass. Its O,.k. but legit repair shop proifessional brands like evercoat work much better/easier to work with.

I also prefer automotive grade paint but thats just my personal opinion.

As far as sandin goes.. a frickin air powred da sander saves A LOT of time

Yeah, Evercoat is definitely the best. I used Formula 27 on my first DK cabinet restoration. If the temperature cycling from seasonal changes had not of popped the cover on the can I had resulting in it hardening up I'd be using that instead.

I'm trying to figure out what to do about a 1/2" square piece of veneer that peeled off of the bottom corner of a cabinet I'm working on now.

Just to try, I filled it with Elmers Wood Filler (which is garbage, so don't buy it), but it didn't survive the kick test. (See below). They don't make plywood like they used to or I wouldn't have top deal with these problems.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

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Yeah, Evercoat is definitely the best. I used Formula 27 on my first DK cabinet restoration. If the temperature cycling from seasonal changes had not of popped the cover on the can I had resulting in it hardening up I'd be using that instead.

I'm trying to figure out what to do about a 1/2" square piece of veneer that peeled off of the bottom corner of a cabinet I'm working on now.

Just to try, I filled it with Elmers Wood Filler (which is garbage, so don't buy it), but it didn't survive the kick test. (See below). They don't make plywood like they used to or I wouldn't have top deal with these problems.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Have you ever used this?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...eyword=wood+filler&storeId=10051#.ULhGD9dRjao
 
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